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It’s not starting because she knows you’re not going to use her blinkers – ever. One less pickup on the road making our freeways and highways safer.
This is an age-old question. Not sure what that means but it felt right. Listen, if you’re feeling pain or knots or discomfort of anykind on your best day doing an oil change, it’s time to move on and buy a new car. The joy and reward of completing an automotive task crumbles in comparison to your long-term health. Listen to your body and do what it speaks.
Google is the search engine of choice but there’s many others. AltaVista was a hot commodity but it might have shut down.
[quote=”nradonich” post=179987][quote=”college man” post=179913]When you reset the calipers did you open the bleed screw or push everything back to the master?
If you pushed everything back you may have damaged the masters seals.[/quote]Things seem okay once I get driving. As I mentioned earlier, some Toyota folks say that the ABS will bleed the extra pressure if you hit the pedal hard while at a stop, therefore it will sink pretty far.
Even still, thinking I may replace the hoses in the near future.[/quote]
ABS aside, I believe older Toyota was fairly consistent with their brake pedal leniency especially in 3rd and 4th Gen Camrys. I’d bare bone the mats and take a quick measurement to see if the pedal’s in spec. You can eyeball it too or even stick your foot under the pedal at full stop to feel the clearance. Toyota/Lexus had and still has forgiving brake resistance that allows the driver to ease into a stop rather than punch it. Check the pedal to ground clearance and get back to us.
This is complicated being that it’s your gas tank. I’d jump all hoses and clamps and find a rigged steel part to hook up. I might have interpreted it wrong. Hoses can be a secure connection. You’re only into this car for another 2 years? Hoses for the win.
Dont be worried about an inspection. If gas is rotating in the system without compression leaks, you’re golden. Hoses and clamps brotha.
[quote=”AlexanderB” post=178915]
Soapy water probably isn’t good for the internal components of the injector, I wouldn’t recommend that.[/quote]Just meant with the injector out. Cleans the debrism oil and blah off.
I didn’t read your second to last post cause of time constraints but will eventually. I can’t imagine WD-40 igniting under that circumstance. i seriously don’t have a can of WD-40 in my apartment for a flame test, but it’s high degree stuff. In between a splash shied and brakes? No problem. No clue where you’re starting because, as you’ve explained, there’s some issues even minor that are happening. Be back Monday with an intelligent comment.
It’ll be safe. I can’t reason why soapy water wouldn’t clean also. Carb cleaning is great to slash into the engine at startup. It got my rider mower running a few times until it didn’t work anymore.
500 bones with 170 miles? You stole that deal because it’s a beaut. Nice job and continue to get really dirty!
HAHA. Love it. I can feel the time and work it goes into building something in which you’ve built. Sort of a mini empire…
Boy do I wish you’d still be working out of your garage tho. My car would be in your hands, with restrictions, every week at $30/hr labor rate. This $99+ is ridiculous tho. Here in the Phoenix area, certain shops are around the $99 mark while the dealerships are steadyfast on $97. It’s those rare, privately owned places that do work under the average, and do it well by the way, that draw the attention of the most observed ‘shopper’. There’s a lot of respect, in my opinion, when a shop can carry an affordable labor cost and do the job correctly, than a shop that charges exorbitant labor dollars and half-ass work while selling stuff that doesn’t need to be sold. I’d be more than happy to pay the premium price for a part at a shop that does quality work with labor costs around $65-$70 than a shop that charges $99+ for labor.Unfortunately, the technicians/mechanics get maybe half that, but the lower the labor rate, with a good reputation, the more the clientele. My hometown shop still flat rates at $68/hr and I don’t know how they do it. But they’re the best in town. Here in Phoenix, it’s hard-pressed to find anyone reputable below $95. Tough market. And why I’ll spend 5 hours changing a control arm for $75 in my garage vs $300 at a shop.
That was a pleasure to read 🙂 Just for the record, I’ve had good results with the Gumout multi-system tune up. Not a monthly additive, but seemed to condition some relatively small issues I was having with my engine before an oil change. Glad you got your problem solved. And by the way, I forgot about the Toyota Echo! The Nissan Versa is probably happy Toyota pulled that from their line, woot woot :cheer:
[quote=”GeneralDisorder” post=178864]60%? LOL.
We are lucky to make 20% on dealer parts. Aftermarket depends. Performance parts can be as high as 35-40% or as low as 0%. 15% is not unusual if you intend to compete with online retailers. Depends on the part whether I compete with online pricing (from my own wholesaler :angry: ) or not.
Aftermarket repair parts on the other hand…. now that sometimes lucrative. It’s almost never less than 100% and often it’s 200-300%.
Just the way it is fellas. We gotta eat and the day we don’t pay our bills we all go home for good and there’s no one to help you when your car breaks.
Rick[/quote]
haha, did I throw that markup too low? Lots of variables on parts when it comes to genuine vs aftermarket. I can’t imagine running a shop, buying a part from my wholesaler only to up price it 100%+ fold to the consumer. But like you said. Ya gotta eat.
Nice diagnosis on the rim by switching to a spare. Not a rim problem.
Strap on some gardening gloves and grab onto the control arms on that side and exert major arm muscle into trying to move them while car is on the ground. If you find some play in movement, that’s most likely the issue. Worn bushing.Use can also use the jack that came with your car to jack up that side, then rock those control arms back and forth by hand. Keep your parking brake on and don’t go completely under the backside just incase the jack fails. We don’t want any crushed skulls during a diagnosis =)
Let us know your results.
There’s so many threads on this over the internet it’s unbelievable and I think I can give you the straight answer. Misaligned exhaust system.
To make matters worse, like you said, a heat shield somewhere is most likely rattling. Solution?
1. Get under the vehicle and wiggle every shield starting from the pipe coming from the manifold. I bet that’s the issue…broken bracket.
2. Buy a couple brake hose clamp thingies from Napa. They’re like two bucks a pop. Super cheap. Fasten that shield right up again.
3. While you’re under the car, wiggle and jiggle the entire exhaust starting in front of the cat converter then move toward the muffler. There should be hangers where those pipes attach to the body. Inspect them for cracks or decaying material. If there’s a dead mouse, grasshopper or large insect fried up against any pipe or component, don’t eat it. It probably has lost its nutritional value by now.Seriously tho, just flex your entire exhaust system by hand and see if the rattle goes away. If it does, it will return but you at least know the issue. Fun times!