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Well it runs but still has the cylinder 1 and 4 misfire. Yea I’m not sure where the best place is to get a reman ecu.
Well it runs but still has the cylinder 1 and 4 misfire. Yea I’m not sure where the best place is to get a reman ecu.
Ok, so it has been cold and I have been busy at work.
I had the car running after I had cleaned the computer board. There was a lot of corrosion. It ran the same and after ten minutes it died and would not stay running enough to move the car which was really all I was trying to do that day.
A few days ago I had the car running and it now has spark on cylinder 1 and 4. Yes it is running on six cylinders. After running for awhile it seems to have an intermittent misfire but still had spark on all six. CEL came on, off for five minutes, then on steady. I am going to check it today. I also just received a replacement capacitor kit from ebay for the computer. I will most likely install that today too.
Ok, so it has been cold and I have been busy at work.
I had the car running after I had cleaned the computer board. There was a lot of corrosion. It ran the same and after ten minutes it died and would not stay running enough to move the car which was really all I was trying to do that day.
A few days ago I had the car running and it now has spark on cylinder 1 and 4. Yes it is running on six cylinders. After running for awhile it seems to have an intermittent misfire but still had spark on all six. CEL came on, off for five minutes, then on steady. I am going to check it today. I also just received a replacement capacitor kit from ebay for the computer. I will most likely install that today too.
[quote=”barneyb” post=124166]Back then Mitsubishi was using flawed ECU’s. I suggest pulling the ECU and pulling the cover. Look for corrosion around any capacitor on the board.[/quote]
Now that you mention that I have seen a lot of that seem to have ecu issues on other forums too. Also the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree; abs, srs, check engine, sport and touring suspension settings blinking on and off.
I will search and find out how to remove the ecu and then look inside it.
Thanks
[quote=”barneyb” post=124166]Back then Mitsubishi was using flawed ECU’s. I suggest pulling the ECU and pulling the cover. Look for corrosion around any capacitor on the board.[/quote]
Now that you mention that I have seen a lot of that seem to have ecu issues on other forums too. Also the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree; abs, srs, check engine, sport and touring suspension settings blinking on and off.
I will search and find out how to remove the ecu and then look inside it.
Thanks
Yea the car is still running good today. A fuel issue would not explain no injector pulse or spark. I did not use a fuel pressure gauge but I did purge it with a screw driver and plenty shot out. I did that first because it was low on fuel and up on ramps, I was thinking it could have run out of fuel, but it was just the ignition control module.
Yea the car is still running good today. A fuel issue would not explain no injector pulse or spark. I did not use a fuel pressure gauge but I did purge it with a screw driver and plenty shot out. I did that first because it was low on fuel and up on ramps, I was thinking it could have run out of fuel, but it was just the ignition control module.
Well the car had a slightly different symptom which was after shutting the engine off it would not start. Before it would die on it own.
I tried this website which is great but not for the 1990 car I was fixing http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ I’m sure this will help 1991 and up car owners with the three separate coils.
So the fix was the ignition control module under the coils. I got it and the coil for $18 at the local junk yard. I ran it for over and hour shutting it off several times and starting it right back up. No issues so far.
Well the car had a slightly different symptom which was after shutting the engine off it would not start. Before it would die on it own.
I tried this website which is great but not for the 1990 car I was fixing http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ I’m sure this will help 1991 and up car owners with the three separate coils.
So the fix was the ignition control module under the coils. I got it and the coil for $18 at the local junk yard. I ran it for over and hour shutting it off several times and starting it right back up. No issues so far.
Are you looking to buy something to use for a specific purpose? If so what will it be? What does it need to do? Or are you buying something just to work on for the channel? Are you going to be driving it everyday?
Are you looking to buy something to use for a specific purpose? If so what will it be? What does it need to do? Or are you buying something just to work on for the channel? Are you going to be driving it everyday?
While searching for a new vehicle I’ve found that diesels aren’t that easy to find where I live. The ones that I do find are trucks and they are bigger that what I would need for the most part, 3/4 ton and above. Not to mention most diesel trucks that are worth a crap are beyond my budget for the next vehicle. I have only found 2 diesel cars that I would consider and both of those were pretty old and worn out. Having a diesel vehicle would be great, I’m just having a hard time tracking one down that’s in my price range that’s worth buying.
