Forum Replies Created
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UPDATE: Alright so i removed the clamp on helper springs as it looked liek they were causing a weird pinion angle to occur, vibration isnt nearly as bad but deffinately still there.
I remember when the truck was on the lift and my friend mentioned the trans mount looked like it wasnt tightened all the way, we tried tightening it and it didnt budge. I decided to go under the truck and push pull on the driveshaft. I can feel something pop as i push up and down and can hear the driveshaft ring as if it were tapped with a screwdriver. At first i couldnt tell if it was the whole trans and everything shifting or just driveshaft.
Got the trans mount nut off, lubed with liquid wrench and ran it back on tight as i could get it. Didnt help anything.
Looked harder at the situation and there is play definitely between the drive shaft yoke and tail shaft of the trans and whats where the popping is coming from.
How can you tell if its worn out splines or tailshaft bearing is shot? This is on a Borg Warner T-5 trans.
id just be happy they are still working on it….far too many times dealers give up and tell you your SOL.
do you actually plan to go off road? im not talking a grass parking lot either. plan to actually haul or town anything?
i put some heavier duty shocks on my s10 and it rode like a brick unless there was 700# int he bed. very bumpy ride on the road on the front end and rear end. when going over bumps at high speed (on/off ramp especially) the shcosk were so stiff it caused the truck to jump sideways. I went back to the cheapest shocks out there and handled much better.
well since we have no idea what kind of car you have, my short answer is get it out somehow. generally the PCV valve is open to the valves/rocker arms/pushrods/camshaft and not good to have a piece of something bouncing around in there.
haha yea penny that has been hammered in probably because like i said wrong size battery (aka wrong size terminals) and the bungie cord are givewaways someone got the $5 junkyard battery special instead of buying the proper battery. maybe the poster didnt but a shady car dealer would.
i bet a new nut and bolt (hardware store like $0.20 cents) would probably fix it.
haha yea penny that has been hammered in probably because like i said wrong size battery (aka wrong size terminals) and the bungie cord are givewaways someone got the $5 junkyard battery special instead of buying the proper battery. maybe the poster didnt but a shady car dealer would.
somethign rubbing somethign thats rotating, take the wheel off and see if anything is rubbing the inside of the rim like caliper edge or something. ive had on my car the steel rim rusted at the spotweld and buldged it out just enough (less than 1/4″) and was hitting the corner of the caliper – made a thudding noise as i braked hard but on an aluminum rim i can see how it could squeak.
hit any potholes or curbs that could have bent the rim?
hmm great video, but lets back pedal a bit here. was this noise present on the car since new? how long after you bought it? hit any potholes that could have bent something out of whack? Ive heard a similar noise on the frotn end of cars with severely worn and dry ball joints and on s10 ZR2 4×4’s that have been driven a bit hard love to crack the frame and creak and groan which is why i asked if youve hit any potholes or curbs etc.
I usually put a chalk line or spraypaint a line on the driveshaft to trans so it goes back in the same place. a few times i reused old lines so it could have been off. I checked at lunch today and it is indexed correctly…
yea new oil is hard to see on some of the dipsticks in my engines, one the dipstick tube isnt fully seated in the block (dunno why just isnt and wont go in anymore) but is deff place to check.
deff sounds like rubber bushing riding on something… yea gonna need a buddy to keep bouncing it while your under it looking and pin point spraying some kind of lube.
almost sounds like a spring creaking in its pocket…
my friend had a 2013 legacy… less than 40,000 miles paint was failing (clear coat peeling) – subaru blamed him and wouldn’t do anything about it, drivers seat lumbar broke, and sunroof leaked – be prepared….
First off the chev 2.2L should only have the delco $6 a plug plugs or NKG plugs. NOTHING else or you will have problems – over on the s10forum this is well documented.
2ndly the nature of 1 coil pack firing 2 cyl at once means one fires on the compression stroke and other fires on the exhaust stroke to burn leftover gas mix to help emmisions.
could it be possible that cyl injector is sticky or leaky causing more fuel to be burned on that cyl?
videos dont work for me either…
did they repalce the pads at the same time? is it only on the side that got fixed or both sides?
the wagner ceramic pads i have on my s10 grab and squeak bad if its the first drive in the cold or has condensation on them. usually 1or 2 stops and it goes away.
they could have got grease on the rotor and didnt know it…
when you say play at the pinion do you mean between pinion gear and ring gear? its much tighter (but smooth) than my 02 blazers that has slop…
i cant move the pinion yoke around at all.(up down left right in out)
when you say splines you mean the splines of the axle shaft sliding into the carrier? now that you mention it the passenger side looked great, drivers side wasnt the best but slipped in easily and came out easy when i did the axle seals. has an open differential.
wait you mean slip yoke as in the part the slips inside the trans correct? yea it slides like butter every time i remove the driveshaft in farther to get the rear U joint out of the yoke and then all the way off to remove the driveshaft (then some trans fluid pours out that i put fresh in the trans when i reinstall the driveshaft)
alright i appreciate your response, ill see what i can do about replacing it!
yea once i posted i saw i wrote a book and a half of info but instead of me and the internet playing Q&A for the next week i figured id lay all my known cards out on the table first.
yea its deffinately deals with a certian speed, ive never owned a FWD car so dont know thier weird quirks, deffinately seems to be something from clutch back. A few months ago it would only do it in 5th gear from 45-60 mph and come and go. Talked to the trans shop that did the clutch and he said that 5th gear is typically off on its own shaft and i told him most of its miles are highway and spends alot of time in 5th he said if the fluid were ran low the gear and or shaft could be worn out and “wobble” until you change the load on it. i thought it was possible but when i checked the level i stuck my pinky in the fill hole and got fluid – like i said no funny metals or colors in it when i changed it anyways (was due – 80K since last change) so i wrote that off as a possibility.
did find the rear U joint (3rd in its life) when removed had some rotational play in one of the cups – sure enough one was greasy one was brown sticky paste (rusty grease) so i thought HEY thats gotta be it.
replaced with a MOOG grease-able style with the funky low head grease zerk in one of the caps. Thought moog – twice as expensive as store brand should last rest of the life of the truck easy 20 min job. heck no firstly moog didnt tap the hole in the end cap straight, 2ndly wasnt tapped good enough and stripped the grease zerk out, when i ran a tap thru it i got most of the tap in then it broke the tap off in it. Luckily it broke in a way i could use a punch and get the broken tap out and the grease zerk in. Then when it came time to grease it i had the proper grease adapter and it got grease to the cap i was greasing and the caps left and right but not the one directly across from it no matter what i did. so was OK for a day then the vibration came back. tossed that u joint got the store brand with the grease fitting in the yoke. got it all greased and put on tonight but vibration is still there. so here i am at the internets mercy!