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Check out Eric’s you tube video when he did his brother’s Honda’s master cylinder swap, it has a lot of good info for you!
Yeah, premium is just under $9 a gallon too in the UK, which is 50cents dearer compared to regular (a gallon).
I’ve always run my MR2’s on premium (She’ll V-power) – I can’t say there is much noticeable difference in performance (although the engine feels peppier) but without fail I get 30miles more out of a full fill up.
I’ve had my MR2’s coming up to 10years and use them very regular for commuting so know these cars behaviour very well now.Sometimes premium has other benefits than just performance gains, I suppose…
Chris.
Hi,
What mileage is on the car?
It is possible that the idle control valve is stuck/gummed up.
Try unplugging the wiring to it as the ECU will send default values instead of live readings from it. If the car behaves better, then it is worth removing it and giving it a clean with q-tips and carb cleaner.
Does it have a MAF sensor? It might be worth a clean, too!
Can’t help with your misfire tho!Chris.
Bless you for keeping an MR2 on the road!
I have 2 myself, just great cars from a bygone era.My question, try to avoid the side lift points, I’ve never liked lifting on pinch welds myself, and the damage you’ve reported could EASILY have been done by a careless mech with a trolley jack.
You could try gently, bit by bit, straightening the pinch weld out by clamping some hard material to the front and back sides of the sill, working from undamaged pinch weld, overlapping a damaged area and tightening the clamps to help pull the bend out. Don’t try it with pliers by themselves as you’ll rip everything up and cause more damage!
It maybe that you don’t need to jack at that point ever again, as my MR2’s lift both wheels on the same side from either front or back jacking points – couple that with a trolley jack at the other points in the attached pic for the centre front & back areas and you may get away without using the bad point again….
Let us know how you get on as we jealously thing of Eric’s 2-post Bendpak whilst scrabbling around on the ground in the wind and wet and cursing! 🙂
Chris[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/31/359af22601c21ca09098b574e07ec434.jpg[/IMG]
Hi Karl,
Really like your other “trick”… Great idea!
I was fortunate to have a spare stabiliser link, so I wasn’t that fussed but I did try to get the top one off and that’s where the problems began and the last resort was the angle grinder as Cammed mentioned.
With the new vice grips, I was even able to unscrew the half cut top bolt with finishing cutting it in half 🙂
Space really is tight for the bottom nut, with limited tool access even with the strut removed, in the end, I used a 17mm wrench with a 19mm hooked over the open end for extra leverage to undo it.
We couldn’t figure how we would have been able to get an impact in the limited space, as there is only a few inches between the nut, LCA and power steering pump/belt on the engine… Might be a different story on the front left strut for space tho!I think I’ll be next back in to do bushes soon, they don’t look bad but I suspect there is play after 12yrs and 110k miles.
Thanks again everyone!
Could this also happen if the master cylinder seal was put in the wrong way round, or if it wasn’t connected properly to the rod that comes from the brake pedal?
Hi Karl,
Strut changed successfully today thanks to your tip with the grips!
Unfortunately before I put the grips on the lower stabiliser bar link, I managed to smash the back of my right hand against the strut.
This made it fun trying to get the grips on good and tight!Luckily, I spent a bit more on the vice grips I bought (Irwin 10″ Quick Release) and it had a 5mm Hex hole on the tightening screw that allowed me to lock them as best I could with my damaged hand, before tightening to an evil death grip with the Hex bit in a 1/4″ wrench!
Needless to say it all went smoothly from that point, and I have a home-refurbed air-strut and new stabiliser link fitted and looking good, thanks to your help! 🙂
Chris.
Totally agree about stainless steel bolts, especially for under car plastic trays….!
Well done OP for a nice write up! 🙂You might be able to test the strut mount by jacking one corner’s tyre up a 3 or 4 inches off the ground and sliding a pry bar under the tyre and lifting up, if the strut mount is worn you’ll probably feel it move/give….
Hi,
First off, sorry to hear of all your trials and tribulations!I can’t believe no-one can balance a driveshaft for RWD cars, the reason I say this is AWD/4×4 vehicles surely must use similar setups?
Are we truly at the point that these are now disposable items?The only other thought I had for you was to plan a road trip/holiday and drive the car to another country (like Sweden) to get the work done…!
Fantastic, thanks Karl.
I used a brass wire brush, penetrating fluid & compressed air to clean the threads, as I *hate* breaking bolts!
Strangely (as this is only the second strut I’ve ever removed) the big bolts thru the lower strut into the knuckle were the ones that scared me off this sort of jobs in the past… Now I know a bit better, it’s the little buggers you’ve gotta be weary off! 🙂
Chris.
Thanks for the advice, Karl.
I only have a small vice grips (same size I think as Eric’s brake hose clamp set in the vids). What size would you recommend as I think would be a useful purchase for the tool box!
My air impact gun is crap, was really cheap and at 90psi with 3/8″ air line, can’t shift lug bolts, so will be using trusty breaker bar with an extension going from underneath the engine to the towards the back side of the rotor…
Oh the joys! Let’s hope the weather stays dry!
Chris.