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That vintage of Civic was subject to a recall in the early 2000s. The symptom is that the car shuts off while driving with no warning. It can often be re-started without an issue.
The problem was a faulty ignition switch:
http://news.honda.com/newsandviews/article.aspx?id=2002052353859
That may or may not be your problem – I’m not sure. Testing the switch in isolation would be a good way to test the idea. You may be eligible for a free replacement from a dealer, but I’m not sure.
There isn’t much to go on in the way of diagnostic information, so there isn’t a lot we can rule out.
You might start with fuel. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge. What does it read when the key is in the “ON” position. What does it read when you crank? How do these numbers compare with the spec for your car?
The presence of fuel at the injectors by visual inspection doesn’t rule out low fuel pressure as the issue. A fuel pressure test will.
From there I’d move to spark. You mentioned seeing spark. Did you test for spark at the plug connector itself? Seeing spark there rules out the ignition system (but not necessarily timing, which could be the next thing to look at).
Finally, did you look for any check engine codes? Just because there’s no check engine light doesn’t mean there are no codes.
Have you verified the blower motor is receiving both power and signal? Just replacing the motor without fixing underlying electrical issues would not solve the problem.
Have you tested your thermostat?
Does the engine crank when you engage the starter? Your description implies it does (compression test performed), but it’s never good to assume these things.
Has the engine temperature gauge changed in the way it behaves recently? When was the last time the thermostat was changed and/or tested?
Thanks for the help, anymore would be appreciated.
Watch the video – it is well worth the time/effort and will show you how to diagnose the problem for yourself.
Was there a repair that triggered the symptoms? If not, when did you first notice them?
If there really is no camshaft position sensor and the spark plugs are somehow used as sensors, you might consider mechanical and ignition timing as next directions.
It’s not leaking into the motor. Oil levels are fine.
Is there any sign of coolant in the oil? Check under the oil cap and on the dipstick for any sign of non-oil.
If there are none, you can also perform a “sizzle test.” Place a drop of engine oil onto a boiling hot surface. Sizzle is consistent with coolant in the oil. You can test pure motor oil from a container to convince yourself. Run this test if you’ve recently changed the oil.
There’s an entire battery of tests you can run to hunt down where the leak is coming from, but coolant leaking into the oil is the easiest to check. More here (paid w/ 2-week trial):
December 7, 2016 at 11:35 pm in reply to: Drive shaft slip yoke racketball repair (GMtroubl) #873185I own a 2005 Cadillac escalade that has a CLUNK noise in the rear driveshaft when ill start from a full stop to D or R
How do you know that the yoke is the problem? Did you use anything else to diagnose besides the noise? If so, did you listen for the noise from outside the car and attempt to pinpoint it that way?
If your diagnosis was based on listening to the noise from inside the car, I’d do a little more research to find a definitive test – before making any repairs.
Where is the noise coming from exactly?
If you can’t pinpoint it, get a helper to listen. Leave the hood up as you back out if that helps. It might be a good idea to make sure the driveway is clear and pretend that the other car is there.
I’m not sure what you mea by audio
An audio clip. Can you make and post an audio clip with your iPhone (w/ or w/o video) to some place everyone can listen to it? Then post a link to it.
A few months ago, I started hearing that peculiar whining noise from the rear end of my 2009 Odyssey that indicated a wheel bearing was failing.
Can you describe the noise? Do you have audio? How does the noise change when speed changes? Where does it seem to be coming from specifically?
Anything within plus/minus 5% on long term and short term trim is generally considered normal.
However, you’ll need to redo the test while revving the engine to definitively rule out a rich or lean condition. To understand why, check out:
Also, it would be helpful to confirm that the mechanical timing is indeed set properly.
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