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I noticed that when I turn the key to the “ON” position for a couple of seconds before starting, it starts normally
How’s the fuel pressure? How long does it take to reach full pressure after you turn the key to the “ON” position? How long should it take?
Imagine that your fuel system is having trouble reaching full pressure as quickly as it used to (due to a leak in the system, a bad pump, faulty wiring, etc). Could that explain what you’re seeing?
The rear cam gear is tight and can’t be moved without a wrench as I would expect.
Not familiar with this engine, but does the rear of the cam rotate if you rotate the front of the cam by a small amount?
This appears to be the way to measure fuel pressure on that vintage Accord:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20983&d=1241819969
This should be the first step given that the fix in Eric’s video applies only if fuel pressure is an issue. Even then, you’d want to rule out other possible causes of a fuel pressure issue, such as wiring fault to the fuel pump.
I haven’t been able to find any guides on diagnosing the problem with a multimeter and I don’t know exactly how to use one.
You’ll find the answers to many of your questions on this channel:
How did your mechanic friend check the mechanical and electrical timing? Mechanical timing is checked by placing the engine at top dead center and making sure camshaft and crankshaft marks are perfectly aligned. This requires the valve cover to be taken off. If the valve cover wasn’t pulled, mechanical timing wasn’t checked and could be way off.
A little searching found several cases of the problem you’re seeing. On one thread, the Original poster reports that the cause was a timing belt that had slipped (in other words, a mechanical timing issue):
http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/white-smoke-out-of-intake-is-bad.40931/page-4#post-695788
Solving the mechanical timing issue eliminated the problem, apparently.
Regardless, any explanation must account for positive pressure at the air intake, something that should never happen.
With that said, the car will turn over and fire, but the engine only runs for 2-3 seconds and then stalls. I’m not sure what could be causing this. My best guess is the IACV or fuel pressure regulator…..I’m not 100% sure
There’s not a lot to go on here, but you might consider the information given in this video:
and on this thread:
The same problem has been described here, and the cause is a timing belt that has jumped a tooth:
Here is a diagnosis given there:
1. Unplug the crank sensor.
2. Start the engine.
3. If it runs without shutting off, your engine timing has jumped.However, I suspect you could diagnose the problem simply by setting the camshaft to TDC and noting whether the crankshaft mark lines up properly.
Here’s the technical explanation:
The engine has 2 timing sensors; the cam sensor and the crank sensor. It uses the cam sensor to start the engine since this one can tell the engine which cylinder is in position for starting. Once started, it uses both sensors to run the engine. If the signals are off, it stalls to protect the motor (or try anyway). It can actually run on just the cam sensor so if the crank sensor fails, the car won’t die.
And here’s one way this can happen if you’re not careful during a timing belt change:
My problem was simple but impossible to figure out until i researched the hell out of it. If you recall there is a strange looking slotted washer that is behind the crankshaft pulley. Well it also only goes on one way and since i had it flipped over (it’s slightly concave) the wrong way it made the crank shaft pulley and timing belt sit ever so slightly out of alignment with the other pulleys. Well this caused it to rub and gradually wear down till it was about a quarter of an inch wide, which obviously made it weaker until the engine jumped a few teeth and wouldn’t run anymore.
Side story is that i couldn’t figure this out for a long time. 2 days of taking it apart and putting it back together, just to start it and hear that it was still rubbing. I think i did it 4 times before i finally found this washer… Nearly in tears from basically going through an panic attack from frustration.
By “strange looking slotted washer”, I believe the poster is referring to the “timing belt guide plate” as described in the 1996-2000 service manual, page 6-16.
And here’s a thorough diagnosis:
In one of the (many) comments on that video is this gem:
I think a clue was missed at 7mins with the compression test. While the engine did show compression to be at spec, it took a good 11 compression strokes to max out. In my (admittedly limited) experience this invariably indicates bad timing. Because the compression was ultimately at spec, there is no compression leakage concern, however because it took so long to build it up, it is indicative of “inefficiency” with building compression. This would be due to either late closing of the intake thus a shorter compression stroke, or early closing thus less A/F to compress. Either way it will take far more strokes to max out the compression to spec. A healthy and timed engine will produce full compression within 6 or 7 strokes- certainly well before the 11 strokes as in this example. Just an observation that caught my eye on the compression test. If you repeated the test after adjusting timing, the pattern of compression build would have been much different.
So an alternative diagnosis might be a compression test. If full compression is not reached within 6-7 strokes, this could indicate a timing issue like the one described in the video.
Flushing the fluid on a clutch after attempting to fix a squeaky slave cylinder, I ran into exactly the same problem and fixed it. Here’s how.
First the symptoms. I pushed the clutch pedal down. It stayed down. i pulled the pedal up, then pushed down. The pedal stayed down. Repeated 20 times and still no clutch pressure. After a dozen or so iterations, there was still nothing draining from the bleeder. No sign whatsovevr of any built up pressure being released.
I then opened the bleeder valve with the pedal down, but no fluid flowed. I even removed the bleeder valve entirely and it was bone dry. No sign of fluid flowing at all from the bleeder.
All of this was done with a piece of tubing attached to the he bleeder outlet as described in multiple sources including the service manual. The tubing drained into a bottle with 1cm new fluid. The bleeder valve was only opened with the clutch pedal fully pressed down, and the resevoir open.
The solution involved pulling the pedal back up and cracking the fluid _inlet_. Almost immediately, bubbles began forming. After removing the fluid inlet line (flowing from the master cylinder) entirely, fluid was draining from the reservoir copiously.
Then I reattached the inlet line. I pumped the clutch pedal again, and suddenly pressure.
I believe that a large volume of air had entered the line, preventing the movement of fluid into the bleeder. Opening the inlet and allowing fluid to drain purged enough air so that the line could begin operating properly again.
I searched all over to find a fix and found nothing. It’s an amazingly widespread problem that plagues a variety of makes and models. As afar as I know, the solution I described has never been published. In fact, this was one of the most difficult parts – in only a few cases did anybody follow up with what resolved the problem. And in those cases, major work, towing. and parts replacement was involved.
This solution – disconnecting the fluid inlet and letting it drain for a bit, then reconnecting – got me on my way without any more hassle. I was able to fully bleed the old fluid with no air bubbles emerging, and the standard pump-the-pedal-and-bleed method worked just fine.
Eric, if you’re reading, this topic could really use a video.