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They did put a clamp on it and the dealership the noise was coming from within the CAT. But, I only hear the noise on startup. That’s why I’m confused if the internals of the CAT were not functioning wouldn’t I fail emissions and have a problem across the board. Not just when starting my car up after sitting for a few hours.
Thanks Tedy, I’ll probably try the mallet test and see if anything is clunking around. I did fix a lot exhaust problems I had a few months ago (y-pipe, mid-pipe, and rusted flanges), so I’m not sure if that’s that the case.
If the CAT was toast though would I still be able to pass emissions?
Thanks Tedy, I’ll probably try the mallet test and see if anything is clunking around. I did fix a lot exhaust problems I had a few months ago (y-pipe, mid-pipe, and rusted flanges), so I’m not sure if that’s that the case.
If the CAT was toast though would I still be able to pass emissions?
Yep, it was the o-ring between the brake booster and master cylinder. My car is 99.9% fixed bank 1 still runs about 10% slightly leaner than bank 2. The fuel pressure was 51PSI, which is what it should be for my car, so could I have a dirty injector in bank 1?
Yep, it was the o-ring between the brake booster and master cylinder. My car is 99.9% fixed bank 1 still runs about 10% slightly leaner than bank 2. The fuel pressure was 51PSI, which is what it should be for my car, so could I have a dirty injector in bank 1?
Hi Eric,
Yes, I did a power balance test and luckily I have Nissan’s diagnostic software, so I was able to do it electronically. The engine responded to every injector that I turned off. I’m pretty sure I narrowed it down to either the booster itself or the seal between the master cylinder and booster. If I leave the booster completely out of the equation and hook my gauge to where the booster connects it idles normally. As soon as the booster is attached my readings go off the charts. I’ll post back when I fix this problem and hopefully it helps with my gas consumption. Again, thanks for all your vids I have literally watched them for hours and helped saved tons of money!
Hi Eric,
Yes, I did a power balance test and luckily I have Nissan’s diagnostic software, so I was able to do it electronically. The engine responded to every injector that I turned off. I’m pretty sure I narrowed it down to either the booster itself or the seal between the master cylinder and booster. If I leave the booster completely out of the equation and hook my gauge to where the booster connects it idles normally. As soon as the booster is attached my readings go off the charts. I’ll post back when I fix this problem and hopefully it helps with my gas consumption. Again, thanks for all your vids I have literally watched them for hours and helped saved tons of money!
I’m 99.99% sure it’s the stupid brake booster or the hard line behind the firewall. I was hooking my vacuum gauge (Thanks for the vid Eric) to the test port on the manifold. Getting those weird readings, so I hooked it directly to the booster port on the manifold and it steadied out and the fuel trims went down 10-20% immediately without having to mess with the ECU. I then reversed the booster line with the check valve (didn’t drive it) and got the same results.
I did notice several months ago that it hisses where my booster is and when I asked my mechanic about it; I was told it’s normal???
I’m 99.99% sure it’s the stupid brake booster or the hard line behind the firewall. I was hooking my vacuum gauge (Thanks for the vid Eric) to the test port on the manifold. Getting those weird readings, so I hooked it directly to the booster port on the manifold and it steadied out and the fuel trims went down 10-20% immediately without having to mess with the ECU. I then reversed the booster line with the check valve (didn’t drive it) and got the same results.
I did notice several months ago that it hisses where my booster is and when I asked my mechanic about it; I was told it’s normal???
Hi Eric,
I actually used full silicone replacement hoses not RTV to fix my lines.
Well, I quadruple checked everything before I reassembled it. All three marks on the primary chain were aligned with their respective time marking. Cylinder one was also at TDC on compression stroke when I did all of it. I was also told that on this engine if I was a tooth or more off it would be damaged by now, lol.
When I monitored the car using Nissan’s software everything looked according to spec. It’s just that it loses vacuum from 22hg to 19hg when the ECU tries to reset the fuel trim to 100%. That is also when it runs rough and then goes back to 135%. It’s almost like the engine is saying “Hey, I can’t run smooth at 100% I need that extra 35%”. Everything smooths out when it goes back that high.
