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OK Thanks. I think it would be good practice to apply some to the caliper piston and wheel cylinder, as long as it doesn’t affect the rubber. The reason I’m interested is that I had a disc caliper seize on my car. It got tighter and tighter so much I had to drive at 1/2 throttle to barely move. I measured the disc temp with an IR gun and the rotor was over 600 degrees! The standard practice that we all do of squeezing the caliper piston back into its hole when we change pads may work, unless the rubber piston boot isn’t intact. Mine had few tears in it which allowed moisture to rust the piston enough so when it was pushed back, the rust now was under the seal and caused the caliper to become stuck.I removed the piston and cleaned it with crocus cloth, and reinstalled it with new dust boots. I’ll get some of the Silicone paste and apply it to the piston. I like the idea of the thick paste.!
Quoted From sergio correa:
check for vacum leaks at the selonoid and you can test it whith a scanner it will aciviate
Test it with a scanner? That means you’ll need one that does bidirectional control. I don’t believe most scanners can do that. D:-)
On my Toyota I can hear it clicking when activated. It usually purges after 2 miles of driving as I’m sitting at a stop light. The idle becomes eradtic due to the air/fumes getting dumped into the intake.[quote]Quoted From TexasCoder:
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I use the same silicone paste to lube the caliper piston where it seals against the rubber, and also on the slide pins for the caliper.
OK Thanks for the reply. For the slide pins I would use a special lube made just for that. The silicone may not last as long as the special brake grease.
Something like http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/key/BST%2049590/pn/Brake-Caliper-Lubricant-8oz-Brush/erm/productDetail.do