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If you spliced into the stereo wiring harness, I would put this all back to factory spec and purchase a wiring harness adaptor that the factory connector plugs into and has a universal plug that clips into the back of your new stereo.
Additionally, if you haven’t wired in your LEDs, how do you think this may be a contributory cause to this problem?Ta!
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Fascinating, absolutely fascinating!
Eric, you were real lucky that Paul agreed to do the videos and share that absolute wealth of knowledge, he is a great guy and it was kind of him to share his time and experience with us all.
I hope to see him (maybe in a BlownHeads) video again with ETCG soon!
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Personally I think it is good ‘manners’ as a customer to ensure my car is clean inside and out and the trunk emptied before taking it to techs to work on!
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I often get tiny bits of leaves come out of my vents in the mk2 MR2 I have!
It’s really annoying when a shard of leaf gets trapped as that can whistle when the blower is on!Are you planning on driving the car in a ‘slammed’ state? If not, you may want to keep the valve intact as if you will be raising the height to compensate for load, then it would have the same effect as removing it (or the height won’t drop low enough to activate it). If planning to travel ‘slammed’ to the street then you are probably right that the brakes may be overly sensitive – I’d still be inclined to test with it in place to see how you go…
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A local TV repair guy might be able to help you out if you could do without that unit for a few days?
I think I saw a vid that Eric made that said it was best to shift to P when at traffic lights as this keeps the ATF in the box better than in N and doesn’t speed up damage to the rotors (over time) if left in D with foot on the brake…
“I need protection from my protection” – that had me chuckling, thanks Eric!
PS please post if any of you receive a Bendpak 2 post lift under the Christmas tree 🙂Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think Chevyman hit it on the head: Planned Obsolescence!
Eric mentions comparing a car 20 years in the future with a car from this year, personally I’m thinking “yeah, right! Like a car from this year will last 20 more in able to be compared!”Besides we’ll all be in flying cars by then powered by mini fuel cells, right? 😉
That’s a tough one, Eric!
I am in two minds myself but tend to feel that older cars generally seem to be made of sturdier stuff, for example the proliferation of plastic used on new cars in place of metal – intake manifolds and the like…
I’ve even heard that some of the newer BMW’s have plastic, electric water pumps- I mean seriously “WTF!” – not built to last at all.
To all those that think “big deal, change your car sooner like every 7 years or so” BUT what about all the emissions pumped out to produce and recycle newer cars???Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here in the UK, once a vehicle hits 3 yrs old, it must go in every year for a mandatory MoT test, which usually costs $40-60.
Every year it seems to get a little more stringent with new items added to keep up with cars/vehicles as they evolve.
The test can take as long as an hour (depending on vehicle) and covers items in this informative video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=brjMLhGZO8E
(You can skip to 6 minutes to avoid the preamble etc).
If your car passes, it is recorded electronically, which then allows you to tax and use the vehicle on the road for another year, if it fails, you have 7 days to fix what was wrong and can present the car for a free re-test.I hope you find this interesting!
I’d inspect the calliper mount bracket, if not attached correctly or something is padding it out from the hub assembly, that could cause your issues….
Maybe taking it off and wire brushing it and the mount may help?Chris.