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Thought I already replied but it’s not here. I made the wiring harness today and found where to tap in. I hope to finish everything Saturday or Monday. I don’t have time before then to do anything else but all I need to do is remove the seats, pull back the carpet on the drivers side and hook up the harness then install the seats.
The wire I need to tap is right under the dash. It helped that it is the same color as the wiring on the seat plug pigtail (white wire, green stripe). Made me feel better that what I was told about the cars with electric seats taping in at the power window circuit was correct. There are no other white wires with green stripes anywhere under the dash in that area.
Thanks, Eric!
Thanks, Eric!
Thanks, will do. Timing is between the 2nd dot and third dot(3 dots left of TDC). Is that good enough or should I move it to the middle dot?
Thanks, will do. Timing is between the 2nd dot and third dot(3 dots left of TDC). Is that good enough or should I move it to the middle dot?
I finished adjusting the valves today (ETCG video) and put fluids back in the car and started it. It sounds really good. No water pump leaks yet, I let it get up to operating temp so the thermostat is popped and the pressure is there.
I finished adjusting the valves today (ETCG video) and put fluids back in the car and started it. It sounds really good. No water pump leaks yet, I let it get up to operating temp so the thermostat is popped and the pressure is there.
Seller of the seat sold me the pigtail connector from the power harness. So if the generic connector doesn’t match up, this one will and make it easier to make my harness if I can finish the Honda and get started.
Seller of the seat sold me the pigtail connector from the power harness. So if the generic connector doesn’t match up, this one will and make it easier to make my harness if I can finish the Honda and get started.
Almost done, putting exhaust back, crossmembers, adjusting valves, don’t have that much free time but I think I’ll be ready to start it tomorrow evening.
Almost done, putting exhaust back, crossmembers, adjusting valves, don’t have that much free time but I think I’ll be ready to start it tomorrow evening.
That part is fine, you just remove the part of the motor mount from the block to take pressure off that bolt. Of course if I don’t have enough pressure, I’ll have to get the bolt out to remove the washer. But it’s 243 blue, not red, I think I can overcome it with a breaker bar pretty easily.
I just hope it works the first time. Just got the belts on and lined up, tensioner tightened. Got a lot yet to do, exhaust, crossmember, valve adjustment. But I’m getting there. Cam wheel lined up the first time. Feel like something is wrong when it goes correctly the first time.
That part is fine, you just remove the part of the motor mount from the block to take pressure off that bolt. Of course if I don’t have enough pressure, I’ll have to get the bolt out to remove the washer. But it’s 243 blue, not red, I think I can overcome it with a breaker bar pretty easily.
I just hope it works the first time. Just got the belts on and lined up, tensioner tightened. Got a lot yet to do, exhaust, crossmember, valve adjustment. But I’m getting there. Cam wheel lined up the first time. Feel like something is wrong when it goes correctly the first time.
OK, here’s pictures. Of course the worst thing is not knowing how much force is applied to the water pump. It feels good with one washer but it may need no washers in which case, a lot of work to be done if it leaks. I backed it back out after I was done and locktited the crap out of the 10M bolt. And then cranked it down hard. You can see from the shots from the top that the bolt is perfectly centered on the head of the stripped water pump bolt. And the diameter of the bolt is the same size as the head of the stripped bolt. And yes a 17mm socket does fit over the head of the bolt. The bolt is 10m-1.50 X 30mm. The nut of course is just a 10M -1.50 flange nut.
OK, here’s pictures. Of course the worst thing is not knowing how much force is applied to the water pump. It feels good with one washer but it may need no washers in which case, a lot of work to be done if it leaks. I backed it back out after I was done and locktited the crap out of the 10M bolt. And then cranked it down hard. You can see from the shots from the top that the bolt is perfectly centered on the head of the stripped water pump bolt. And the diameter of the bolt is the same size as the head of the stripped bolt. And yes a 17mm socket does fit over the head of the bolt. The bolt is 10m-1.50 X 30mm. The nut of course is just a 10M -1.50 flange nut.
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