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If we only knew about these problems before we could afford a used acura, we STILL wouldn’t have been afforded the money to buy Honda quality which we all know during the year is way beyond Toyota. The 1999 Acura TL didn’t seem too hard to work on and drove smooth as a booty even with worm suspension. Oh well. I’d buy an Odyssey if I was a mom of many.
Good call on the relays. Our OBD1 systems are very hard to diagnose because the ECU does everything for the vehicle and not for us. If you can replicate your problem when another person is around. Have them about to turn on the car while your finger is on the starter relay (big 1 inch cubed box), under your hood. And if you feel a click. Your starer is fine. mmkay
Bo King, dang. That was not easy to read and I understand how you feel. Owning a vehicle can sometimes kick you right in the backend. As if we don’t have enough to worry about right now but the thing that we thought was secure in our life is proving to be the most detrimental. Welcome to car ownership with a Ford Fiesta. No offense.
I’ll give you the quick answer to your Ford dealership question. You had the chance to fix the issue after you bottomed out but chose to get dismissed by the service rep(s) at Ford. Not sure what Bo’s exactly did, although it sound like they may have patched something, you proceeded to put your trust into the “multipoint inspection” years later at the dealership and soon thereafter your 135,000 Fiesta blew up. I don’t want to be too sour but, that’s a nice run of a Fiesta especially after a personal accident!
Here’s the big rhetorical question. You dropped off your pimp ride at Ford and got slapped with a $5k bill. The question is… did you approve ANY of those repairs? Time to formulate your public discussion. Wear a mask and good luck.
Was going to say to check the oil pressure, but your OBD2 system is far ahead of my OBD1 93 Camry. Maybe your timing is way off because your harmonic balancer is somehow ruined after 160k. If there’s no maintenance record on this gem, you’re chasing multiple issues. Don’t even know if this is a standard or automatic tranny. Good luck!
Yeah, it’s on it way out. You can throw some Lucas branded fluid. Try to keep it running tho…maybe it’s all in your head now that marijuana is legal in Arizona
Bro, if you have endless money for a ’99 Civic then just replace the entire HVAC. If this is a DIY, avoid the evap/expansion valve, and condenser unless the fins are ruined. Charge it, see if it holds. Get back to us.
Water has a higher boiling tolerance than coolant in a closed system so either A. something happened to your 16psi cap, or B. Air was introduced into the system and your H20 pump doesn’t know what to do. Try idling the engine with cap off for 15-30 minutes with some manual revs and main hose squeezes. Head gasket issues are rare unless someone is driving in the red.
Forgot what it’s called — “Earth Connection”? Basically check main ground runs from battery to chassis. That’s all I gots.
New to engine issues and what to look for, but your compression numbers are way beyond tolerance at cyls 2 and 4…+-10. If money is tight, but you’re attached to the Kia, keep up with the appropriate levels of oil and just drive it out. At this point an additive will only prolong the healthiest part of your vehicle, but don’t be surprised if something catastrophic happens out of the blue. You could be looking at another 75k or 10k. Darn Kias. Good luck brotha.
Agree that Moog has gotten a horrible rep the last decade. Depending where they’re sourced from depends on their quality and who the heck knows if the old problem solver line is worse than the new line and vice versa. They’re always packaged with the “Official Steering & Suspension of NASCAR” box, but is Federal-Mogul Motorsports at fault or like previously stated, the source.
Long story short, I’ve had good experience with MOOG lower BJs, LCAs, and especially tie rods on my 3rd gen camry. Their TRs are a decent aftermarket option that seem to need little care after a nice lube. Hope this helps.
Sounds like you found out the general area of where the water’s coming from. I’d start by taking out the glove box and shining some light through that area toward the corner right engine bay area and see if someone on the other end sees a gap of light. Maybe reverse that from engine side down into glove box area? Probably not easy to find Element solutions even at a Honda dealership. Most of them beeline straight to W/S. Good luck and great mileage, Dawn!
My budget for parts was <$100. I pulled the compressor yesterday and turned the clutch and it was stuck, then broke free with not much effort and a "burp" emitted from the line inlets (holes). Proceeded to jump the unit and the clutch caught, bearings are smooth, no slippage. Dry as a bone inside too. My question was if I should buy a recharge kit to kickstart the system, but I already have parts and seals on order. Have a feeling my problem when I did the Walmart conversion kit many years ago was a messy clog in the condenser. $90 in parts and oil, my time, and a trip to Walmart for the recharge and we'll see if I get cold air again. Gen 3 Toyotas seem to treat us fanatics well.