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A leaky oil switch if bad enough will leak a lot. They are generally located near the oil filter. It’s cheap enough to throw that part in and see if it works. Ten bucks and some for shipping (don’t get the cheap ones):
Did you try a voltage drop test? Use multimeter with red lead on battery post and black lead on the terminal connector. If there is a drop of more than 0.5 V, then you may need to clean the terminal connectors and posts. Even if the battery is fully charged, if that charge can’t flow from the battery posts into the terminals, nothing will work right.
If that passes, then there is an issue with the connection between battery to starter. Could be a faulty ground or some other connection issue. Probably not fuse or relay since it is intermittent, but wouldn’t hurt to check those too. I’ve had an issue in my car where the connection between the battery terminals and the fuse/relay box was not good. Wiggling it would get the car to start again so I figured out which position was best and bolted the terminal to the post in that position.
There are upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. It could be the lower one leaking which would explain all of your symptoms.
Otherwise, it could be valve stem seals or cylinder rings.
You could perform a leakdown test and that could confirm a leak in that cylinder. Valve stem seals come with a headgasket kit so that’s what I’d get if you pass the leakdown test. I’d take it to a shop so a pro can do the leakdown test that way there is no doubt. If you pass, it’s headgasket/valve seals.
Clogged catalytic converter or maybe faulty O2 sensor causing engine to run rich and leading to extra combustion in the manifold… like an afterburner!
Don’t keep driving it as you are most likely damaging your head if the manifold is getting that hot.
You could drop the oil pan and check main and rod bearing clearances as that is the most likely area to contribute to metal in the oil. If they are out of spec, you could get a machine shop to resurface the crank and and recommend a new bearing set. It isn’t a very hard job if you have a repair manual and it is a lot cheaper than a new engine/truck.
If you have exhaust going into the oil, then it is a head gasket leak. The excess gases going into your oil is causing it to dirty quickly. If oil is getting into the cylinder, then it will be dark and ugly like what you saw with your bore scope. The plugs should also be dark and fouled.
I’m guessing the head gasket is just worn out after all the mileage and needs to be replaced. If you didn’t overheat the engine, the head should still be straight but double check with a straight edge and feeler gauges if you do it yourself. Otherwise a shop will do all of this anyway. If the head is warped, they will send it to a machine shop to be resurfaced and made flat, they may also do a valve job while they have the head off.