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So I removed the entire center console and inspected the soelnoid on the shift assembly. Here is what I found…a 3 inch metal rod was lying at the bottom of the shifter assembly. After further investigation, this rod is suppose to slide through a plastic rod which is inserted into the shaft for the shifter. This plastic rod broke where this metal rod slides through. One end of the metal rod is supposed to activate a micro switch mounted underneath the shifter assembly. Apparently this micro swith has something to do with a solenoid under the steering column.
As it turns out, my opinion is the previous owner must of had an issue with not being able to remove the key from the ignition. The plunger on the solenoid on the steering column just to the left of the ignition was taped closed. (There is an access to this solenoid under the steering column should the key ever get stuck.)
For trubleshooting purposes, I inserted the metal rod through the broken plastic rod so it would actuate this micro switch. The shifter would not move out of gear without pressing the brake as it should and the steering wheel now locks. Do not know how long it will last before the metal rod falls out again.
Unfortunately per chevy dealer this 50 cent plastic rod that inserted down into the shifter and which the metal rod slides into is not avaiable as a replacement part. Said I will need to order the whole shifter assembly. Does not look hard to replace but 180 bucks for a part that costs less than a buck! I am in the wrong business!!!Thank you College Man for guiding me in the right direction!
So I removed the entire center console and inspected the soelnoid on the shift assembly. Here is what I found…a 3 inch metal rod was lying at the bottom of the shifter assembly. After further investigation, this rod is suppose to slide through a plastic rod which is inserted into the shaft for the shifter. This plastic rod broke where this metal rod slides through. One end of the metal rod is supposed to activate a micro switch mounted underneath the shifter assembly. Apparently this micro swith has something to do with a solenoid under the steering column.
As it turns out, my opinion is the previous owner must of had an issue with not being able to remove the key from the ignition. The plunger on the solenoid on the steering column just to the left of the ignition was taped closed. (There is an access to this solenoid under the steering column should the key ever get stuck.)
For trubleshooting purposes, I inserted the metal rod through the broken plastic rod so it would actuate this micro switch. The shifter would not move out of gear without pressing the brake as it should and the steering wheel now locks. Do not know how long it will last before the metal rod falls out again.
Unfortunately per chevy dealer this 50 cent plastic rod that inserted down into the shifter and which the metal rod slides into is not avaiable as a replacement part. Said I will need to order the whole shifter assembly. Does not look hard to replace but 180 bucks for a part that costs less than a buck! I am in the wrong business!!!Thank you College Man for guiding me in the right direction!
removed the tube and blew compressed air and line is clear. Brought the RPMs up there is a steady flow of coolant through the line into the tank. (PREVIOUS POST I DID NOT INCREASE THE RPMs WHEN CHECKING THE TUBE)
Been driving the car a week with no problems…THEN this morning from cold start drove a mile to store, temp gauge tacked out to red and coolant spewing from under cap. UGGHHH!!
I did notice that you can not “squeeze” the upper radiator hose a) ITS VERY HOT cannot squeeze for more than couple seconds and b) the hose appears to be hard when squeezed at all when hot and running a bit.
My next step I guess is going to try the Blue Devil pour-n-go head gasket sealant only because of failure of previous test of blue liquid turning yellow.
removed the tube and blew compressed air and line is clear. Brought the RPMs up there is a steady flow of coolant through the line into the tank. (PREVIOUS POST I DID NOT INCREASE THE RPMs WHEN CHECKING THE TUBE)
Been driving the car a week with no problems…THEN this morning from cold start drove a mile to store, temp gauge tacked out to red and coolant spewing from under cap. UGGHHH!!
I did notice that you can not “squeeze” the upper radiator hose a) ITS VERY HOT cannot squeeze for more than couple seconds and b) the hose appears to be hard when squeezed at all when hot and running a bit.
My next step I guess is going to try the Blue Devil pour-n-go head gasket sealant only because of failure of previous test of blue liquid turning yellow.
wysetech…..UPDATE: With engine running from a cold start, recovery tank cap off and line from thermo housing disconnected from recovery tank (stuck line into a small plastic bottle to catch any coolant) so I can observe. I had my daughter watch the temp gauge as I watched for coolant from line and tank.
As the engine ran for about 5 mins I observed coolant rising in the tank (again, metal line from housing was not connected to tank) and about an inch or less from bottom of the tank opening the coolant level began to lower. Right before the level lowered the temp gauge made it to 220. There was small amount of coolant coming from the metal line into the plastic bottle but didn’t appear to “flow”. I am not sure how it is supposed to flow (heavy or lite).
It wasn’t a steady stream like turning on a faucet, more like turning a faucet off and on numerous times very quickly but coolant was coming through the line. Spitting I guess you can call it. The coolant that was in the plastic bottle was clean so I just poured back into the tank and installed the cap and line to the tank and let the car run longer.
The line from the housing to the tank was very HOT but I slowly pulled it off the tank to check and coolant was coming through line (again, wasnt flowing). Temp gauge never passed 220. Ran the car for 20 more minutes with no issues.
I apologize in advance for such lengthy response but I tried to be as detailed as I could for you.
Thanks again for your assistance, pretty soon my nickname will be Mr. Clean if I pull any more hair out. hahahawysetech…..UPDATE: With engine running from a cold start, recovery tank cap off and line from thermo housing disconnected from recovery tank (stuck line into a small plastic bottle to catch any coolant) so I can observe. I had my daughter watch the temp gauge as I watched for coolant from line and tank.
As the engine ran for about 5 mins I observed coolant rising in the tank (again, metal line from housing was not connected to tank) and about an inch or less from bottom of the tank opening the coolant level began to lower. Right before the level lowered the temp gauge made it to 220. There was small amount of coolant coming from the metal line into the plastic bottle but didn’t appear to “flow”. I am not sure how it is supposed to flow (heavy or lite).
