Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
The petcock got replaced not too long ago. the video i posted is of the bike now. it wouldn’t run with the choke like that before. in the video its doing what i consider to be “proper” where it’s all warmed up and you can see me start it w/o choke, choke it and it runs at a little higher rpm, take off choke and it slides back down to normal idle… i consider that a properly working choke. and the choke circuit is through both carbs, there’s actually a hose line you need to run between the carbs specifically for that circuit. and yes everything is standard. main jet is a 72, needles are stock, set to 3 tabs down, pilots are stock as well. floats were at about 23.5 mm right / 22.25 mm left before i cleaned the carbs…they should be at 19.9 mm, i managed something around 19.5 for the right and 20 ish for the left, much closer to spec.
Yeah sorry about that. Here’s some pictures and a link to a video of it i took today https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHWMC8lFDzA.
I whipped her around town today, still with that pod in and still with everything on the carbs on standard settings and she rocked. got her up to 60 and it felt like i could easily get to 75. No hesitation, no surging.
Howdy guys, i figured that this warranted an update to help people in the future with similar problems… today i finally got around to pulling the plugs and checking compression… compared to the 130 i got on the cylinders last year, it was only a few pounds of difference, and that was with the engine decently hot…so rings are good. Now onto the actual problem… i noticed when i pulled the plugs, that they were SUPER oil fouled… like i know 2 strokes just burn oil, but this was clearly getting way too much. now this 2 stroke doesn’t require you to mix oil with fuel, instead its got its own little oil pump that squirts 2 stroke oil directly into the crankcase and comb chamber via banjo bolts…. now a few months ago i adjusted the oil pump outward a decent amount from where it was when i bought the bike… enough to match a notch on the pump lever with a notch on the housing… well clearly those weren’t meant to match up because the engine was getting bukkaked in oil… not really a bad thing i guess from a long term standpoint…
anyway, i adjusted the oil pump nut back down and it seems fine now, WAY more power… WAY more throttle response… I like to make the thing buck a little in 2nd gear, which it could’t do at all previously;)
Howdy guys, i’m following up because I figured that this warranted an update. I did infact re-torque the head bolts from 70 ft/lbs to 80, which appeared to stop the leak entirely until the car got nice and warmed up, then the bubbles began again. after seeing this i decided to get the blue devil pour-n-go (the smaller 30ish dollar bottle). my process was: removed t-stat and a bit of antifreeze. let the car get completely cool, added the blue devil slowly. let the car idle for the whole 50 minute duration with the heater on high. about 20 minutes into the process the bubbles in the resivoir subsided. its been about 3 weeks and i’ve put a good 300 miles on the car now, and all seems good! i babied the hell out of it for the first 100 miles but i can give it some juice now and it hasn’t given me any noticeable signs. since its summer here i figured id just leave the t-stat out for a few weeks and leave the blue devil in (the can says you can actually just leave this stuff in your coolant lines forever with the t-stat and all…which i think is kinda bogus). regardless, today i’m gonna put the t-stat back in and just keep an eye on the temp from now on incase it ends up gumming up from the blue devil…logic tells me that if the blue devil isnt causing any harm, i may as well leave it in to act as a recurrent seal aid should the gasket blow again…
with that being said, i know this stuff gets alot of mixed results…for my car though it appears to have worked, atleast temporarily(no bubbles, no coolant usage, perfectly clear exhaust). I think it worked for me due to a few factors…1: i cleaned the whole top end and gave it new head gaskets… 2: i also retorqued the bolts, farther sandwiching the gasket material
so i think in my case where the blue devil simply had to fill a tiny tiny inperfection in the head that the new gasket wasn’t quite able to sandwich, it worked quite well…
now if i had decided to use the stuff before i did the engine teardown, i doubt it would have worked, because the original head gaskets had actually blown a fire ring in the no1 cylinder, resulting in DAMAGE to the gasket, not a slight imperfection.
I guess what i’m saying is…i think this stuff will do a really good job as a sealant…but not as a replacement…just like how you wouldn’t use RTV silicone in place of a valve cap…but you would use it to seal that valve cap in place… ya dig?
anyway, thats my experience, wish me luck with the old gal! she’s gotta get me through as much college as possible!
Oh also, as far as the compression test goes, i have a tester, but it seems moot at this point, because i’m not taking this damn engine apart again, even if i know where the leak is, the most i’m honestly going to do is torque the bolts more or maybe put some gasket repair in it…beyond that, i’m just gonna sell it to someone who’s still full of motivation lol.
Also yeah i bought new head bolts
Kenzo, that would be wishful thinking, but i think any gases that would have been in there would have been removed in the cleaning processes.
Rob781, no i didn’t have the machine shop check it because i am a cheap bastardXD i did check for warp with a feeler multiple times and the heads passed through and through, i checked thoroughly for cracks too and cleaned all the valves as well. My head gasket didn’t blow due to an overheat situation though, i know that much, i think the ring blew out due to expansion and contraction shear exhibited on the gasket over the many years.
I torqued the bolts slowly and gradually, hand tightened all, torqued to prolly 40, a little more, then 70, then snugged them all at 70. oddly enough i just found the freaking instructions for my gaskets that were hidden in the bottom of the box… THEY say to torque to 80 ft/lbs as of 1995… while my manual says 70… perhaps i should re-torque?
