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Sorry guys for the late reply.
Jacked it up and had a closer look, at first it did look like a front main seal had gone but upon closer inspection it is leaking from further up. To the right hand side of the crank pulley is considerably ‘wetter’ and is definitely leaking from a bolted cover way up near the valve cover (just underneath it, adjacent to the power steering pump, refer to pictures). I also suspect the the chain case cover could be leaking as well, what do you guys reckon? Any suggestions?
Cheers.
Hi all,
I apologise for not getting back sooner, internet has been a hit and miss here of late. Anyways I managed to extract the key barrel / ignition switch assembly from the column easy enough and took it in to a local locksmith, he found that a couple of the wafers in the barrel were shot so he replaced the whole lot and got them re-keyed for $50 and some change. Reinstalled the assembly back in the car with a pair of new bolts I got sized up at the local hardware store, plugged it all back in and wallah! Works good as new.
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=162174]Maybe try finding a mobile locksmith, they might be more willing to, or have experience with, automotive related locks. You would then have to deal with a service call fee, but it would still be cheaper than replacing everything.
I do have an inquisitive question though. How many keys are on your wife’s key chain? Tumblers aren’t designed to carry any extra weight so even a small excess over time can wear out components from the constant vibrations.[/quote]
Sounds like a plan, I’ll do the ring arounds and keep you guys updated.
We’ve only ever had 3 small house keys on chain, could definitely been have a contributer but it is an 11 year old car and 11 years of constant key in-out, I reckon, would wear the tumblers out just as quickly. Surprised it didn’t go earlier, I’ve already replaced 4 barrels in my Landcruiser.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=162152]Are you 100% sure the problem lies with the ignition switch and not the key itself? In my experience, the fit becomes looser with wear, not tighter.
Does the key work properly in the door locks? Do you have a less-used/less-worn spare key you could try?
If you are committed to swapping out the existing ignition switch and key combo, I would go for a brand-new unit, with new door lock cylinders to match the new key. Not much sense, other than saving a few bucks, in replacing one used unit with another, and ending up with two different worn keys for the ignition and door locks.[/quote]
100% certain that its the barrel, both the master and the spare will unlock the front door locks without drama but both get stuck in the ignition all the same. I apologise if I didn’t explain further.
Now that the assembly is out of the vehicle, I’m going to try as DaFirnz suggested and take it in to a locksmith and see they can repair it. But if worst comes to worst I will have to replace it myself. I am absolutely not buying a new assembly, $900 is outrageous for a key cylinder (which they can’t get in for 3 weeks, this is a daily car too keep in mind) + the 3 hrs worth of labor that the dealer wants to charge + the 100km tow so if you add that all up, that’s a very expensive ignition job. In other words I am quite happy to take my chances with a 2nd hand part.
I did noticed those headless bolts, a Dremmel made quick work of them. I’m going get a pair sized up at my local hardware store.
That’s interesting, I’ll have to take it around now the assembly is out of the car, I did consider that at first however when I did the ring arounds, a lot of locksmiths were um and ah about it. Worth a shot now that its out of the car.
Noted 😉
Seems to be thing with vehicles these days, a chime for this, alarm for that, restriction for this… You cant even start most cars today without your foot on the clutch, safety, safety, safety. I’d say its because they don’t want you leaving an in-gear, running car for various reasons, pick three. :S
Chrisco out.
I’ve heard many stories from many people about these little gimmicks and all of them haven’t been positive. This article might be of some relevance; http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=174&t=105702. Unfortunately there’s no easy – instant solution when it comes to rust, just a whole lot of elbow grease. 😉
Chrisco out.
cam0888 and Evil-i both have very valid points in regards to this topic, heed their advise! You’re looking to tow a considerable load in vehicles that were more than likely never designed to tow at all… Bearing in mind that towing puts an immense strain on the engine, drive train, ect, proof of which sits in my shed as we speak. All I can say is look at your owners manual and FOLLOW it’s advice, if it specifies only 1000lbs, that’s the maximum and no more.
Chrisco out B).
Another common fault with the BA/BFs is the bonnet release latch. Through poor design and crappy materials, the latches are always snapping off the fuse box where they mount onto and if you’re unlucky enough snapping the mount on the fuse box as well. Ford has released ‘fixed’ replacement bonnet cable and latch with redesigned mounting clips so this issue doesn’t repeat itself and the install is easy, it can be done in about 20 mins. I only bring this up as it is a roadworthy issue on top of being an annoyance.
G’day xantia!
Just to add a bit of contrast to the topic, I live in a regional town in Australia, the family and myself now run 3 vehicles (the newbie just arrived last week :woohoo: ) a 4cyl, 6cyl & 8cyl – 2 diesel, one petrol. I’ll start from the top, the 8cyl is a diesel 79 series Landcruiser ute. The registration annually is partway over $1,300 – Compulsory Third Party Insurance
G’day xantia!
Just to add a bit of contrast to the topic, I live in a regional town in Australia, the family and myself now run 3 vehicles (the newbie just arrived last week :woohoo: ) a 4cyl, 6cyl & 8cyl – 2 diesel, one petrol. I’ll start from the top, the 8cyl is a diesel 79 series Landcruiser ute. The registration annually is partway over $1,300 – Compulsory Third Party Insurance is around $200 but is worked into the rego, comprehensive insurance is another $1,400 anually on top of that. Fuel is around $250, its got long range tanks on it but it will be interesting to see how far it goes with the V8. The 6cyl is my daily and soon to be retired Dirty Diesel or 75 series LC ute, Rego annually is $600, comprehensive insurance is $500 fuel is about the same $250 however I only need to fill up once every 3 weeks, this one has long range tanks as well 180L. And last but not least is the 4cyl petrol CRV, which is cheap as chips to run, $300 annually on rego, $200 on compulsory insurance and a touch over $60 a week on fuel. Now I will say that the insurance is above average in cost because I am included on all three policies and me being young and still on my ‘P’ or provisional plates this jacks the premiums up a fair bit also Queensland is the most expensive state in the country to register a vehicle. On the other hand, because we are farmers, the diesel is subsidised by the government.
Chrisco out.