[Clay]

Thanks so much! I haven’t read your links yet, but if I understand correctly what you’re saying is I can get a ECM/Immobilizer/Lock cylinder combo and not have to reprogram it as long as all three come from the same car? Does it have to be a 2000 or can it be 1999-2003?

[Clay]

Yeah, I figured as much. I’ll do a little more digging over the weekend before towing it in on Monday. Thanks for your help

[Clay]

That’s correct, key was in the ignition position. Also went back to off before trying to start

[Clay]

Yes, I did, 5 soconds tined with a stopwatch. How long should the key stay off before repeating? I just went immediately back to KOEO, maybe that could be the problem? Or maybe I damaged the junction box when I pulled the fuse. There wasn’t a lot of room to get my needle nose on the fuse, there was some wiggling and jiggling in order to get it out. I just think it would be a hell of a coincidence if the key decided to fail immediately after all this, it’s almost surely something I did, just not sure what lol

[Clay]

Thanks for your response! Since posting this, I’ve found a 12v input 5kw/10kw output inverter. Still gonna run dual batteries, definitely gonna look into a high output alternator, but I don’t have to worry about adding a 24v circuit anymore so it’ll be much easier this way. I think lol

[Clay]

Yup, then a month later I pulled the engine and trans to fix the oil leak from hell. Rear main, intake, timing cover, and oil pan.
I almost wish I would have done it all with the engine and trans stil in the truck, haha putting it back together has been an ass kicker.

[Clay]

Nah, you’re good. Just giving you a hard time.
Only thing I could find with that tranny was i left the pressure plate bolts hand tight and they backed themselves out a little bit, so we’re gonna throw it back together today and hope to god it works.

[Clay]

Close, but no cigar haha. It came unclipped from the back of the engine and the connector melted on the downpipe.
The fuse problem I found was a bad connection on the underside of the distribution block from the relay to the fuse

[Clay]

Who said it was a a clutch job? Lol all this started over oil seals and engine gaskets

[Clay]

God, I hope! This has been an ass kicker. Going on 2 months now and it all started with oil seals and engine gaskets.

[Clay]

Sorry for the late response.
I bled it, and bled it, and bled it and couldn’t ever get pressure, then I found that slave line popped out, fixed that replaced the clutch master, bled it and got pressure but the clutch still wouldn’t release. Then, I discovered the bolts on the pressure plate got left hand tight and backed themselves out, I’m really hoping that was the problem. I’m in the middle of putting it back together now

[Clay]

That really sounds like a vacuum leak to me.
When you first start it up, what does the engine sound like? Does it wind up, then come back down and idle rough or does it just start and immediately have the rough idle?

[Clay]

Alright now I gotcha.
Sorry for the confusion, I’m not all here today lol

[Clay]

[quote=”nightflyr” post=155432][quote=”Clayhawk75″ post=155424]The battery was unhooked overnight, should I still look into that?[/quote]
I think you misunderstood my comment.
In normal operation:
Once the ignition is switched off and you exit the car.
It takes time for the systems in the car to go to “sleep”
How much time?
That depends on the manufacturer.
Could be as little as 1 minute or as high as 20 minutes or more[/quote]
I think we’re still misunderstanding each other.
I took the battery to autozone to get it tested yesterday, and never hooked it back up. This morning when I went to do my draw testing, I only hooked up the positive terminal, never started the engine, never opened the doors, I did literally nothing but hook up the positive and start my draw testing.
With the battery being unhooked overnight, the systems should be drained, right?

[Clay]

The battery was unhooked overnight, should I still look into that?

[Author]

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