Forum Replies Created
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JayMann07, I really like your idea with the 2×4 against the edge of the rim then taking some serious blows around the wheel at different points. Assuming the 2×4 isn’t oak but rather pine (or a softwood 2×4), it should eventually dislodge without affecting the hub and other. Thinking outside the box…Something else I’d try if I was still in the snowbelt: Pour a bucket full of hot, steaming water over the contact points then let it rip. The metal might expand just enough to get a slight budge after a solid *smack*. Road salt sucks.
Thought for sure a new thermostat would have solved it. You can pre-test those in a boiling pan of water if you’re weary about its functionality. Bleeding the system shouldn’t be a problem if your overflow tank release hose is clean. It should ‘burp’ after some light driving at operating temperature. The only thing I can think of other than replacing the cap and doing a proper diy flush for that heater core is old or an incorrect mixture of fluid. How’d the radiator reservoir look when you took the cap off?
Top off your power steering fluid to the max line. Crank your wheel from left to right hard a few times while driving city speed. If it feels tight, you’re fine.
I doubt the car manufacturers are calling bullshit on the type of oil. Current day it’s synthetic because lazy ass joe or jane doesn’t want their light going on after 3500 miles and the dealership can charge $80 every 70k not to mention newer engines are probably designed for synthetic. Older cars that use dino have change intervals every 3-4k and we;re pumping 300 to 500k miles on an original engine with roughly the same HP and torque. Conventional oil is the way to go. Sythn is for the lazy who think their newer car is cool and want nothing to do with it. Just my opinion now that I’ve been dirty for years.
Had the same problem on my sedan years ago. I ghetto rigged the rod with a healthy layer of duct tape and it grabbed the blend door. Access was through the radio cluster but Ford never makes thing easy so it’s probably through the glove box. If you can hear slight ‘motor’ noise happening when you switch through controls, your motor is still healthy. Sounds like the teeth aren’t grabbing anymore, but I know less than jack about american-made.
1 part distilled vinegar to 10+ part very hot water for a 40 minute bath. I’m shocked to be honest. a 100% vinegar bath for an hour could probably get all the shit off the rotor without any abrasive means.
I appreciate the reply. Mineral spirits is a really good idea! Just got done soaking in watered down distilled vinegar for 40 minutes and the result is amazing.
It worked a little bit although it didn’t have a good reaction to the iron. The whole rotor rusted and was easily cleaned off with a dishwashing sponge. Vinegar next and final try.
This is really good to know for vibration issues that tire companies can’t resolve! In the future for your rack play, you can test it with two people. Steering wheel straight, hood open and car off, have someone move the steering wheel slightly left and right while you adore your fine rack in back of the engine block. If there’s a lot of play, it’s typically the insulator bushing gone bad. Thanks for the follow up!
Used Ajax for 30 minutes and still the same although the water turned yellow which is a good sign. Testing out a half a bottle of 91% rubbing alch and hydro peroxide with super hot water. Can’t imagine the results being different.
I’d also like to know the explanation behind combining different axle greases of a near chemical structure and how they effect each other. Still not on the bandwagon with your video about combining greases and how they’d fight themselves then lead to other problems. Torn outer CV boot and debating a clean, re-grease, then quickboot to save $120 + 4 hrs labor time.
Cleaning contacts might make the world of difference. Cheap solution, doesn’t take up too much time. Here’s a good thread to get things back to normal.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422772
Let us know if that works.
The flex fuels I’ve seen are mostly compact SUVs. Can a Yukon run on e85 yet? There’s no doubt in mind that these vehicles that are “eco-friendly” can handle refined gas under federal petroleum pollution law by running under your car’s manufacturer guidelines. I can’t see any detriment to mixing. Mix away until I hear different.
Calipers are fine. It was an odd request about the brake pads. I’ve read that some street racers “scuff” the pads on asphalt for better grip, but that’s a little extreme. I’m with you on running them down lightly and keeping them flat and even. I don’t know how ceramic pads absorb oil and grease, but by the look and feel, they’re hard as a rock so there’s no way they could absorb grease or oil unless they were porous which they’re not. Just looking for a cleaning agent that will get built up deposits off metal and restore glazed/greased-up pads without sanding. It’s not on the internet I’ll tell ya that.
