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Could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor as well. I’ve changed a few of them over the years, for similar driveablility issues (including one on my own Impala) Not a hard job to do. Might be worth doing it before changing the fuel pump. Also make sure you don’t have any knock sensor codes, those sensors like to crack, and on a supercharged car, those sensors are VITAL to maintaining safe air/fuel ratios and spark timing. Arcing plug wires or coils or ignition modules could be suspect as well.
Cheers!
I’ve had to hammer a big screwdriver through a few filters over the years. (messy as hell) This is a last resort for sure but I’ve had much success doing it this way. I agree with Eric and others that this may be your best solution.
I’ve had to hammer a big screwdriver through a few filters over the years. (messy as hell) This is a last resort for sure but I’ve had much success doing it this way. I agree with Eric and others that this may be your best solution.
Make sure you have those heads checked by a machine shop prior to re-installing them. Also, you will get a new set of valve seals with your head gasket kit. Give those to the machine shop at the same time and have them installed. You will need new head bolts as they are torque to yield and can only be used once. Also I always get a new set of lower intake bolts for the same reason. Run a thread chaser down into the block for the head bolts (not a tap) and make sure everything is CLEAN when you reassemble. I’ve done many of these jobs. There’s also a seal on the oil pump drive, (it looks like the bottom half of a distributor) installed in the top of the engine block under where the throttle body would be that I also change. I would pop a new thermostat in while it’s apart, they’re a bugger to change when the engine is all assembled.
Cheers!
Make sure you have those heads checked by a machine shop prior to re-installing them. Also, you will get a new set of valve seals with your head gasket kit. Give those to the machine shop at the same time and have them installed. You will need new head bolts as they are torque to yield and can only be used once. Also I always get a new set of lower intake bolts for the same reason. Run a thread chaser down into the block for the head bolts (not a tap) and make sure everything is CLEAN when you reassemble. I’ve done many of these jobs. There’s also a seal on the oil pump drive, (it looks like the bottom half of a distributor) installed in the top of the engine block under where the throttle body would be that I also change. I would pop a new thermostat in while it’s apart, they’re a bugger to change when the engine is all assembled.
Cheers!
An STI powertrain swap sounds awesome Eric. Get some STI wheels and tires and shoot some cheapo flat black on the car. You won’t get your money back directly, but I’ll bet you’ll get more than a few smiles. 🙂 If I wasn’t 12 hours away I would gladly volunteer some labour on the project.
It’s worth it just to see the wide-eye look of disbelief on the face of some Porsche 911 yuppie owner you just left in your dust.
Cheers
An STI powertrain swap sounds awesome Eric. Get some STI wheels and tires and shoot some cheapo flat black on the car. You won’t get your money back directly, but I’ll bet you’ll get more than a few smiles. 🙂 If I wasn’t 12 hours away I would gladly volunteer some labour on the project.
It’s worth it just to see the wide-eye look of disbelief on the face of some Porsche 911 yuppie owner you just left in your dust.
Cheers
Hello!
My name is Jason McCoy and I’m from Ottawa, Canada. I’ve been working as a licensed technician here in Canada for quite a few years. I started out at a GM dealer and from there went to small independent shops where I honed skills in most makes and models. One place I worked at was also a body shop so I learned how to do that as well. I spent some time with Ford, as well as 4 years with Honda. I’m a Honda factory trained certified technician. I have left Honda in the last year to pursue opening my own shop.
I currently own 3 Ford Crown Victoria ex police cars and my spouse has a 2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS.
I look forward to hearing everyones stories, and helping out where I can.
Hello!
My name is Jason McCoy and I’m from Ottawa, Canada. I’ve been working as a licensed technician here in Canada for quite a few years. I started out at a GM dealer and from there went to small independent shops where I honed skills in most makes and models. One place I worked at was also a body shop so I learned how to do that as well. I spent some time with Ford, as well as 4 years with Honda. I’m a Honda factory trained certified technician. I have left Honda in the last year to pursue opening my own shop.
I currently own 3 Ford Crown Victoria ex police cars and my spouse has a 2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS.
I look forward to hearing everyones stories, and helping out where I can.
I have a grabber snake from Matco with a light on the grabbing end. This thing has saved me many hours of RE&RE to retrieve something I dropped. I also use it to start bolts in hard to reach areas. A real sweet tool.
I have a grabber snake from Matco with a light on the grabbing end. This thing has saved me many hours of RE&RE to retrieve something I dropped. I also use it to start bolts in hard to reach areas. A real sweet tool.
Had this same issue on my 89 Corsica 2.8L. I unplugged the TCC connector and left it like that for 3 years before the car went for scrap. Your MPG will suffer slightly. No other issues to worry about.
Had this same issue on my 89 Corsica 2.8L. I unplugged the TCC connector and left it like that for 3 years before the car went for scrap. Your MPG will suffer slightly. No other issues to worry about.
This is a sadly common problem on these engines. There aren’t enough threads on some cylinders to hold the plug in. There’s like 3 threads. Correct torque on the plugs is critical if you wish to avoid plug blowouts. In the future when you hear it start to tap, retorque all plugs ASAP. I also recommend that you use the TimeSert kit, as the others sometimes blow out. I’ve never seen a properly installed TimeSert blow out.
This is a sadly common problem on these engines. There aren’t enough threads on some cylinders to hold the plug in. There’s like 3 threads. Correct torque on the plugs is critical if you wish to avoid plug blowouts. In the future when you hear it start to tap, retorque all plugs ASAP. I also recommend that you use the TimeSert kit, as the others sometimes blow out. I’ve never seen a properly installed TimeSert blow out.