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Used to hear the relay click and check engine light shut off after a few seconds, but now I hear no click and light stays on.
What check engine code is your scan tool reporting?
Fuel trim is usually measured against another value – often engine RPM. Rev the engine to 2000 rpm or so. How do your readings change? There’s more here:
Ignition switch is a very common problem with Honda of that vintage. Here’s how to diagnose a bad ignition switch:
Removed valve cover. Found a nice puddle of fresh coolant in between 2 and 3.
Odd that the leak down test didn’t catch this. Any idea why not?
Have you done a leak down test? If so and negative result, my next step would be to check all intakes for signs of leaks. There’s an example of this kind of diagnosis here (paid channel, but worth it):
can that crack causes a crank no start situation?
Did you try to start the car while pressing the accelerator? If that doesn’t allow for a start, that could suggest the problem lies elsewhere.
You’re going to need a good scanner to diagnose this. If you suspect the rental unit, you might try renting a different model from a different store, or buying one.
Either way, the downstream sensor should read a steady ~0.45 volts, and neither graph in your image is showing that.
Also, you might want to look into whether your car actually has air-fuel mixture sensors. Those work differently, AFAIK.
Do you have a scan tool that will give you live data? If so, you might want to look a fuel trims. Perform a long/short term fuel trim measurement at idle and under load (whatever RPM you can get w/o stalling).
There are a variety of wireless $30 OBDII scan tools on the market that will work with an iOS or Android device. It doesn’t take much to get some very valuable diagnostic guidance.
Have you ever cleaned and/or replaced your IAC valve?
There’s a hole through the IAC through which air flows. Over time, this passage way becomes coated with black deposits. This can prevent the valve from working properly. One symptom that can develop is cranking no start.
You can test whether the IAC is the problem by pressing the throttle while cranking. Does the engine start and then die when you release the throttle?
The code is telling you that a rich condition has been detected. If so, this should show up in your fuel trims. What are your short/long term fuel trims:
1. at idle
2. under load (~3500 rpm)[strike]A few questions to make sure I understand where you are currently:
What codes does your car currently have?
Briefly, what problem(s) do you notice with how the engine runs?[/strike]
Ok, I’ve re-read the posts and think I understand better now.
P1298 looks like a Honda-specific code: “Electric Load Detector Circuit High Voltage”
https://www.autocodes.com/p1298_honda.html
I would address that problem first because it sounds like it could trigger other problems by fooling the ECU.
After a very brief Google search, I found this:
It appears the fix was to replace the electric load detector (ELD). There may be a diagnostic procedure somewhere, but I haven’t looked for it.
Was the ELD ever checked and/or replaced?After control-f on this thread, I see the ELD was replaced.
Does your car have any after-market electronics of any kind installed on it?
Also, who replaced the ELD? Are you sure a new unit was used? I ask because of the last post in this thread:
I had the same problem: P1298 ELD problem. I have an 01 Civic LX and had a 2003 LX parts car. I replaced the ELD in my car from the parts car and to no avail! Still the P1298 code check engine light. I called Honda Parts and was told it was probably a defective ELD. He said the defective part covered years 2001-03, and that is probably why the 03 one didn’t work. He said they had a new updated part. I bought the new ELD for around $30 and installed it in the under-the-hood fuse box. And “YES”, the new part worked. No check-engine-light the past few weeks. So, if your getting a p1298 code, please don’t put yourself through the time-consuming trouble of checking all the electric circuits. Just get a new ELD from honda and your problem will be solved.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/p1298-error-no-solutions-found-2538384/
The Short term fuel trim looks ok, bounces back and fourth without really going higher than 7+ or – but the long term is constantly at or above 10% usually maxing out around 17%.
Bonnieman makes a good suggestion, and I’d like to see the results as well. It’s important to record fuel trim data against some parameter. In the early stages of diagnosis the most useful secondary parameter is engine rpm.
A lean condition that subsides at high rpm is consistent with a vacuum leak. Given that we have no fuel trim data at high rpm, we can’t rule out a vacuum leak.
Other factors can cause lean conditions – for example a fuel delivery issue. The lean condition should get worse under high rpm in this case.
Beware: your long term fuel trim may be pegged lean. If this happens you can’t make the engine go any more lean and may be misled.
Whatever you do, resist the urge to start cleaning or replacing parts until you can confirm one of them is bad.
You have fuel pressure and can start the car by dumping fuel into the air intake (starter fluid). At this point it looks like a fuel delivery problem after the gauge. I would try to rule out the injectors. Here’s one way: