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[quote=”relative4″ post=185599]A DMM w/ Hz would be better.[/quote]
Would that run me under $10? I could at least use that for some home and car audio measurements for educational purposes :cheer:
It sounds silly and logically doesn’t make sense, but by pure coincidence your power steering reservoir might be low. Just a thought.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=184299]http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=radiator&ukey_make=1060&ukey_model=15428&ukey_trimLevel=0&ukey_driveLine=6670&modelYear=1993&ukey_category=0
Karl[/quote]
Thanks Karl. That was the first schematic I looked at after this happened and I’m honestly still confused. I’m assuming they’re water by-pass hose No.2 and No.3. I’m just going to yank them tomorrow morning and compare at a shop. I’m probably overlooking the simplicity of this.
I don’t know what to order/ask for. Rear coolant hoses from sending unit? They have a specific bend to them that makes them unique to the application and I can’t find the name of those two hoses for some reason.
A lot of the 2016 Yukons were equipped with Goodyear Assurance. I did a quick google and it’s looking in your price range with those, installed and balanced. Stick with Goodyear in Tampa for the Yukon. I’m in Arizona and they paved through our monsoon weather easily. Good luck!
Do all four power door locks work consistently when you press the lock/unlock button on the driver’s side door panel? Your bob might need a fresh battery.
[quote=”wk9k” post=182213]So would u just replace the rack or the rack and pump? I mean like why is it leaking in 2 different places on the rack, is there something up with the pressure or something?[/quote]
There’s a few o-rings in the pinion that keeps the fluid contained. College might have been suggesting that the debris eventually tore those seals that lead to your leakage but don’t be quick to replace the unit. Let it drain as you continue to refill and then introduce some stop-leak fluid to save the leak in the long run. I used a couple small stop leak bottles until my power steering stopped leaking. It was almost pouring out at one point. Here’s my recommendation if they still sell this (pic attached). It’ll probably take a couple refills to swell the rings but for me at least, it’s worked for just over 60k miles. Kinda scary to approach it this way, but if it works, it works. Maybe it will or won’t work for you but good luck!
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=182214]Sounds to me, from my personal experience, that your motor is starting to go.
The best thing you can do is try to catch it during a fault and verify that you have voltage and ground at the blower motor, at all speeds. If the motor has both, replacing the blower would be the next logical step.[/quote]
What I was thinking. Sometimes there’s mechanical failures and the resolution is simple. Replace it when it fails or until you can’t stand it anymore.
Not to be a snob, but you probably should have exclusively bled your front end. As long as the master cylinder cap was off (for pressure reasons), you’re probably good to go after your fluid change. When you change your calipers or open the front brake bleeder screw, it doesn’t POUR out like crazy. But yes, air could be introduced upon reassembly if it’s careless. I wouldn’t worry about your master cylinder as long as it’s topped off. I bet your brakes feel great.
Just skimmed the 4 pages and overlooked Eric’s video until this weekend. However I didn’t see many people mention happiness.
Being happy–in my opinion–is the be-all and end-all to living life to its fullest regardless of monetary values. Whether that’s found through a hobby or work or relationship or other. I firmly believe there’s a characteristic value in everyone’s soul and livelihood that defines each of us. And to be rich, or well-off, would probably make that easier for most. But with great reward comes hardship. And to each their own.
If you’ve driven consistently normal since purchase, I’d recommend swapping your oil filter for a new one then let her rip with the trailer. Ah, the “break-in’ period.
Edit: Hockeyclark: For some reason I never saw a break-in period in my ’93 Camry’s manual. Time to re-read?
I’m not much help past 4th gen Camrys but you have an advantage being it’s your co-worker as long as he/she’s honest.
Has it been in an accident?
How were your driving habits?
Did you do manufacturer recommended oil change intervals?You can always CARFAX the VIN to see the [recorded] maintenance.
And as always, check Toyota’s website for recalls on the ‘faulty’ head bolts.In my network, there’s very few to zero 2003 Camrys for sale. This might be a good thing. I’d say pass.
I’d imagine it’s the pads repositioning themselves in the bracket which is normal but annoying. You can try greasing/ungreasing some contacts and see if it helps. Here’s some ideas I’ve done to stop my clicks.
If you have anti-squeal shims on your pads and have lube on them, wipe the lube off and clean the outside of the caliper piston.
If no anti-squeal shims, clean the backs and the piston exterior and rub a little bit of anti-seize on the back of the pad.
Clean the caliper mounting bracket hardware and pads that come in contact with, then re-apply (goop on moderately) some anti-seize to the friction points only.She probably just needs a nice cleaning and re-lube for that clicking to subside for a few months. Good luck!
This topic’s been in the back of my head for a few days since my braking issue is still wishy washy. My first after-first-post-on-this-topic thought was your drums might need to be adjusted tighter, but then I saw college man hit the nail on the head and you said they’re adjusted – bummer.
I’m checking out the Haynes for the 3rd Gen (92-96) and it reads as follows:
Brake pedal
Freeplay 1/32 to 1/4 inch
Free height 5-3/4 inches
Brake light switch clearance 1/32 to 3/32 inch
Pedal reserve height 2-3/4 inchesProbably a moot question about the drums, but how many clicks does it take to secure the parking brake? Lever-type should be 5 to 8 and Pedal-type should be 3-6. The reason I ask is because this is a surefire way of determining if your drums are relatively adjusted accordingly as long as the cable is in good shape.
Side-note: I adjusted my rear drums pretty tight (overkill) one morning for a week – 1-2 clicks on the lever-type parking brake and I wasn’t moving – and my braking experience was exceptional! Downfall, increased freeway cruising speed vibrations and my MPG decreased. It was for personal reasons and made me aware of how important the rear brake adjustment really is. Anywho, did you figure out what’s up?