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Thanks for that update on the details on how you pulled that off with the concrete slab reinforcement. This is very helpful.
This is an update to the transmission problem.
I found a bad fuse that controlled the dome lights, speedometer, and the vehicle speed sensor. Not sure why it went out but it did. With the new fuse, the VSS was able to input to whatever module controls the tranny and it has been smooth shifting ever since.
Well, can’t go wrong with a Honda Civic or Accord. Gas mileage is excellent, reliability is good, and there are a ton of aftermarket and OEM parts available. I have owned two Accords and one Civic (all from the 90s) and was very happy with them. I eventually sold the Civic but the two Accords are still in the family. Both are well over 200K on the mileage.
I think the only thing that could really stop them at this point is rust. Of course, with older cars, you will still have to make repairs, doesn’t matter what model, so there is always a tradeoff between less money up front to buy vs. putting $ into it because it is older. If you like to do a little wrenching though, the Hondas are fairly easy for a DIY person to work on. Plus, ETCG has a lot of videos on fixing Hondas as well.
You mentioned your vehicle was an Accord. For Honda parts, I have had good results with Majestic Honda. They also provide a diagram which is very helpful when you place the order.
For repairs that are a little complicated, I also print out the diagram off the website and have it with me when I install new parts. I did my first timing belt last summer on an Accord, and I had several Majestic Honda diagrams printed right beside me as I put the parts back in. I also used the ETCG video on timing belts as well, which of course, was very good.
Here is an update on this little mystery. Before taking the panel off the door, I thought I would check fuses and make sure one had not blown. Turns out a little 7.5 amp fuse under the hood was bad.
The fuse was labeled “interior lights”, but it also controlled a few other things:
- The dome light
- Each of the four lights on the door themselves
- The interval speed on the windshield washer (not the slow and fast speed, just the interval speed), and finally,
- The warning buzzer that lets you know you left your headlights on.
I popped a new fuse in and at the moment, all is working fine. Of course, I realize there is a reason the fuse blew, so I will keep the eagle eye on things.
I was in your exact same position a few years back, only it was a 96 Accord. A friend of mine suggested buying a reciprocating saw and it turned out to be one of the best investments I ever made. (I bought a Craftsman at Sears). For an old exhaust like yours, it will be much easier to just cut the whole thing out, starting from the back and working up to the cat. A reciprocating saw can do that in a matter of minutes.
If you have never used one, just be careful about where the tip of the blade goes as it can fly back at you if you are not paying attention. Use goggles, a dust mask, or run a fan so it blows the metal dust away from you.
As for the hardware, it will be very rusted and most of the bolts will not be useable. Just replace all the old stuff.
To answer your other question, I would recommend going to the Majestic Honda website, as they have factory drawings of how all of the parts are arranged. I frequently print these out when I am doing a repair (and ordering parts). When I replaced my exhaust system, I printed everything out and it was a tremendous help in keeping me organized.
Hope it goes well.
Of course, you will need to take care of the mouse problem as well. Check your engine bay for any nests and remove them. Mice like warm areas in the winter, and an engine bay can be very inviting for those little rodents.
You might consider investing in a cat, preferably one that is hungry all the time.
Well, it sounds great to me, especially since my first time doing a timing belt (96 Accord) took me several days. I had to replace a broken crank position sensor in the process and had to wait a few days for the part.
I agree with the comments above, take your time and enjoy the learning the process. Engaging your brain is part of the fun of this hobby.
Some cooling systems also use hard plastic parts that can also deteriorate over time. A few items to check:
- The plastic connections on your radiator that attach to the hoses. Over time, these can literally break into small pieces, thus compromising a secure connection with the hose.
- Thermostat housings made of plastic can eventually crack, leading to leaks and insecure connections with the hose.
- Coolant overflow tanks and their connections with the radiator can also become compromised, causing leaks and then overheating.
After your truck is up and on the stands, make sure the stands are still level. Sometimes they pivot just a bit when you are raising the other side, causing the stand not to sit properly on the ground. In that case, just raise the truck and slightly reposition the stand until it sits firmly on the ground. I have seen this happen many times in my own driveway.
Once your stands are secure, give the truck a push and make sure the stands do not shake. I spend extra time making sure my stands are perfect. I do not want to bench press a vehicle!
Also, whenever you are under a car, make sure your cell phone is with you just in case you have to call for help.
Stay safe.
Ah the joys of working on a Bimmer! I am currently battling a 2004 325i with a lean code (as well as a bunch of oil leaks).
Try the E46 Forum. This one has a lot entries in the discussion forum and should be able to help you out on that code.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I would say it’s due to heat, look closely at the coolant passages near that cylinder which show more deposits and discoloration than the other ports. This could mean that it had a coolant leak into that cylinder as suggested but perhaps there could be an issue with the coolant jacket near that cylinder causing it to run hotter than the other cylinders.
Come to think of it, that is probably the cylinder that had the blocked passages on the coolant ports. I have a pic of it under the 302 rebuild in the Repair Central forum. That would make sense for that cylinder to be running hot and hence, the discolored valves.
Thanks for the update.
What was interesting about the video is I had just watched it on YouTube the other day as I have a 325i – E46. As he says in the video, this is not the only way to clean the system, but the least invasive.
For the BMW, you can use ATF for the tranny and p/s, which is nice because the red color does help in diagnosing your fluid condition. I am getting ready to flush my system and replace the reservoir (which also contains the p/s filter).
For the record, I absolutely hate Honda captive rotors. I don’t just dislike them, I hate them. Thanks to ETCG video on captive rotors, I did not completely destroy my Accord trying to change the rotors.
Nonetheless, this is one “bad” link, Bad Dude, very informative and some good pics.
Thanks for posting.