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Can’t say I’ve ever or ever will add anything to my oil if that’s what this post is about. But if it’s about additives in general, Gumout’s Multi-system tune-up did something positive to my engine after trying it 280,000 miles in. Another can dump in after 5k more miles and it wasn’t as effective but certainly didn’t hurt anything. I’m going by feel. Gumout’s Regane High Mileage didn’t do jack shit.
1986 Cadillac Deville. That beauty took me and my friends off-roading to our backwoods hangout so many times. The exhaust pipes and cat were troopers, most of the time 😆
I’ve noticed this big time after getting back into this audio awesomeness. Advertised gauge vs the true AWG rating are two separate entities. Buyer beware and if you can, read reviews if purchasing online, or compare wire thickness between different brands in person if buying locally. It can possibly save your car, or Life!
Your caps blew my eyeballs out and I couldn’t read the entire thread, but if you replace the EGR valve, I’m 80% sure your problems will disappear. I think RockAuto has an ACDelco for your gen for under $30 and you could easily replace it yourself. Good luck.
Oil ahh, a lubrication issue. No seriously tho, a high mileage conventional oil will do the dirty deed to keep her healthy and hard. Blends are so inexpensive these days, there’s almost no reason not to use them out of the gate if you bought a new Camry, for eg, instead of wasting money on full synthetic or risking a 100% conventional oil that will never hurt your engine anyway and… Sarcasm is playing a part here. If your engine isn’t restricted to full synthetic by the book, you’re open to experiment.
Thanks Suzuki! I finally took out the driver and it looks like a dual coil but the leads to the speaker have been soldered so it might just be a single coil? I shoe goo’d the foam tears and it sealed nicely and flexes pretty well surprisingly with finger pushes. I might have some free goodies (amp(s)) coming my way to test it soon so I’ll give you an update. However, even if a monoblock class D amp finds me, I’ll probably keep my setup at 4 ohms sealed. You brought me into another avenue of reading with 2 and more, pushing a 1ohm sub. Much to learn.
I agree. When your vehicle has seen its demise, it’s probably better off to let it go and start a fresh. Or, if your vehicle’s driver can no longer use their signals while changing lanes or turning, then maybe they should just stop driving all together.
Congrats on the 200k+ mileage. Please don’t ever dump seafoam anywhere near your tanks again if you’d like to keep this car.
You didn’t mention your idling issue under what outside temperature. In cold weather, the IAC valve could be sticky, but it’s summer…highly doubtful.
I forgot if you scanned a code. Anyway, my first thought was a vacuum leak somewhere, but maybe it’s something as simple to replace the ERG valve. And it wouldn’t hurt to pull that IAC, clean her, then reassemble. Maybe you’ll find a rubber line that wasn’t on their as much as it should have been. Before throwing time and too much energy, start your car, open the hood, then use your ear to hear something different. Vehicles are like relationships… there’s a lot of listening to figure out problems so it works. Good luck.
GM in my experience have had some finicky transmission issues for many years, both older 2000s and newer 2017s. If you know the brake calipers aren’t sticking and your oils both in the engine and trans/diff look clean, it could possibly be how your car was intentionally manufactured off the line. I wouldn’t worry about it.
Had no idea was an FSM was before I googled it. The Haynes seems to be alright for torque application up to 2016 Camrys. The Service Manuals hardly update either to be honest although I have no proof to back that up. I bet a lug on a 15-16″ Camry wheel is still 76 lbs. ft.
I’m not knowledge enough to know this, but I’m guessing a compression test doesn’t test spark plug health accurately. The IACV doesn’t really stick during warmer temps unless you’re unlucky. Did you take it out completely and clean/oil it the proper way? Another thing I was thinking of is replacing the fuel filter.
I wouldn’t worry about the “pull” quite yet. Tires have manufacture dates on the side of them, so if you bought it used and has near the same tread as your other, it could still be a good buy and match for your car. I’d make sure the used tire isn’t too old. On the side of the tire you’ll see DOT… Follow Tire Rack’s date system:
e.g. DOT U2LL • LMLR5107 – the last two digits are the year…’07
Anyway, a mismatch in tread wear could cause a FWD wheel alignment issue, and a mismatch in tread grooves could cause a slight drift or grip. I personally wouldn’t spring for a new tire if the tire date checks out unless I’m vibrating and have a hard time controlling my vehicle.
I think [College Man] was talking about how the caliper resets, instead of the pins. You can do a braking test if you want. Get up to speed on a freeway for 5-10 minutes, then find an exit that’s smooth and fairly level. Start braking with hands off the wheel.
Aside from that simple test, don’t think for a minute that any shop will treat your vehicle as well as one would if one owned that vehicle.
I’d safely assume that if you went back to that same AutoZone, asked them for an OBDII scan (which is complimentary), they’d print out the pulled code for you. If your wheel bearings are bad, that probably means you, or the previous owner, was off-roading with a convertible Mustang. That would be some fun sheet!