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Worst repair screw up? I NEVER screw anything up!
OK, just kidding of course. I do have a problem over torquing bolts, even while using a torque wrench. Please tell me I am not the only one that does this.
Case in point – replacing the water pump on my 96 Honda. Over torqued the bolt and broke it. This was not a high torque bolt of course, but I was using the torque wrench just so that would not happen.
Case in point – was replacing a transmission pan on a Jeep Cherokee and I overtorqued one of the 21 bolts holding it in. Found out that with 20 bolts, the tranny fluid still does not leak. Got leaky there.
On occasion, I do leave a wrench or some other tool in the engine bay after finishing a repair.
Yes, I screw things up a lot. Guess that is how we learn though, right?
I agree with the 619DioFan above. If the engine was run hot over a period of time, there is probably damage BELOW the head as well.
Just replacing the head would be like putting lipstick on a pig.
Probably going to need an engine swap, which is not the end of the world. Of course, with your new radiator and cooling system, watch out for future over heats. You do not want this to happen again.
Sounds like you had two questions there, one about the head gasket and the other about whether to keep the truck because it has rust issues.
I do not know the extent of the rust, but if it is eating into the frame, then you may have a bigger problem than just a head gasket. I would check your frame underneath and take a look at the state of things. If you are seriously thinking about getting rid of the truck, the extent of the rust may be the deciding factor.
Depends on the car and the part.
I have a BMW 325i and have had EXCELLENT service online with Pelican Parts and Bavarian Autosport.
Also have a couple of Honda Accords. For those, I like Majestic Honda (online) and sometimes my local dealer when I need OEM parts.
For parts like oil filters, bulbs, etc. my local Advanced Auto works just fine.
Hmmmm, 700,000 miles? You must still be breaking it in! V-)
I have two Honda Accords and I agree, they are long lasting vehicles. Unless you start having a rust issue, you can probably hit 800,000 easy.
Follow that dream! If your heart is into it, then you will find a way to make it work.
Also, after age 40, we (I am 55) are in a protected group in the eyes of the law – we cannot be discriminated against because of our age.
Of course, you could also go the independent route and be your own boss by starting your own shop. That would have some advantages to it as well.
Good news, the engine is now out!
As several of you mentioned, I needed to get back underneath to see what the problem was. I discovered that one of the bolts from the torque converter was still catching the flywheel. The other 3 bolts were free and clear, but the last one was stuck and at an angle. I simply changed the direction of the engine hoist and pulled it more toward the driver side. At that point, the flywheel worked itself free of that last bolt and the rest was easy.
The engine is now safe and sound, bonding with its new home, the floor of my carport. The next step is to take the flywheel off, then attach it to my not yet assembled engine stand for final disassembly. From there, it will go to a local machine shop for a little “pick me up.”
When you buy your new wheel cylinders, be sure and take one to the store if you are going to an Advanced Auto or similar store. The cylinder needs to fit perfectly as there is no much wiggle room for the connections and bolts.
I did a change on a Honda Civic awhile back and ended up having to buy the brake cylinders from the dealer because the ones from AA did not fit right, even though it said it would for that model. Some parts just have to be OEM and from the dealer.
Thanks all. I will get back under and take another look.
Will also try the pry bar after one more check for a hidden bell housing bolt.
BTW, I am using an engine leveler for this pull. Will keep you posted.
1973 Plymouth Satellite, 318 engine. I drove this during my college years while a student at Florida State University (this was the 70s you understand). It was a very nice running vehicle with decent power. Got about 8 to 10 miles per gallon, on a good day.
I got rid of it in 1981 because my father sold me a fleet car for $1.00 from his company. That car was a 1981 Mazda 626. I had nothing but problems with it and to this day, I am not sure I got my dollar’s worth out of it. I finally sold it for $300 because it was full of electrical problems and I had had enough of it.
I would also recommend getting your gasket from the dealer as opposed to the local auto store. You need this to be as close to OEM as possible, or your gasket might not fit right.
I ran into this very problem a few months ago installing a valve cover gasket on a Honda Accord. The Advanced Auto gasket just wouldn’t fit right. Got the one from my local Honda Dealer and it went on perfect. Also, you only need a little RTV, just on those little tab areas that go around the valve cover, and just a dab, not much.
You should also do your spark plug seals as well when you make this repair.
An inexpensive way to learn about that engine (I have two Honda Accords by the way) is to detail it and clean everything you can. Keeping the engine bay clean has the following benefits:
- It shows pride of ownership in your vehicle.
- It helps you learn where everything is.
- You can see where any oil leaks are coming from.
- You can see the condition of the vehicle better and when something may be going bad – hoses, belts, etc.
One area to clean are your wires and wire connectors. I wipe down the wires with vinyl cleaner and make sure the connectors look good. Whenever I work on a connector, I also spray it with electronic cleaner.
Although not much of a performance enhancer, it is important to check your ground wire connection to the bare metal. I clean these periodically and sand them when necessary. With Hondas, the stock ground wire from the engine mount to the valve cover is kind of lame. You might consider a better one from Nology.