It wasn’t a steady stream like turning on a faucet, more like turning a faucet off and on numerous times very quickly but coolant was coming through the line. Spitting I guess you can call it. The coolant that was in the plastic bottle was clean so I just poured back into the tank and installed the cap and line to the tank and let the car run longer.
The line from the housing to the tank was very HOT but I slowly pulled it off the tank to check and coolant was coming through line (again, wasnt flowing). Temp gauge never passed 220. Ran the car for 20 more minutes with no issues.
I apologize in advance for such lengthy response but I tried to be as detailed as I could for you.
Thanks again for your assistance, pretty soon my nickname will be Mr. Clean if I pull any more hair out. hahahaGrooves are already trenched into my head!
I drove the car for 3 days this week with no problems…drove it this morning and from cold start temp gage to red, fan kicked on and lowered to normal op temp. Opened hood and coolant spilling from underneath recovery tank cap.
I will check what u are recommending tomorrow. Which of the two hose/lines into the recovery tank reservoir should I watch for? The rubber hose/line from top of the radiator to the tank or the rubber-to-metal line that goes from the tank to the thermo housing?
Thank you!
Grooves are already trenched into my head!
I drove the car for 3 days this week with no problems…drove it this morning and from cold start temp gage to red, fan kicked on and lowered to normal op temp. Opened hood and coolant spilling from underneath recovery tank cap.
I will check what u are recommending tomorrow. Which of the two hose/lines into the recovery tank reservoir should I watch for? The rubber hose/line from top of the radiator to the tank or the rubber-to-metal line that goes from the tank to the thermo housing?
Thank you!
The thermostat was the first to be replaced because I was thinking of what could cause a coolant back up…a possible stuck thermostat so I replaced it. When it happened again within 2 days, I replaced it again with a little more expensive one only of the logic that it could have been a bad quality thermostat…negative results.
Although I also replaced the upper and lower hoses (nothing was wrong, due to age was replaced as preventative maintenance), I was thinking possibly a slight chance a “collapse” was happening with the hose since was not very expensive. Replaced with a better quality hose with negative results as well.
The metal line (goes from the top of recovery tank to the neck of the thermostat housing) I did replace due to being gunked up at the end. The metal portion of the line was so blocked up I couldn’t even blow air through it. The rubber end (about a 4 inch hose attatched to metal line) was not blocked. Had to get that line from a GM dealer because no one stocked or could get it. I loosened the line at top of the thermostat housing and coolant is flowing fine.
The thermostat was the first to be replaced because I was thinking of what could cause a coolant back up…a possible stuck thermostat so I replaced it. When it happened again within 2 days, I replaced it again with a little more expensive one only of the logic that it could have been a bad quality thermostat…negative results.
Although I also replaced the upper and lower hoses (nothing was wrong, due to age was replaced as preventative maintenance), I was thinking possibly a slight chance a “collapse” was happening with the hose since was not very expensive. Replaced with a better quality hose with negative results as well.
The metal line (goes from the top of recovery tank to the neck of the thermostat housing) I did replace due to being gunked up at the end. The metal portion of the line was so blocked up I couldn’t even blow air through it. The rubber end (about a 4 inch hose attatched to metal line) was not blocked. Had to get that line from a GM dealer because no one stocked or could get it. I loosened the line at top of the thermostat housing and coolant is flowing fine.
97,642 miles….I paid closer attention to my issue yesterday….from a cold start as you are driving the temp gage tacks out almost to 280 degrees in the red then heard cooling fan kick on. Pulled over popped open hood and coolant seaping from under coolant recovery tank cap. Continued driving and drove the car most of the day and normal operating range on temp gage rest of day. Started car first thing this morning and while sitting in driveway running i observed the temp gage within 10 mins or less tack out in red, coolant seaping from underneath cap, cooling fan kicked on and temp gage now at normal range. car sat for couple hours, went out and started vehicle been running for 30 mins at normal temp range. Go figure….VERY CONFUSING!!
97,642 miles….I paid closer attention to my issue yesterday….from a cold start as you are driving the temp gage tacks out almost to 280 degrees in the red then heard cooling fan kick on. Pulled over popped open hood and coolant seaping from under coolant recovery tank cap. Continued driving and drove the car most of the day and normal operating range on temp gage rest of day. Started car first thing this morning and while sitting in driveway running i observed the temp gage within 10 mins or less tack out in red, coolant seaping from underneath cap, cooling fan kicked on and temp gage now at normal range. car sat for couple hours, went out and started vehicle been running for 30 mins at normal temp range. Go figure….VERY CONFUSING!!
UPDATE: Took vehicle to get test done….the blue solution turned yellow which I guess means CO2 is getting into coolant. Anyone out there know of “Blue Devil” pour and go head gasket sealant? The mechanic I took vehicle to stated it does work for MINOR issues. Since my issue is only of the fact coolant comes out of coolant recovery tank (but not all the time), could this product work? (or $1600+ for the head gasket work) All opinions are greatly respected and appreciated.
UPDATE: Took vehicle to get test done….the blue solution turned yellow which I guess means CO2 is getting into coolant. Anyone out there know of “Blue Devil” pour and go head gasket sealant? The mechanic I took vehicle to stated it does work for MINOR issues. Since my issue is only of the fact coolant comes out of coolant recovery tank (but not all the time), could this product work? (or $1600+ for the head gasket work) All opinions are greatly respected and appreciated.
I purchased the car in May 2010 with just over 67k miles. When I had the car inspected prior to purchasing from private owner I was told the head gaskets looked to be recently replaced. Question: The car runs fine with exception of above problem. Is it possible for the head gasket to once again need replacement? Only put over 30k on car since I purchased it.