I also just took her for a 2 mile spin to get food, its hard to say at this point, but it seems like the leak may be slowing? i know its wishful thinking, but perhaps through a couple heating and cooling cycles the gasket may seat itself properly in place? maybe that combined with another torque to 80 ft/lbs will fix the problem? at this point…its not gonna hurt any lol
Bear in mind, other than this, the thing runs perfect! it started right up after everything was put back, it seems to have a lot more power too, the slight oil burn it had previously is gone as well, and even after being under pressure i couldn’t find one leak of any kind coming from anywhere on the engine…its just this stinking combustion leak ugh
awesome. everything checks out so i’m gonna use it for a couple days and see if anything goes south. also i had no idea you could tell so much about your car from just the oil though thats so cool! i’m totally getting a kit soon, for 28 bucks hell yeah.
no i didnt yet. i’m trying to diagnose if its actually blown before i…you know…tear apart half my engine lol
ok update guys, thanks for the input by the way! sorry defcon, but i managed to check the compression on all the cylinders today. i did this cold, because i did it cold when i did the control compression test 7 months ago.
results: my cylinders are numbered passenger to driver side 1 3 5 in the rear and 2 4 6 in the front…
7 months ago pressures: 1. 159 2. 158 3. 158 4. 145 5. 161 6. 150
Just now tested pressure: 1. 151 2. 160 3. 151 4. 160 5. 152 6. 160
so as you can see, nothing is astonishingly low… some of the cylinders have decreased in pressure by 10ish lbs, but then on the flipside some of them have increased by like 10 psi from last time.
on a side note, the 5th cylinder i was talking about in the original post last night read 142 then…but i did it today with the engine de-warmed and it read 152, i guess that descrapancy seems normal considering temperature expansion and such?
should i do a compression test with the engine hot to get reliable results or is this sufficient? logically things expand when heated so if there were any leak it would be most apparent with the engine cold i assume?
Evil, back to you, obviously i dont want to take the head off unless its completely necessary (i may not be as much of a masochist as you) lol but i can definitively say that all of the spark plugs looked exactly the same, the whole end of it, (atleast the part exposed to the cylinders) looked pristene and healthy…that bit of oil or whatever on the threads i’m thinking may have come from outside the engine, like a little oil soak from some other little leak?
also the compression hose i have has a nice little air compression male fitting on the end, so i think what ill do is hook it up to my little air compressor for each cylinder and check for bubbles as per TDC. so if that checks out and you guys agree the pressures i got and spark plug conditions are pointing away from a head gasket problem, i think what ill do is just drive the car around… i figure if it is a tiny head gasket leak…in no time it will get worse and become very apparent. phew i hope it all works out
ok update, today i pulled all my spark plugs out and analyzed… all looked pretty normal with the standard tinge of white on the leads. they were all dry on the ends, but my number 5 plug (the cylinder on the rear drivers side) has slightly wet threads, but i cant tell if its oil or coolant… is it possible for fouling to reach the threads? and perhaps thats the only place the antifreeze has condensed sofar since ive ran the engine so little since being damaged?
well…i replaced all the hoses today, put fresh coolant in…started the car…and its spewing out white smoke now. a fucking head gaskets blown…ive done this before and i can do it again…it wont be fun…but ill do it. now its worth mentioning that last time i changed my head gaskets i fixed them just fine, but the engine got a knock shortly after from some antifreeze that was in the crankcase… how should i remedy keeping the same thing from happening in this engine? just drain the oil first thing before i start breakdown?
ok so these responses have made me realize that the hoses leaking was likely a result of them being puffed up that few weeks back and that was a result of overpressurization, and that was a result of…something…something that i may have fixed post puff (the thermostat or the radiator overpressure cap) or something that remains unsung, so here are some details about that experience…
(bear in mind this happened a few weeks prior to my new hose leaks) drove home doing about 70 on the express way for 30 minutes, 2 minutes before reaching home smelled antifreeze, opened hood at home to reveal a pinhole on my heater core hose (the upper one i dont know if its return or intake) right after its mating with the nipple on the block. it was squirting out AF at quite a high pressure. the main upper radiator hose(leading into the t-stat) was puffed as well.
i was certain it was the t-stat, so the next day i pulled some slack from the heater core hose to cut off the hole and re attached it, then i replaced the thermostat which to my surprise seemed physically just fine, no noticeable damage, it compressed and everything. what was even weirder is earlier i was certain i felt a little spring in the upper hose that must have shot out of the bad thermostat…i suppose what i was feeling may have been the bands in the hose giving some resistance… so anyway i replaced the thermostat since i was allready in there.
a couple days i realized that the overflow cap must have been faulty as well, as the part of the system that was pressurized is directly linked to the cap, so if it was doing its job, what happened would have been impossible…so it got replaced too.
now the biggest and weirdest thing was that when this happened… the engine was cool…cool?! i had just drove home doing 70 for 30 minutes and the block/plenum was cool…well cool as far as engines are concerned…i know my car and i know what the temp should feel like after a big drive, but the plenum was cold enough to press my hand on for a few seconds… all the while the coolant was hot and puffed and crazy… i would have suspected the thermostat to have been stuck open then, but as i said before it was fine…
also note: ive had a head gasket blow on the last engine that was in this car, so i pretty much know what to look for… so… oil isnt milky, antifreeze has a little brown in it but ill chalk it up to deposits… exhaust is puffing out a tiny bit of visible white but appears normal…my hand did feel a bit wet after holding if up the the pipe for a few seconds but thats pretty normal as well right? also the coolant isnt gurgling like you would expect with a HG leak…i actually took the cap off while the engine was cold and the coolant just sat stagnant.
i’m gonna replace all the hoses and clamps and see if it happens again, if it does i have a compression tester, so doing all the cylinders will be my next go to.
p.s. i’m just thinking aloud so i’m sure not all information in this is valuable.