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I am using a STEELMAN 97202 Wireless ChassisEAR, interesting point you just raised. So a noise could be out of range for the device?
The first test I did I hooked up one of the probes to the rear exhaust manifold bolt. That didn’t turn up the noise. Figured that back part should carry the noise since the exhaust is flow out but maybe I will try to get a different spot.
This tool is an electronic listening ear that Clips onto whatever part of the engine I want and then I listen to it via a remote unit inside the cockpit so it’s actually pretty easy so long as I can find a good point to clip the device to.
Thanks for the reply! Just ordered new plugs, rotor, and plug wires. Im almost sure they have never been been done on the car. I did have a random misfire code a week ago. I’m at 105k so it’s def due.
Never have had engine pinging before so it does sounds like a rattling lose bolt?
Could I put my listening tool somewhere on the engine to hear it, wonder what a good spot would be.
Thanks DrD,
I ended up going to harbor freight and picking up an impact hex bit set and then impacted with my air gun back and forth. It worked! I think the fluid being in there for a few days helped and I was able to get the bolt out. The impact bit is a hair thicker then the regular bit which help snug.
Thanks!
I know this is OLD but in case anyone runs into this issue. The 4.7 durango (mine is a 2000) has a bleeder screw on top by the engine block near the top hose. The hose with the thermostat cap. That bleeder MUST be opened when refilling. You refill via the cap not the reservoir tank.
This is from factory manual on draining btw.
“On the 4.7L engine the thermostat is an inlet side thermostat. This means that the engine coolant will not drain when the radiator drain petcock is opened. It will be necessary to remove the thermo-stat housing and thermostat to allow the coolant trapped in the engine block to drain. ”
After loosening the hose (at the bottom) and taking thermostat out, Drain the block plug.