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“I can’t afford to hire lawyers and go to small claims court”
In that case, escalate problem to Toyota area manager along with documentation and an independent shop analysis of the problem.
A professional third party diagnoses may help to move this along.Let us know your progress and good luck.
The dealer can quickly do current ramping compression test to spot the cylinder/cylinders that have weak compression. This will give them a basis to do further leak down test to determine where compression is being lost.
The 100 psi you measured should easily show up on the current ramp test.
The 150/160psi seems low. I would think that all should be close to 180 since engine has low mileage.By comparison my 2007 2.7, 95% stop/go 50,000 miles, reads within 5% of 180psi across all cylinders.
Hope you can get a warranty fix. Sometimes the dealer doesn’t like to look to deeply into warranty issues.
Need to hold their feet to the fire.Good job finding the compression problem. Time to get it documented by Toyota before warranty runs out..
Since runs on some cylinders than cam/crank sig probable ok. For those coil that have intermittent spark need to verify circuit and PCM pulse.
Things to do
Mechanical- see i f you can reproduce no spark by moving/jiggling coil connector/wires.
Electrical – scope PCM pulse circuit to coil for intermittent signal.If you have a voltmeter you could do some quick diagnosis to see if there is abnormal amount of voltage drop in the starter circuit.
If not then remove/clean battery terminal connectors positive/negative, chassis ground, starter terminal bat/solenoid.Regarding the key start/run sequence, you say it has always been such, so sluggish crank probably not related.
OP says – I have an exhaust leak on the manifold at cylinder #1 and a P0171. The exhaust leak may skew the O2 sensor setting P0171.
Since TB replacements seem to cure the problem for a year at a time, could be the TPS/connector/wiring becoming intermittent in cold.
If PCM loses track of the TPS signal likely the engine will go into limp home mode( transmission locks in a lower gear.)
Shutting off/ restarting engine apparently resets error.Is there a check engine light or error code when the problem happens?
A 600$ repair must have been the TB including IAC/TPS.
It could well be that the entire TB doesn’t need replacing, if you can get a more accurate diagnosis.Ok adding fuel at higher RPM so probably not vacuum leak .
The MAF readings seem low especially at higher RPM/ I would think it should be at least 10 lb/m at 3000RPM.
What engine do you have and is it all stock?
You”ll have to research what the MAF spec is but if it is reading low than that would account for the high fuel trims.You might try tapping on the MAF sensor to see if reading changes.
The idle/IAC may be another issue. Need to get a reading on it and TP
Ok, verify MAF with scanner than you’ll have to measure voltages for IAC/TP.
Also confirm that LFT stay high at higer RPMs . Hold for 30 sec at 3000 RPMS. What do they read?
Trying to determine if there is a vacuum leak causing high trims.
Have you tried locating a leak with water bottle- watching for bubbles?