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Ended up being the ECU.
Hello Eric!
Thank you for everything that you have done with Eric the Car guy. I’ve been watching for about 5 years now and I’ve learned so much.
My question is about a 5th generation Honda Civic (1993) DX 1.5L automatic. In November of 2015 I had the ECU go out on me while I was driving home. I took it to the local Honda Dealership and they told me that it was the ECU. The car worked like normal after that. During spring this year I had the gear shift release stop working on me. I couldn’t take the car out of park without putting a key in the manual override. During the summer I replaced all the struts and with the car being 23 years old all the suspension had cracked bushings and what not. For the next three months I spent working on the suspension and replaced almost everything. While the car was down I replaced the safety natural switch thinking that was the only thing that was wrong without actually troubleshooting. Went to take the car for an alignment and still had the same problem. Stuck in park. Since then, I’ve had some free time to actually find the problem and I’m stuck. I download the service manual for the car and I went to the electrical portion. I saw that there was a shift lock solenoid, multiple fuses, a key interlock system, interlock control unit and the shift lever position switch (aka safety neutral switch). I thought the interlock control unit was bad. I went to the local junk yard and got the interlock control unit and another shift lock solenoid. Came home and put them both in and still have the same problem. I found the page on how to test the interlock control unit page 23-151. I followed all the test conditions. I wrote those down on the circuit diagram picture. I’m having a problem with the white/red wire. The possible causes are 1.) faulty ECU 2) open in the white/red wire to the ECU 3) faulty brake light switch 4) faulty throttle angle sensor (TPS). I went to the ECU on the passenger floor board and looked up a diagram of the computers wire harness. I found out that the white/red wire goes directly into in on connector D pin 18. I checked continuity between the ECU unplugged connector D to white/red wire on unplugged Interlock control unit and they are connected. There is no open in the wire. I have brake lights so the brake light switch on the brake pedal works. I checked the throttle positioning sensory on the throttle body. I put my meter negative to ground (battery ground) and put my positive on the red/green wire. The manual says I should see .5v when fully closed and 4.5v fully open. Between closed to open manually opening and closing the throttle should be a smooth voltage and it was. That rules out the TPS being a subject. The only thing that leaves is a faulty ECU. I got the ECU replaced November 24, 2015 and it cost me $511. Should I take the car back to Honda and tell them and show them what I found? Did I brake any warranty coverage by finding the problem myself? What are your thoughts on this? I thought about going to the junk yard and getting one to test it out. They would cost $35 but I’m not sure if all computer are the same between the 5th gen Honda Civics. Could I have looked over something and it be something else? I’m not sure what to do now. I still have my receipt and it says that all parts are new unless otherwise noted with a 12 month or 12,000 mile warranty. I only put 5,000 miles on this car in that time frame. Would I have to pay for labor and all that over again? I know you did a video on warranty work but I forget what you said. I’ll have to go back and rewatch it.
Eric again, thank you for everything that you have done with Eric the Car Guy. You’ve created something awesome. Please keep up all your hard work and dedication to what you love doing. STAY DIRTY!!
P.S. I’m from Columbus Ohio. I’ll have to come down to one of the meet ups and introduce myself.Attachments:More photos.
Attachments:I did just find this but I don’t know where those two parts are at that the yellow wires come from. The interlock control unit or the J/C C417. I’ll have to look for the 15 amp fuse.
Attachments:People have done studies on youtube using a dyno. They tried every single combination of a cold air intake. From having no filter at all to even running a hose outside of the car. The best gain they saw was about 3HP and that was from the house outside of the car blowing a big fan into the house.
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