Forum Replies Created
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Quoted From yarddog1950:
Nice work, guy.
That’s a crappy repair but it wouldn’t necessarily not provide ground. Try the new cable and make sure the point where it mounts to the frame is clean with metal to metal contact.
Quoted From F150guy82:
that’s not my repair work.. what someone else did that. i would never do that. now i have to buy a new cable
No, I just meant that the repair the other person did looks bad but it might provide ground just fine. There is a lot of metal to metal contact where the two cables are connected.
Quoted From Beefy:
Personally, I like to stick with OEM-ish stuff, if you aren’t upping the performance of the car. You could probably do the pads/rotors for 1/3 the price of that kit. If the bearings aren’t bad, I wouldn’t mess with ’em. That’s just me.
I think you are right about the leaving the bearings alone, but the rotors are $75 each and the bearings $61 each discount if that all has to be replaced. Hubs would make the total even higher if the bearings ate up the hubs. So if it needed bearings, the choice is less clear. I just wonder how much longer my bearings will last 219,000 seems like overtime.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
I would replace the rotors and bearings if you plan on keeping the vehicle. If not, just have the rotors machined while there on the vehicle. make sure you use a quality pad though.
I plan to keep the car until it either is not cost effective to fix or someone hits it and totals it. So as far as I can go with it.
Quoted From johnbkobb:
I think I would check the price on a bearing removal tool kit that you could use to remove the bearings when needed. It would probably work on other vehicles too and you would have it for your next vehicle and an addition to your tool box.
Maybe this? http://www.amazon.com/4579-9-Way-Slide- … 079&sr=8-4 if I am going to change the bearings anyway….
Is this helpful?
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Bearing-Rac … sim_auto_2Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
W-| If you perform the procedure in the video that I made replacing the bearings is NOT necessary as you never have to separate them the OE bearings last a good lone time and don’t often have problems even at high mileage, it’s when you try and ‘short cut’ the job by just slide hammering the hub off splitting the bearing that the bearing problems come up. MANY have asked about the conversion in the past and I’ll respond the same way I always do, if you want to spend the money and do the extra work now to save yourself a little time in the future go for it but if you follow what’s in the video it’s really not that bad and you can set yourself up for the ‘next time’ by lubricating the right parts and cleaning them before reassembly. I still stand by the on-the-car machining as this is a VERY affordable solution and yields great results.
Thanks, I was going by the idea of replacing the bearings so it didn’t matter if I split them. But if 220,000 isn’t necessarily the end for the bearings, I’ll mic the rotors and if there is enough thickness left have them turned on the car once I can’t stand the pulsing anymore. If they have to be replaced, I’ll just do the rotors and then later if I need to to the bearings, I’ll do that.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Here’s a video that I did on replacing those rotors if this is the type you have, the 6 cylinder Accords had slip on rotors that do not require this procedure. If there is enough material remaining on the rotors all you would need to do is have them machined on the car you just need to find a shop with an ‘on-the-car’ brake lathe, this would save you a great deal of money and effort.
It’s a four. Thanks for the link. I think the rotors are original, I guess I could have them miked and see if there is room to have them turned. The pulsing isn’t that bad, might just let it go for now and have them miked to see how worn they are.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Here’s a video that I did on replacing those rotors if this is the type you have, the 6 cylinder Accords had slip on rotors that do not require this procedure. If there is enough material remaining on the rotors all you would need to do is have them machined on the car you just need to find a shop with an ‘on-the-car’ brake lathe, this would save you a great deal of money and effort.
I hate to open it up because the wheel bearings have 219,000 miles. I guess I could ignore that and just do the rotors if needed. Probably all of it needs to be done but they aren’t making any noise. If I can live with the rotors or get them turned, I think it would be better to wait until it needs a wheel bearing. The car only gets driven about 6000 miles per year. Will the wheel bearings give any warning when they go before they take out the hub?
Quoted From fitone:
I would just deal with having the rotors turned on the car for now. If you were to replace the rotors then at that point in time replace the wheel bearings. Bearings will start to make a thumping noise with no warning in the Honda’s that I have owned.
Eric and all: What do you guys think of this conversion, the top one would fit my car it replaces the hubs and bearings and converts them to slide on rotors. Comes with hubs, bearings already fit and slide on rotors and pads for $399. I’m going to mic my rotors and see. If they are too thin, maybe wait until I need pads anyway and then do this?
Quoted From college man:
if the pulsation is felt in the steering wheel when the brakes are applied. then your rotors are warped
and need machining or replacement.C8-)I know, I’m just trying to confirm that it’s a huge deal to replace the rotors, Honda wants almost $600.
I hear you Eric, but the Honda’s struts were not leaking and they were shot. Also, the KYB replacements are ok, it’s a 1995 Accord, I guess I don’t drive it aggressively enough to notice, LOL.
Quoted From Beefy:
Well, I’m glad you got yer ride fixed for next to nothing man. Well done.
Thanks for the help, I definitely learned something. At some point, I need to look at Eric’s video on removing the valve train again since I need to replace the lower spark plug tube seals. That one worries me a bit, but I’ll just take my time with it.
Quoted From Bad_dude:
There’s more to strut testing then a bounce test. I have a 90 Accord with all original struts. They are still doing well and pretty stiff. The bounce test only works on real bad struts. There are little bounce that we can’t test but only a computerized machine could. Unless you are racing or real picky, most people won’t mind as long as they don’t bounce like mad. As soon as I get a job, I am replacing the struts. The KYBs are real nice at only $50 a piece. They are a little better than the OEM ones.
It’s weird though because my 95 accord needed shocks (accords are technically coil over shocks, not struts) by 150,000 and when I changed them (KYBs) at 185,000 they were awful. If you went over a big dip, it felt like the car was going to bounce off the road. The Subaru needed rear struts at 180,000, I changed them. It needed springs too and I just bought used struts/springs off ebay from another legacy with 80,000 miles. Anyway, the fronts still feel great. They don’t even feel bad which is why I thought it was strange because the rears (and springs) went 50,000 miles ago and the Accord’s didn’t really make it past 160,000.
Quoted From Bad_dude:
Is it possible that you don’t have a broken inner rod and just a bent one? I would follow Eric’s advice. You have to check for evidence to warrant a repair.
Took it to the alignment shop, they replaced the outer tie rod for next to nothing (I brought them the OEM part). They said it tightened it up and they were able to align it. Thanks all. I guess everything is suspect to me since the car has 219,000 and all the suspension but the shocks is original. But they said everything else is tight.