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220k, nice. Your third party lock system is a piece of shit (unless you got it after you bought the car, then I might be a piece of shit). Have you tried squirting some WD-40 on the hinge to see if it releases? PB-Blaster works too. If it works, let it dry, then gently grease it up and you’ll be set for another 100k unless it’s the long handle giving you problems.
You and Chris (maybe Scotty) never clean the oil filter housing before installing a new filter. With older cars, most of the time, grind builds up on a downward-facing hub. Nonetheless, I’ll always wipe a bit of dirt off that housing regardless of its orientation unless I’m not getting paid in some form.
PS – a child in Africa could have drank that .3 qt. 😀 Too much?
I look for Dex II decades backwards-compatible in mine, but yours should be GL4 or GL5? if you’re doing it yourself, you’ll know something’s wrong if you chose the wrong type. Yay for owner’s manuals!
Still doesn’t amount to the crazy explanation of the woobliness on road xyz. All our old BJs get trashed and we pray it fixes the problem. It doesn’t, if we’re not lucky. If you have some good years traveled on that vehicle, I wouldn’t hesitate to assume the frame has shifted and that there’s no remedy for a slight wobble (excessive, yes). Drive her hard with caution, but don’t let up if an elk is 10 feet away at 60 mph. WTf am I talking about
Lookin good under there for a 93. I’d check the oil pan gasket first or if more adventurous, check your oil pressure. Then move to the crankshaft seal. My Toyota was leaking bad from the crank before replaced. Now it shoots minor reminders from a worn oil pan gasket.
Interesting that your friend’s Neon needle sits that low. Maybe Dodge had something in mind when they designed this car, but truly, the only way to test the heat is to drive it. Sounds like you’ve done everything right as long as the car runs straight.
For the record, my post was for exterior cleaning. The OP didn’t specify exactly what the “engine cover” was.
Was wondering when they introduced those plastic covers under the hood on a Civic.. Brake cleaner would be a good start, but a full down rinse would be a foam engine degreaser. The last one I used said it was fine on electrical connections (wasn’t for my engine bay), but I’d cover up your alternator, etc.. Gunk has always done me well. I doubt dishwashing soap would be a problem if you wanted to squirt the bottle over the tough spots. Make sure your engine is mostly cool.
Check your main fuse/junction box under your hood for the no.2 fan relay. That was my culprit on my toyota. I believe you can test it by having someone turn your key to ON position while you have your finger on the relay. If your fans come on in ON position without cranking the engine, it’s gotta be a $20 relay (dealership).
1) Oil will remain in the filter if you did a quicky change, but not too much. As other’s suggested, let the engine cool on a flat surface, then take your reading again.
2) No need to waste your oil. When you get that filter off, put the new one on properly: Clean filter contact points with a rag and put a lil bit of fresh motor oil on the filter gasket. After threading on the filter until you feel resistance, use a few fingers to tighten more, then use all fingers or hand to twist a quarter to half more. Check for leakage after a drive if you’re weary.
Just sharing minimalistic details for search engine suggestions.
