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After testing the CAN wires on that circuit (all reading 60ohms), checked all powers and grounds to the Skid control ECU. All of them were good, so I ordered a used replacement skid control ecu (found the same part number from a 2007 highlander hybrid). When replacing the ecu I unhooked the negative on the battery for it, swapped it out. Once I cleared the codes, there was no longer any ‘current’ codes, no lights, and the brakes and power steering work better than they have in a long time .
Lastly, I had to do the zero calibration on the new unit.I did not have to go to a dealer or use special software to have any calibration done on the ecu (zero point calibration done with diagnostic tool), I’m not sure if that’s because I used an ecu from the same model (off by a year), or because it does not require it.
Happy I got my car back, if anyone has questions on the process, lemme know.
Received a used replacement Brake Control Power Supply Module today and popped it in. No luck though.. Same issues as before
The plug looks clean, fuses all look good, and codes are still current
Anyone out there?
Could be a faulty sensor, maybe been air in the line.
Have you had a coolant change or work done to the system recently?UPDATE:
I did some digging around and found the brake control power supply (located in the rear left corner of the trunk under the paneling), and found some moisture in the compartment it sits. I noticed the edge was bulging a bit so I disconnected it and found some exploded resistors. Seeing as though this is likely the problem and needs to be replaced either way, I’m going to replace it and bring an update on the situation when that time comes.
Pictures included for anyone’s curiosity
I’ll check the motor mounts out sometime this week, any tips on what I should be looking for in a bad mount?
Suspension-wise, I noticed the rubber bushings to the control arm were a bit cracked but not hard. Ball joints are newly replaced when I changed the axles, not suspension but I did not state that earlier. I did not pay attention to the other bushings when I had the tire off. I was thinking of doing some work on suspension parts this summer, but would that cause relatively intense vibration only under acceleration?
There not really a noise, just vibration, it will happen at any angle straight or turned wheel.
As for loose parts such as a liner or hose, the vibration is too intense for it to be something of that nature, but since the vibration is on an off then something being loose has popped into my head as well.
I’ve replaced some calipers on my vehicle before and had to run through the bleeding process through my computer to properly do it as well.
I’d say the caliper is not the problem since it’s not leaking and the brakes do work still. I bet there is still air somewhere in the lines.
You said you’re familiar with brake work, but is it possible when you ran the procedure that you bled the calipers out of order?Did you pull out all the old brake fluid from the reservoir before bleeding and did you notice if it was dirty, how dirty if it was? If you didn’t remove it, the dirty fluid could damage the master cylinder.
When you double pump the brakes to get them to feel like normal, does the pedal move towards the floor at all when you hold it in place?
If not, your master cylinder is likely not the issue.Can you extrapolate on your bleeding method? If do you keep the bleeder valve wide open through the whole process or do you pump the brakes, then hold the pedal down with something, then open and close the bleeder valve?
Also,in my experience, using a one man bleeder can be deceiving if you don’t have the hose around the nipple as tight as it can be, letting air from outside get in where the hose sits over the the bleeder valve. This can make it seem like you’re removing more air than you are. I use a zip tie over mine, but even then it leaks occasionally.
As Bonnieman stated, the brakes or the bearing could be the problem.
To check the bearings lift the front end of your car (don’t loosen the lug nuts), then secure it. Put your hands on opposite sides of the tire and try wiggle the tire in all directions, if there is any play at then it’s likely your bearing. If there is play and is only when your hands are top and bottom it could possibly be a ball joint (which wont cause your symptoms). If you dont have any play with the tire in the air, check the brakes.
To check your brakes you’ll have to remove the tire to get a good look at them, if there’s still meat on the pads then I’d pull them off to make sure there is or isn’t a wear tab on the pads. If there is and the tab is at the same level as the pad then that’s likely your problem. Replace them and if you still have a metallic noise then keep us updated.