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Normally PCV is changed are a preventive measure. No obvious problem is being addressed and you will not feel any difference afterward.
Only the satisfaction knowing that PCV is working 100% keeping crankcase oil clean of diluting fuel from piston blow by and reducing crank case pressure so as not to damage engine seals.If your mechanic confirms normal engine oil consumption and not a stuck PCV, he’s probably right.
Repair of heater core, possible cat converter,cylinder misfire, PCM to ABS and transmission communication problem.
This may not be worth repairing.
You could temp bypass heater core to verify leak and to ascertain rest of cooling system.
Verify if error codes are current/ continuing.Problem got worse after O ring install correct?
Have you tried to reinstall O ring( lubricate before install/ not rolled/pinched).
O ring not present on inlet wonder if it deteriorated and got sucked into pump at some point.
Complete system flush is in order.“How do I get the air out which would (I’m guessing) stop the foaming / bubbling /overflowing?”
Realize if any air entering, then system won’t bled and can cause fluid aeration.
Incorrect amount of fluid can also cause foaming/bubbling.Have you had to add fluid in past? Reservoir level ever low?
If so then leak somewhere in system.If not then pump itself or steering rack may be failing.
LTFT 10plus/minus is close enough for engine to be running normally.
If MAP/ECT/IAT/RPM/TPS are within spec probably no much room for improvement.Has the total -10 trim at idle been there all along or was closer to 0 at one time?
With key on engine off, if scanner communicating then you should be able to read MAP,ECT, IAT before starting the engine.
MAP should read barometric pressure and on cold engine ECT=IAT.Was wondering if the MAP reading is around 27 inHg, your altitude, with engine off.
Can you post map reading KOEO?
The combined LT/ST trims average around -10 . Was it closer to 0 at one time?
–If you have no way to measure voltage/resistance then best you can do is substitute known good relay.
If you have no other codes then probably don’t have other symptoms caused by bad relay.Take a look at bbbind.com for a electrical schematic. There may be a link between the two codes from a common fuse/circuit/relay.
Note fuse 11 A/F sensor relay.Since there are no error codes try doing a drive cycle or two, to complete cat monitor.
Here is a typical Honda Accord drive cycle. Driving your Honda Accord in the manner below should make the required Emission Monitors “Ready”. Before you start the Drive Cycle make sure your Honda Accord’s fuel level is between 1/4 and 3/4, otherwise the EVAP test won’t run. Make sure to obey all traffic laws while performing the drive cycle.
1. Begin by idling the engine while 2 1/2 minutes. Next idle for another 2 1/2 minutes with the A/C compressor and rear defroster on and while the transmission is in Drive (D); only of automatic transmission. This part of the drive cycle checks the oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge system.
2. Turn the A/C compressor off and rear window defroster off and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and EVAP canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for 3 minutes. The computer will now be testing the EGR system, air injection pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch). Once again the computer system will check EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. During this step the OBDII system will look for misfires, fuel trim and EVAP purge.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for 5 minutes. Catalytic converter efficiency, EGR flow, ignition misfire, fuel trim, EVAP system and oxygen sensors operation will now be checked.
7. Decelerate to a stop without braking (or depressing clutch). The OBDII system will complete the drive cycle at this point.
We recommend completing this drive cycle at least twice in order to insure all required parameters have been met.
Take a look at the error code cause, suggest more of a sensor heater circuit problem. The sensor itself or circuit could be at fault.
Disconnect sensor from circuit and measure sensor heater resistance if normal then check circuit/ wiring/ECM etc.Scooty mentioned that his dash voltmeter read 12.8-12.9 wondering what he measure with his own voltmeter.
Car’s Voltmeter (on the dash) reads about 12.8-12.9 volts while driving.
What does your voltmeter read engine running?
If you have no cam/crank sensors/circuit error codes then likely problem originating in security system since light indicates an error.
Suggest go thru the pass-lock security setup sequence, sorry don’t have the procedure, or disconnect battery for a while to see if resetting control module has an effect.