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If Toyota made Corollas anything like the 3rd gen Camrys, a timing belt snap will be just that. Replacement with no damage anywhere. Have a toyota dealership diagnose it for free by telling them your timing belt broke and you need a replacement. If the diagnosis is different, opt to take it somewhere else and thank them for their service. Auto Groups make a lot of money and are customer support driven.
And I thought my rotors were bad :whistle:
Bring it back to the place you bought the car. If it’s a dealership, they’re liable and responsible.
Thanks for replying nightflyr. These pads are pretty darn new and they’ve finally started grabbing my old rotors I put back on 6 days ago. Low and behold, the rotors caught grease again and are showing the same characteristics that my new rotors did. I’m replacing both splash shields ASAP and before I install the new rotors I took off, I’m essentially draining the ball joints (moog). This has been a nightmare.
As far as embedded grease on ceramic pads go. Is it safe to aggressively hand sand the top layer of the pads then move to a fine grit to finish? I’m only asking this prep question because I’m attempting to rule out braking vibration issues at certain speeds before I tackle intermittent vibration issues without braking between 65-95mph.
That’s a cool looking vehicle you have and congrats on the mileage. I’m not familiar with the older stuff, but compared to my past problem around 55-65mph under load (93 camry – auto), it was a transmission issue that ended up seizing 15k miles later. I had no noise and no symptoms other than vibration that 3 different shops never diagnosed correctly. It might be worth sticking a camera into the trans to see how everything looks. Someone with more experience can help you better than me.
Summer, I’m curious because my differential is independent from my trans fluid. First drain was BLACK Gook, basically expired nutella just dripping down. The metal shavings on the magnetic bolt end was a half an inch tall. I had no idea what I was looking for. Since then I’ve drained and flushed my differential 3 times and the last it came out pink with just a tiny build up of shavings on that plug. Any recommendations on how to check out the integrity of my diff or do I need to find a stethoscope?
Eric, awesome video with well-attached demonstrations. Easily the best explanation on caster I’ve seen or had explained to me. Nice shout out to ChrisFix too during today’s broadcast. Didn’t know you two were pals!
I was wondering if front wheel alignment issues could possibly be the culprit of pulsations at 15mph – 7mph while braking from speeds of 30mph or higher with tight suspension. I’m keepin’ dirty brotha!
I have no idea how to quote someone’s post.
Jasonw1178:
I’ve often contemplated whether or not changing the fluid after mine started to slip would have solved the problem. My original trans went 3 months of slightly slipping to one day extremely bad, then that day it was done. Second time my trans failed, it seized on me going 45mph and it felt like I locked my brakes to an almost skid. Looking back on both those scenarios led me to sludge. The first, catastrophic gear wear down, and the second, a dried up differential that seized from no fluid or sludge in the diff and trans.Considering the OP doesn’t have irregular vibrations under certain load or doesn’t have slippage… why would a non-invasive way of changing the fluid affect the system. Like a drain and fill at the least. Or even a complete fluid “flush” and fill with quality oil. — DIY’er here.
If the fluid hasn’t been changed in 136,000 miles, you’re probably 100,000 past due for new oil.
You can perform an easy test to see what shape it’s in. Buy a quart of the cheapest fluid you can find according to your owner’s manual, locate the tranny dipstick on your car, pull it and compare your fluid to the new. Rub both yours and the one you bought on a white paper towel next to each other then compare. If they’re similar, I’d say you’re good to go. If they’re radically different in color then it’s time to change. Comparing smell is also a good indicator. Burnt = needs new.
Let us know your results.
No unusual heating of the wheel. I’m fairly certain the piston and bracket are moving freely. Interesting about overheating the rotors which lead me to topics on scorched rotors. The summer here is ridiculously hot and I did slam on my pedal a couple times on the highway. Thanks for the links and further info. Got some ideas on what I’m doing next.
I see no application for this type of tool in the automotive industry. However, if home repair calls for a specific torque on a screwy nutty bolt under the sink or piano, it might come in handy for ease of access.
Apologies for bringing up the old thread. I was hoping the problem would have solved itself over time, but unfortunately it’s gotten a little funkier. Today I found time to dive into the assembly. Pins were moving freely and pad wear seemed normal. When I initially switched to new pads/rotors, both pistons were easy to compress. I completely forgot to mention one crucial mod I had to do to the pads when I installed them. They were too long! To compensate, I slowly filed down the tops and bottoms of all or most to fit into the bracket. They then moved freely as normal…or what I thought is normal. Lug nuts are always torqued to spec.
My braking power seems safe in risky situations, but I believe I should be benefiting more from this setup so here’s my questions if anyone has time.
1 – Could filing down the pad offset the way it’s structurally intended to work? Filing was in millimeters.
2 – Would the system benefit with new fluid? It’s more than likely past its maintenance schedule, but I can’t confirm with my paper trail.
3 – If not rust, is the brown build-up residue from the pad not coming into contact like the rest of the pad?
4 – Is there a possibility of this 4-pad batch being defective?
5 – Should I be worrying about this or am I expecting too much from an older car?Any advice or questions would be greatly appreciated. Btw, Evil-i, I know exactly what you’re talking about with power washing. I never blast my dying exterior with the hose too close, but once I get to my wheels, I get way too close. The other day I did this and it will be the last time!
Driver’s Side:
Passenger’s Side:
ps. Forgot to mention that the passenger’s side lower caliper pin is missing the bushing in the rivet end.
Took me 5 years to re-invest after my setup got stolen so I went cheap then tuned everything.
Headunit: JVC KD-R330
Front: Old school Memphis oversized 6″ 3-way (not stolen)
Rear: JBL 6 1/2 somethings
Sub (newest addition): Dual SBP8A Bandpass 8″ w/built-in amp.It thumps in my camry with a backseat down.
