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I should also point out that I cut the old oil filter open and it didn’t have any kind of shavings or particles! So probably worn bearings are out…
Here’s a simple diagnosis for rod knock that would put you on more solid ground with that conclusion:
I had my timing belt changed after this problem started, but I will look into the mechaniCal timing as one of the possible problems.
In that case, I’d take the car back to the mechanic that did the timing belt and ask whether mechanical timing was spot-on. I’d do this before any more parts changes.
If the timing belt is advanced by one or more teeth, it could explain the need to retard ignition timing.
as the voltages on my upstream and downstream o2 sensors usually reading 0.7
Did you use a scan tool to get that reading? If so, what do your other values (e.g., long/short term fuel trim) look like at idle and under load?
I’m no expert on that model, but it looks vaguely like a harmonic balancer:
http://monsterautoparts.com/FORD/F150/ford_pickup_truck_f-150_f-250_harmonic_balancer.htm
Have you checked mechanical timing lately (line up timing marks on crankshaft and camshaft to cylinder 1 TDC while engine off)? Also, when was the timing belt last done and who did the work?
Besides the check engine code, what other evidence did you find that the catalytic converter needed to be replaced?
Another thing I noticed is the huge amount of water coming out of the exhaust. I understand that there is condensation water, but this is blown out after a few minutes, but with this car it keeps coming. 10min, 15min, 20min idling and still coming. Lots, not just dripping. Black water
You may have already looked for it, but do you see any signs of coolant mixing with oil? For example, any creaminess to the oil underneath the oil cap or on the dipstick? Any oil in the coolant?
Either way, given you’re seeing lots of water in the exhaust, a leak down test seems in order.
When you first turn the key to the on position i dont hear the fuel pump priming, and when i turn it to the start position, the starter relay isnt kicking on, and the starter isnt turning over.
The easiest thing to rule out at this point is an electrical issue.
What is your battery voltage? How about when attempting to crank? Any signs of corrosion at either terminal?
I spent the past 2 hours getting the starter off from under the manifold.
That seems like a lot of work, especially because the starter tested fine. If you’re still interested in the DIY diagnostic route, you might look for voltage drop to the starter:
A voltage drop test would eliminate faulty wiring, something that changing the starter can’t do.
Given the problem with the spark plugs and the fact that the holes have all been bored out and inserts added, compression seems like a good place to start diagnosis.
You ran a compression test:
Checked compression. Every cylinder had 8bar equally (about 116PSI). Don’t know what it’s suppose to have, but 8 bar sound pretty good for a 4 Cylinder natural aspirated. Compression was build up and released with every turn.
Did you run this test with a cold or warm engine?
Did you do this test wet or dry?
AFAIK, compression should be held with every turn. If pressure is being lost at the end of the compression test, that could lead in the direction of a bad gauge. Also, if more than ~8 cranks are needed to reach full compression, it could suggest a timing issue.
I tried looking for factory specs, but couldn’t find any. However, various sources claim that the numbers like the ones you’re seeing are within normal range. For example:
It may be worth looking into a leak down test as well to make sure cylinders can hold pressure.
Computer. It has a blue and a black quick connect. Took both apart. The pins of the black one were in a really bad shape. Tried to clean them, put it back together and still misfiring. … Noticed, while motor is running, when I pushed on the black one with my hand and moved it right and left that the motor ran. I thought, Yessssssssss.
I’m not sure I understand this last statement. Do you mean the engine didn’t misfire at 4000 rpm – or something else?
Coincidentally enough, the timing belt was renewed just a few miles before this problem started … could they have installed the timing belt off the mark?
It has been known to happen.
There are many ways to mess up a timing belt change (e.g., wrong belt, improperly tensioned belt, broken or improperly reconnected crankshaft sensor, and misaligned belt to name a few). If you’re looking for easy things to rule out, ask the mechanic who changed the timing belt.
Given that the car was throwing no codes before the timing belt change, but now throws codes that are consistent with things that could happen after a timing belt change gone wrong, the mechanic should have an open mind to re-visiting the job.
The trouble codes are:
- Code 4: Crank angle sensor
- Code 8: TDC position (top dead center) timing
According to:
http://www.civic4g.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=3&jfile=viewtopic.php&t=9488
Given the mileage you’re reporting (200K miles), an obvious question would be when did you last do the timing belt?
So it appears you have enough battery power, but it’s not being used by the starter. You’ve tested the starter, and it works. Two possibilities come to mind:
1. power issue between battery power and starter
2. no signal to starter.This video talks about where to go when this looks like the direction (starts at 9:40, but the whole video is worth watching):
I have a multimeter but I don’t know where to begin. I’ve checked the battery and it’s reading ok.
You might try testing the battery voltage while cranking:
You said you recently replaced the battery, but if something is going on that prevents it from getting fully charged, that would explain what you’re seeing. A load test will let you exclude this possibility.
The first response on this thread asked:
You probably have some sort of air leak on the coolant overflow hose with a hole in it or it is not sealed well at the tank or at the new radiator. The cap may also not be working properly or sealing properly to hold vacuum in system to draw back in fluid.
You reported that you changed the tubing, but I didn’t see anything about you testing the resulting setup. It seems that some kind of defect in the reservoir and/or connections could explain what you’re reporting.
On Civics, it’s easy to remove the overflow reservoir as a unit. It seems like you should be able to run some simple tests to make sure it functions properly, especially its ability to pull fluid under vacuum. You might be able to rig up a simple test system with a plastic syringe and tap water.
Also, after two cranks, I can smell gas so it seems the pump is working but something isn’t igniting the fuel/air.
Pump can be fine, but fuel pressure could still be an issue. For example, a leak would explain the smell and could cause low fuel pressure. No idea whether this is the case, but a fuel pressure test can rule it out.