I also had this lean condition before the chain was done, I don’t know if I put that in my original message. Sorry if I forgot to.
I’m working on building a smoke machine it’s almost done and hopefully it might find a hole I can’t notice.
The only noticeable difference is that the voltages between both pre O2 sensors is extremely off. That didn’t change either when I swapped them with another set.
Can this be caused by bad spark plugs (thought I’d see rich instead), sticky valves or anything like that?
The only thing I haven’t checked is the fuel pump, fuel pressure, and the actual fuel injectors. If I had a fuel problem wouldn’t it be across the whole spectrum though and not just idle?
Could it be the exhaust manifold or flange connecting to the cat is leaking and I just can’t see it?
Hi Eric,
I actually used full silicone replacement hoses not RTV to fix my lines.
Well, I quadruple checked everything before I reassembled it. All three marks on the primary chain were aligned with their respective time marking. Cylinder one was also at TDC on compression stroke when I did all of it. I was also told that on this engine if I was a tooth or more off it would be damaged by now, lol.
When I monitored the car using Nissan’s software everything looked according to spec. It’s just that it loses vacuum from 22hg to 19hg when the ECU tries to reset the fuel trim to 100%. That is also when it runs rough and then goes back to 135%. It’s almost like the engine is saying “Hey, I can’t run smooth at 100% I need that extra 35%”. Everything smooths out when it goes back that high.
I also had this lean condition before the chain was done, I don’t know if I put that in my original message. Sorry if I forgot to.
I’m working on building a smoke machine it’s almost done and hopefully it might find a hole I can’t notice.
The only noticeable difference is that the voltages between both pre O2 sensors is extremely off. That didn’t change either when I swapped them with another set.
Can this be caused by bad spark plugs (thought I’d see rich instead), sticky valves or anything like that?
The only thing I haven’t checked is the fuel pump, fuel pressure, and the actual fuel injectors. If I had a fuel problem wouldn’t it be across the whole spectrum though and not just idle?
Could it be the exhaust manifold or flange connecting to the cat is leaking and I just can’t see it?
Thanks, I bought a whole kit for my car and they came with it. I’ve been pretty happy with them so far, but I’ll keep an eye out if anything weird happens.
I didn’t think abut using a fog machine it would probably have been easier, lol. I have a regulator on my compressor to lower it down to a couple PSI.
Thanks, I bought a whole kit for my car and they came with it. I’ve been pretty happy with them so far, but I’ll keep an eye out if anything weird happens.
I didn’t think abut using a fog machine it would probably have been easier, lol. I have a regulator on my compressor to lower it down to a couple PSI.
I’m using Consult 3 to do all my tests and read the data. I have some screenshots from Consult 3 running at idle and after revving to 3K for 5 minutes.
I went into work support mode set the self learning to 100% and can watch it climb up to 110%.
IDLE graph: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/IDLE-1.jpg.html
IDLE: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/1.jpg.html
When Idle drops: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/2.jpg.html
Revving at 3K for 5 mins:
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/AFTER2.jpg.html
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/AFTER1.jpg.html
FreezeFrame: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/P0171.jpg.htmlThe voltage difference between both sensors bothers me. These were taken before I put the user A/F sensors in, but the results are the same regardless.
I’m using Consult 3 to do all my tests and read the data. I have some screenshots from Consult 3 running at idle and after revving to 3K for 5 minutes.
I went into work support mode set the self learning to 100% and can watch it climb up to 110%.
IDLE graph: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/IDLE-1.jpg.html
IDLE: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/1.jpg.html
When Idle drops: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/2.jpg.html
Revving at 3K for 5 mins:
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/AFTER2.jpg.html
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/AFTER1.jpg.html
FreezeFrame: http://s50.photobucket.com/user/coffeysm/media/P0171.jpg.htmlThe voltage difference between both sensors bothers me. These were taken before I put the user A/F sensors in, but the results are the same regardless.