Eric I just watched your video on ETCG(as I always do)and I was practically forced to comment. I am always on the search for the best and most practical vehicle.
I have heard you previously mention an interest in diesel vehicles which is something I share interest in as well. The tdi vw cars are great. For the money you have to work with the best vw you could get would be an older body style Passat. Make sure it is a manual transmission. The newer style Jetta, gulf, and beatle will be much to expensive.
The Mercedes are great cars. 240d is too slow. older 300td is better but the one with real power seems to be the 300sdl or 350sdl. I had a 350sdl for a very short time. The 350sdl has the bigger 3.5 liter engine. Some people will argue that the 3.5 engine is trouble but it seems to me that there were a few issues early on but they were mostly solved. When looking for one make sure it does not use oil or smoke more than normal. The 3.0 engine is the most loved Mercedes diesel engine. There are some nice looking 300 diesels with the more modern body style from 1987 to the early 1990’s. Also early to mid 1990’s 350 s class with diesel option. One that I seriously considered was the 1998-1999 e300 Diesel. This is a modern looking car with and inline 6 and the last manual injection car. These are $4000-7500 depending on condition and mileage.
Remember the Mercedes are generally 25mpg-35 and the vw are 40mpg-55.
As far as a diesel truck the usa is not the best as far as options on 1500 size diesels. There is a new ram 1500 diesel but with the price tag at over $50,000 they have effectively out priced themselves.
In Europe, Australia, and EVEN CANADA they get diesel Toyotas which are hands down the best small diesel trucks. (I am a Toyota guy). I just sold my 1995 Toyota pickup(last year of the 22re four cylinder)4×4 5 speed. That is a truck I would highly recommend but be aware that the four cylinder is not much for power but gets good fuel mileage. On the highway I got 23.5mpg around town 17 and 18 but I could have gotten better if I kept my foot out of it. These trucks are hard to break. Rust is their one weakness so check the frame inside and out(they are fully boxed). In front of the leaf spring hangers is a common spot. I have seen the newer toacomas on craigslist for $3000-4000 for single cab 4×4 stick in my area(central nj). You have to be patient though as these trucks are very popular.
I just replaced my Toyota with a 2001 dodge ram 2500 quadcab diesel 4×4 automatic. I got the truck for $3,200 which is a screaming deal but it needs some tlc. Only 143,000 miles. The fuel mileage is good but not in stop and go traffic. If you keep it moving at a steady pace even at lower speeds you can easily get 18-21 mpg with a light foot on the throttle. With all the power this truck makes there is not much of a need to step on it hard unless for fun. These trucks are very difficult to find for cheap. A 1994-1998 with the 12 valve manual injection engine will be cheaper and very easily can be made to run on vegi oil, waste engine, or trans oil. I am not a vegi oil fan. You have better access to waste engine oil anyway. The is mixed with straight diesel fuel and not run straight like vegi but the problems avoided by not using vegi are worth it.
If you are up for a project then read on. There is a company that offers a vw diesel engine conversion for Suzuki trucks and Toyota pick ups. I would buy a Toyota pick up and convert it to a vw diesel. Since it will be low on power I would upgrade the injectors, lift pump, and the turbo. What you will have in the end will be a small truck that gets mid 20s as far a mpg and 30 on the highway. If should last forever as long as you rust proof it with some POR 15 or similar. Eastwood sells a rubberizer and rust proofer all-in-one in a spray can. Conversion from acme adaports http://www.acmeadapters.com/store_engine.php
Old cars are fun. Maybe a muscle car but are you going to drive it everyday? I have seen friends get fox body mustangs to older muscle and it just does not work out unless it is a weekend car. Don’t get me wrong they are a ton of fun and what sounds better than a rumbling v8? Nothing. Fuel mileage sucks and you will constantly be repairing it. With the other vehicles mentioned you have to make some repairs as with any vehicles but hopefully they will leave you with more time to make improvements.
Keep us posted on your thoughts Eric.
Chris