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[quote=”jonsey1886″ post=175123]Don’t forget to change the fuel filter, I personally use one from Wix also a 3x drain & refill on the transmission using HONDA ATF/MTF….not generic import fluid.[/quote]
Castrol’s Import Multi-Vehicle (IMV) trans oil is pretty slick on the foreign builds to be honest. I’ve had Supertech in my trans for the summer, but IMV has kept my differential top notch with little torque suffering even during 115ºF days.
An aftermarket cap and rotor will be fine on a Honda. The Iridium IXs are useless on that vehicle because they’re aimed for performance, not longevity and ideal resistance. Don’t forget the trans/diff oil and belts check during the tune-up. Good luck with the rotor screw. Vice grip on the head sounds like a good idea instead of hammering it 😆
Throwing this out there, but braking at speeds at that even on a smooth road could be a pulsation caused by your tires or some front end suspension looseness. How new are your tires? I still wouldn’t rule out the brake components tho.
Yeah, the idea was to keep the board as is so I didn’t have to hassle through a write-up of how everything came off and back together while dealing with the part # that probably doesn’t exist anymore. I do have a plan tho. I’m going to break off the other piece of metal from the board then solder both broken pieces to the speaker connector. Then somehow solder that piece back to the board. The biggest risk is getting that connection nice and tight so it still maintains its original electrical conductivity (which it probably won’t).
I’ve never had much luck with the lithium grease spray for some reason. Silicon paste works wonders but expensive (silicon spray might work too). And for a more smelly gunk, a thin layer of general multi-purpose grease should do the trick.
It looks like your pads are contacting the rotor evenly if all 4 pads are making the same marking but I wouldn’t let that slide in the longterm. Brake pads, under my experience should leave a very small deposit (bed-in material) on the rotor to help surface to surface contact. When that deposit gets thicker and thicker, it leads to excessive runoff (or warping) on the rotor and your initial problem of pulsation will return and your stoping power will lessen. Your problem might be different than mine, but I’d check to see if you have any oil leaks or more so, grease spitting out from a slightly torn CV boot or Ball Joint. Oil will usually burn off the rotor over time, but grease can saturate the top layer of the Brake Pad and essentially transfer onto the rotor over and over again. I’m actually surprised Eric has never touched on this issue since greaseable BJs are very accepted in today’s world. We all have overfilled them at least once or 10 times.
since the driver’s side window opens now, that eliminates the grounding issue. The wiring schematics diagram in the front is way too much for me to hold interest in. Especially when in person looking at all the blue non-labled wires that mean essentially nothing to me other than yes, there’s current flowing. This might remain a mystery or maybe I’ll dive deeper to figure out this anomaly.
Great stuff, thanks! HF tools aren’t as bad as the reputation some people give them. Of course there’s going to be some duds, but those Made In China Pittsburgs are usually lifetime warrantied and stand up to some extreme measures. Definitely the place to shop for the DIYer with a thinner wallet/purse.
Nice. The driver’s side after wiggling the wires/harness is working now. The passenger side however is still not responding. By the way, my back two window regulators (wire) broke years ago so I can’t test the rear. Nice call on the wiggling for the driver’s side.
This might be dumb but maybe there’s water instead of anti-freeze in your system. There’s a cheap probe to buy that can check the thermal resistance of your liquid. I doubt the OP will respond with an update.
This has been a touchy subject for me and working with provider I finally got my deductible down to $0 in case of theft. As for comprehensive and aftermarket parts. Most established insurance companies have a division or contract for these needs and sometimes proof of product (s/n) is all that’s needed. However, when I made a claim, they wanted the receipts which I was able to dig up from the graveyard. Best thing you can do without a receipt is take photos of your parts installed (before collision or theft obv) and the s/n or product code. Take note of a roundabout time when you purchased these parts, then basically show your insurance provider these details in case of mishap. Insurance companies can be deceiving and certainly tricky with their terms, but if you’ve developed a relationship with them over time, usually an agent can work with what you have. Appraising your upgrades/replacements will also be proof of purchase and a more secure proof for reimbursement. You ask a tough question to be honest.
the boot was almost completely torn but the 12+ wires looked in good shape. Followed it to the fuse box and although dirty, everything looked intact. I wonder if one of the wires (maybe the ground?) when stretched opening the door isn’t making good enough contact. I didn’t see anything pinched or frayed. poop
Was wondering why they attached like that and if they worked. I rigged up a test connection and it turned out to be that broken output. So happy and pumped to get this up and running. Hopefully these photos attach. Ohh, it would help to “Insert” them into the message. Wow, brain fart.
Funny you bring this up because every Walmart around me stopped selling Purolator oil filters many months ago. I wonder if Walmart contracted with Purolator to re-brand to their Super-Tech label. I’ve never seen a ST oil filter but will look next time *curious*. As far as oil filters go, there’s no reason to buy $8-$15 filters for a daily driver even if you’re running synthetic. Air quality isn’t THAT terrible on Earth.
