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Went back and looked over everything again. Looks like it may be a stubborn caliper on the offending wheel. Putting the car in reverse puts the left wheel spinning, but to get the right one to spin, I have to manually turn it a bit and eventually, it runs on its own, but I can hear it turn through a rough spot on the disc. Caliper is either not opening completely or the disc is out of sorts.
At any rate, I think I have found the problem.
Went back and looked over everything again. Looks like it may be a stubborn caliper on the offending wheel. Putting the car in reverse puts the left wheel spinning, but to get the right one to spin, I have to manually turn it a bit and eventually, it runs on its own, but I can hear it turn through a rough spot on the disc. Caliper is either not opening completely or the disc is out of sorts.
At any rate, I think I have found the problem.
Car is an E46, automatic tranny, with disc all the way around. I replaced all calipers, discs, and pads about 2 years ago, so everything has been fine on the brake side.
I was a little stumped by the wheels both turning when I put the car in neutral, thought they were not suppose to turn at all. However, in reverse, only the left side turned. I made sure the e-brake was off.
Car is an E46, automatic tranny, with disc all the way around. I replaced all calipers, discs, and pads about 2 years ago, so everything has been fine on the brake side.
I was a little stumped by the wheels both turning when I put the car in neutral, thought they were not suppose to turn at all. However, in reverse, only the left side turned. I made sure the e-brake was off.
Hope you are able to isolate the problem. If it is the carbs, you will learn the process of checking/cleaning them out and will probably never go back to outsourcing it again since you will know how to do it.
Safe riding.
Hope you are able to isolate the problem. If it is the carbs, you will learn the process of checking/cleaning them out and will probably never go back to outsourcing it again since you will know how to do it.
Safe riding.
The Ninja is a cool little bike, I learned to ride on one.
I would recommend completing the tune up by:
1. Changing out the fuel filter.
2. Changing out the air filter.
3. Put in fresh gas.The Ninja is a cool little bike, I learned to ride on one.
I would recommend completing the tune up by:
1. Changing out the fuel filter.
2. Changing out the air filter.
3. Put in fresh gas.On some Toyotas like the Camry, you will get better access if you take off the front passenger wheel and then the plastic wheel shroud at the top. This will give you better access to the belt if it is on that side of the engine.
On some Toyotas like the Camry, you will get better access if you take off the front passenger wheel and then the plastic wheel shroud at the top. This will give you better access to the belt if it is on that side of the engine.
Yes, a bent wheel is a possibility. I have had that happen on a BMW 3 series before. Fortunately, the wheel was repaired and have not had a problem since. :whistle:
Yes, a bent wheel is a possibility. I have had that happen on a BMW 3 series before. Fortunately, the wheel was repaired and have not had a problem since. :whistle:
[quote=”Tomh” post=80178]I think the biggest bang in brake upgrades for the CD5 Accords is to swap in front brakes off a Prelude Vtec (99 works I believe). It requires using hubs off an Acura TL 2.2, and the stock Accord bearings. The hoses are the stock Accord units, the rotors, calipers, brackets and pads are all from the Prelude. They have 11″ rotors as opposed to the 10’s on the Accord, plus it is a rotor over hub setup, which is much easier to service than the stock hub over rotor setup of the Accord.
Second upgrade would be the stainless lines, and ceramic pads. I can’t imagine anyone needing more stopping power than that in an Accord.[/quote]
Great point on the rotor switch up front. The fronts are those nasty captive rotors which are a bear to work with. The captive rotor video by ETCG helped me through that mess.