Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Quoted From Beefy:
I don’t think he meant he was taking bolts off with it man. It sounds like he is not getting the proper setting when he dials it in, and it’s snapping off smaller bolts as he is installing them if I read it right.
That is correct, I don’t use the torque wrench for removal. The problem is tightening the bolts.
At any rate, it sounds like, based on the comments above, I need to either recalibrate, or get a new wrench. I think I am going to opt for a better quality wrench.
Thanks all for the help.
Quoted From skim3544:
The cover is for one side only.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do … g=11&fg=15
By looking at the color of the engine, I don’t think you have the sludge problem
Hey, thanks for that link with the diagram Skim.
Quoted From 619DioFan:
Looking good ! here is a piece of advice – you had the engine leveler installed wrong. when you go to reinstall the motor attach the leveler with the crank handle twords the front of the engine ( not to the side ) this will allow the chains to reach and also allow you to tilt the engine making install much easier. I have the same leveler and when install properly they make a big difference. also- you may want to pull the tranny while the motor is out then when time to install bolt the tranny to the motor while outside the truck and slip the whole thing in at one time. way easier then laying on your back trying to line everything up.
Whoa, great advice on that leveler. Thanks!
I am going to pull that tranny, and should have done it when I pulled the engine. Thought I would overhaul it too while everything was open.
I use a 12 volt Black and Decker that I bought at a B&D outlet store in Myrtle Beach, SC. Uses regular electricity or your cigarette lighter. I have not had any problems with it.
BTW, you should not need to run it for 10 minutes to top off your tires. Only takes a minute or so if you are down just a few PSI.
I bought the truck from a neighbor, knowing it would be more or less a project vehicle. I wanted something to wrench on, but nothing too complicated either. This truck fit the bill perfect.
I got an answer for that axle nut, I call it “The Beast”.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200442191_200442191
It strikes terror into any axle nut you will ever face.
I use an extension and prop it on a jackstand. You will also need the holding tool to keep the wheel from spinning.
I think Scotty is a bit irritating. He may know his stuff, but the videos don’t show it. He tries to be funny at times, but it just doesn’t work.
I think one reason we are fans of this site is because Eric has lots of content and he doesn’t try to rush the video. Plus, the dry sense of humor is always entertaining.
This has been very helpful and why I like the forums. I could have sworn a rebuild had already taken place, but you have convinced me otherwise.
Will follow that advice on the oil pump.
Also, TexasCoder, the engine came out of, and will go back into, a 1980, Ford F-100.
I even ordered my number punches from Norther Tool so I could mark them myself…
Oh well, guess that is one less step I need to worry about. Time to get those caps off next.
Will keep you posted on the cylinder bore. I am curious myself to see if it has been bored, or just honed over.
Beefy, I think you may be right about the coolant leak repair. My brother looked at the pics and said the same exact thing.
Didn’t even think of that one. In fact, now that I look again, the gel stuff covers up some of the other holes as well.
Thanks for noticing.
One other update on the history of this engine. When I bought the truck, it was running a bit hot, but not overheating.
I went in and checked the entire cooling system:
- Radiator looked new with no visible rust inside.
- Heater core also looked relatively new.
- Thermostat was operating as the top hose was warm after a few minutes.
- Hoses looked to be in good shape, with no coolant leaks at the connections.
- Water pump was old, so I ordered a new one and was about to install it when I decided to go into the engine and do a general rebuild, as it was old (32 years), leaking oil, and not particularly peppy.
I’d like to think that maybe this was the core (lol) of my problem with the engine running hot – plugged up water passages at the gasket.
I will check for metal pieces in the oil pan as recommended by 619DioFan.
My brother also looked it over and suggested it might have been an oil hole “gone bad”. At any rate, my plan is to take the block to a machine shop for inspection and possible cleaning, boring, etc. IF it is salvageable.
Thanks for the help on this.