Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
It’s an oddity, but check your rack (steering rack and pinion). If you drive hard around turns or have gone over a lot of bumps, ya never know what’s happening with your steering system until you check it out.
city speed your tires are fine for years. freeway driving, you’re f*cked after 5000 miles if you rotate and drive fast.
With tires slanted to that extreme, it’s more a car being driven around town and/or ghettos. You make your mark. On the highway at 65, tires are getting chewed up. The funny part is, tires are so well built these days that the cheapest tire can hold up, but once it cracks in the middle. It’s done. 12k for a cheap buy. $40 tires.
This is peculiar because mine is doing the same thing in the front. Do you have vibrations above 65 to 73’ish mph? Weak struts should still support a relatively vertical alignment in theory, but they’d encourage inner and outer tire wear when cornering. This may sound utterly ridiculous, and I’m not sure how much beating your car has been through or how old it is, but I’m convinced that the frame of a car will stretch over time and throw many manufacturer specs off by a degree or more rendering that vehicle near its death (jk). I ran across this article on my car search last week and it was heart-wrenching.
TOYOTA RECALLS 1993 CAMRY DUE TO FACT THAT OWNERS REALLY SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT SOMETHING NEW BY NOW
“Tokyo — Saying it was simply time for drivers to move on, Toyota Motor Corp. issued a recall of its entire 1993 Camry model line Wednesday due to the fact that its owners really should have bought something new by now. “We understand that the 1993 Camry was tremendously dependable, but, honestly, there’s just no excuse for driving a 22-year-old car at this point,” said Toyota spokesman Haruki Kinoshita, adding that, with all the advances in automotive technology that have taken place, no one really had any business driving a vehicle for more than two decades. “We’re not saying you have to buy a new 2015 Camry or splurge on a flashy new hybrid, or even that your new car has to be a Toyota at all. But the bottom line is that you need to start fresh, however you choose to do so.” While Toyota is reportedly confining its recall to the 1993 Camry, it also issued a warning to owners of 1994 to 1998 models alerting them to the fact that they were really starting to push it.”
Reference here: http://www.theonion.com/In all seriousness. If your lower control arm bushings are good and it’s affecting tire wear, you can purchase cam bolt kits to correct camber. I think it looks cool as long as it drives cool.
I still haven’t figured out how to quote someone’s post on here like you have. I’ve hit “quote” and it didn’t embed the post into my reply like I expected. I’ll try again soon, or maybe it’s my browser. Hoping for some heat!
I was reaching out to find ways to test and see if the sensor was functional and since it showed numbers, I can safely assume it’s working fine. I appreciate the feedback and I learned some from this. Thanks guys!
Negligible except most people aren’t driving to a dealership when AZ or AA is a few blocks away. Stant has been fine for me for 30k and it doesn’t even have a release pinhole.
Alright, I drove around the block then parked, pulled the connector and tested with wire and ground (engine on) .62V steady with the multimeter at Vdc 20 setting. Is that running rich? I didn’t make operating temperature.. about 30%.
Can I safely drive to operating temp, park then pull the connector with engine on and attach my multimeter as you described then read my results?
Nevermind. Testing.Are they kicking on normally at idle without driving the car or are they turning on when you’re driving on the street when it’s 0ºF out? In my experience in the northeast during winter, my fans never came on unless I was idle in line at mcdonalds for 5 minutes, and that’s pushing it. It almost sounds like your fans are kicking on prematurely, bringing in cold air then cooling your system before they should. If that’s the case however, it’s extending the longevity of your transmission and engine as long your oils are fresh and the correct viscosity. There’s an underlying issue here (as Eric would say – I think that’s what he says, ha). Let’s see how the cap does. Why did you go to the dealership for that anyway? Third-party OEM radiator caps are perfectly fine.
Dramegno, thanks for that link, very helpful. DaCoder, thanks for the resistance readings. I was hoping it was going to be easier than pinching wires which I’m not about to do because I’m scared of screwing up my electrical system more than it is at this point. Darn.
Your heater core sounds like it’s flowing. Interesting about the fans kicking on before operating temperature is reached. I’m curious since it’s so cold there when you’re driving, the fans shouldn’t kick on. I had a stuck relay that kept my fans ON after I started. Turned out to be a stuck No.1 (or 2) relay. Replaced it and *that* issue was solved. Maybe test your fan relay by checking with a multimeter. Or maybe the coolant temperature switch (sensor) isn’t plugged in securely enough. Just throwing shit out there.
