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thank you, i think i’m just going to replace all hoses and do a nice big flush of the system and see if int acts up again, if it keeps leaking i will assume its the pump and if things puff up again i suppose i may need to consider a head gasket problem…ugh
Thanks Cloud. Careful with that Buster Sword;) to clarify, i did do a stator winding test per the manual before and it operated as it should, i even tested resistance between each armature winding and they were all within the same range, indicating no damage. the test didn’t involve current though, just resistance…but more less, if the resistance is to spec, your gonna get the voltage from it you need. also to clarify with the regulator, the “cut in” voltage, was about 11.9, that is; the voltage that the generator is putting out when the regulator starts to allow current to be fed into the batt. the “cutout” voltage was like 15.3 which is slightly lower than spec, but i doubt enough to harm anything? also interesting about the regulator, when the cutout activates at higher rpms. the cutout doesn’t actually just stop current flow entirely, on the regulator is appears to go through a resistor then into the batt. with a closed current flow it read about 2.3 ohms and with the cutout engaged it reads about 75 ohms across the gap. just a interesting design is all.
furthermore, im pretty sure ive pinpointed it to be the ignition coils(aftermarket ones for a car that aren’t actually for the bike). when i turn on the accesories the batt voltage drops like .3ish volts before stabilizing, but when i flick those coils on even for a second the voltage drops all the way to 6 or 7 volts, and returns to normal when i turn em off.
i think those big puppies are my parasitic draw culprit. ill be putting some nice aftermarket ones on here soon, and ill let you know if it works out.
if that doesn’t work, i may try checking that wiring harness connector you mentioned…their is one with 4 leads that handles all charging components from the regulator to generator…so it seems possible one connection is subpar.
Allright well thanks. I suppose I’ll just have to bite the bullet and replace the studs before anything bad happens.
allright so I wasn’t referring to this particular instance as a “fix”…its more of a “educated compromise”. do you have any input on the situation at hand though? i’m just curious about if lacking a bolt is a ticket to inevitable failure or if it’l do fine without it.
Hey transman, thanks for the help! just so you know i changed the filter and it appeared to help a bit but the problem still persists like it did last year(its getting really cold here!) As expected it is definitely drainback since the fluid level is way higher after the car has been sitting than when it just got done running( its actually high enough when cold to cause some foaming on startup until its properly primed).
that one way cooler valve idea you have is genius though and im thinking thats what im going to do. If you wouldn’t mind proving some input if you know, should I put the valve on location 1 or 2? and should the valve let fluid flow in or out from that port? (as shown in that pic) thanks a million friend!
Cool, im not even worried then. Ill just clean the o2 sensor here and there. As for the cat, this things gonna be vintage in 4 years so if i can just pass e check twice im golden^^ thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it. And happy new year!!
yeah unfortunately the engine that i have in it is a replacement engine from a junkyard, so although the car is a 94 i dont know from what year the engine is…so it could be seals, or the valve guides could be the older ones without the retainers prone to wear:/ looking at the steps required for the valve job though i’m debating if its worth it, people say the problem can return in 20k or so miles from premature wear to the seals from jiggling guides. honestly now that i know my rings are good i’m not to concerned about the burning. i dont mind putting a quart in every so often, but i guess my only concern is if leaving it burn will cause any other problems to the engine? i know the valve seals will just keep getting worse as time goes on, but do i have to worry about damaging anything else leaving it go?
yep it has a 3.0 mitsu. I guess thats likely what it is then. thanks for the help. time to get those suckers off :dry:
good to know. I was always under the impression that plugs were really good determinants for certain engine problems, guess not. Also i’ve checked the PCV valve 2 or 3 times over the last year. I unscrewed it and gave it a jiggle, and could clearly hear the bearing or whatever freed inside it, so i think its good. i suppose that its rings or valve seals regardless then. would you guys recommend I do a compression test and leakdown test before diving into the valve job or is it pretty obvious? thanks
Update: I dropped the pan today, cleaned up the mating surfaces and installed my new filter and gasket. when it was all put back together i added to my surprise only about 2.5 qts of ATF4 to get the dipstick to read just under the warm mark. Tried to drive to work…and to my discourse my car was completely immobile. drive wouldn’t engage and reverse would very very seldom engage. had to call in about being late to work, looked under the hood and found that the new fluid level was substantially lower than before(i guess one of the mechanisms sucked up some from the pan when i ran the engine. Anyway…i had to add about 1.25 more qts of ATF to make it right, so thats about 3.75 qts total that i needed. With driving…sofar so good. the gears appear to be engaging quicker and i tried driving it right after startup after sitting 6 hours and it had no problems…then again the weather has warmed up in ohio the last few days and its around 50 F right now. I guess ill wait till a night that it gets below freezing and give it the true test of strength!
just for the hell of it i took some pics to see if anything caught your guys eyes, first and second is the shavings magnet before i cleaned the pan. it looks pretty covered but i would imagine this is ok considering it was never touched since 1994? 3rd is the underside of the trans…note the stream of fluid coming from the circled opening? even about 30 minutes after draining that opening was still supplying a steady drip, drip, drip.
Also if anyone feels so inclined, on the same car i’ve been trying to diagnose my oil burning problem i’ve had for some time now and now im even more stumped. it spews out blue smoke in the exhaust on warmups, after driving out of long lights…drive thru’s ect. i’m 99 percent sure its oil, as their are no signs of antifreeze and oil mixing anywhere. Oddly enough as well…I pulled all 6 plugs out today and evaluated each, and i was CERTAIN that i would come across one that was fouled with oil from valve seals or a bad ring or whatever, but all the plugs looked perfect? they all had the typical thin layer of white buildup, but other than that they were perfect. So I know im burning oil…but none of my plugs are fouled…this has got me quite stumped.
Thank you so much for the expert response, its sure to help:). Tomorrow I’ll check the dipstick using that method, and soon(hopefully tomorrow) ill drop the pan and change the filter and fluid. I’ll be sure to update after that progress. Thanks again transman^^
The charging light did not show up on the instrument panel, although the check engine light did(it appears to come on when the voltage reading on the dash drops below 10). As for the belt its nice and tight, no slipping. So its pretty obvious its the alternator at this point then? Its only about a year old so im kinda ashamed it bit the dust so quick:(
Thanks for the quick reply by the way!
