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Thank you everyone for your answers!
Anyone else have any more toughs? I’d really like to know Eric’s opinion xD ( who doesn’t want his opinion anyway xD )
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=170699]Well since you are near 200k KM I would pretty much change everything unless the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel are in immaculate shape.
I see you are in Canada, so I cannot comment on if the trans is a good deal or not.
Also due to you living in Canada, I am guessing A/C isn’t necessary for you guys and lots of cars come without it to save money.
Adding A/C is always a horse of another color for a vehicle that never had it in the first place. You have to change everything in the dash, add an evaporator, condenser, A/C pump, new belts, tensioners, etc.I would look into an aftermarket system if I were you. It would probably be easier. I’m not a Honda tech, so look into people that have added it to their Honda’s. I’m sure you’re not the first person to have wanted to do that!Good luck![/quote]
For the AC system, I know that it is feasible because I saw one post at some point on 8thgen.com. But since I already removed the transmission I now have a lot more access to add everything needed except inside the dash.
I know that the flywheel is not in the best shape as I already had to change the clutch in December and I was not able to machine it at 100%. Even tough I changed the clutch recently I will still put a new clutch kit and a flywheel just because xD
But my real question would be what else should I do while almost everything is dismantled?
Thanks for you for your answer btw 🙂
In Canada there are still some cars sold without AC systems… since at least 2014 most of the cars sold here now have AC on the base models tough.
So yeah, my car never had AC
Exedy claim to make most of the OE clutch in Japan. But should the OEM clutch be unbranded?
Thanks everyone for your replies.
So I got to the shop last Thursday the technician took it for a drive and noticed the same issue as me but didn’t think my clutch was slipping bad enough to change it. We ended up lubricating the slave cylinder (It was a bit crusty and the clutch pedal were really heavy)
After a couple of days with this I can say it helped a lot with my issue. It helped it move more quickly and it is back to normal. My clutch is getting old but not enough to change it yet. That make me very happy!
That’s not what I wanted to hear but hey…. if I have to change it then i’ll do it i guess 🙁
Is there a good instructional video on how to change a clutch on a 8th gen civic? Did Eric ever did one?
Thanks
Is the 9005 one brighter than stock? if not I’ll be better keep my original then.
I noticed that there’s two option for the led circuit CREE and Phillips. What’s the difference?What are the disadvantage to not get a full 360 beam? I see that this has two led on each bulb so it got a full 360 beam. Would this be a better idea then?
Thanks
The Spark plugs has been changed as well as the check engine reset and it seems to run better on idle but the RPM is going up and down a couple of time before stabilizing at ~800 RPM. I also noticed that when I’m a half throttle it seems to be going up and down too and stop when I release and push again on it.
They also checked for vacuum leaks and didn’t find any…
Should I change the Coils pack or try something cheaper first?
Thanks
The Spark plugs has been changed as well as the check engine reset and it seems to run better on idle but the RPM is going up and down a couple of time before stabilizing at ~800 RPM. I also noticed that when I’m a half throttle it seems to be going up and down too and stop when I release and push again on it.
They also checked for vacuum leaks and didn’t find any…
Should I change the Coils pack or try something cheaper first?
Thanks
[quote=”wysetech” post=70344]Unless the car is running poorly or not able to pass a smog test I wouldn’t panic about repairing it. Check the hoses I mentioned for leaks first. If the rest of the car is in good condition you may decide to have another engine installed.
For now keep the oil topped up and drive it sensibly until you decide what to do.[/quote]
Alright, I will see how it goes tomorrow when i go back at the garage.
Thanks!
[quote=”wysetech” post=70344]Unless the car is running poorly or not able to pass a smog test I wouldn’t panic about repairing it. Check the hoses I mentioned for leaks first. If the rest of the car is in good condition you may decide to have another engine installed.
For now keep the oil topped up and drive it sensibly until you decide what to do.[/quote]
Alright, I will see how it goes tomorrow when i go back at the garage.
Thanks!
At this point is it worth to get the gasket changed? How long does it normally take to change that gasket on that type of engine?
[quote=”wysetech” post=70341]Those engines had a friction coating applied to the pistons at the factory and is prone to coming off and leaving a higher piston clearance to the cylinder wall. I think that’s at least some of the noise I hear and the reason your tech said not to spend money on it.
I know of one that has been noisy for 3 or 4 years and still going but that’s no guaranty.
I think you have a vacuum leak somewhere based on the codes given. There are vacuum lines that run from the top of the throttle body to the PCV valve, Fuel pressure regulator and MAP sensor. Be sure none of then are split or broken. An intake manifold gasket leak is possible as they are a high failure rate item.[/quote]
At this point is it worth to get the gasket changed? How long does it normally take to change that gasket on that type of engine?
[quote=”wysetech” post=70341]Those engines had a friction coating applied to the pistons at the factory and is prone to coming off and leaving a higher piston clearance to the cylinder wall. I think that’s at least some of the noise I hear and the reason your tech said not to spend money on it.
I know of one that has been noisy for 3 or 4 years and still going but that’s no guaranty.
I think you have a vacuum leak somewhere based on the codes given. There are vacuum lines that run from the top of the throttle body to the PCV valve, Fuel pressure regulator and MAP sensor. Be sure none of then are split or broken. An intake manifold gasket leak is possible as they are a high failure rate item.[/quote]
Alright thanks for your answer 🙂
I will post new info back in here as I get them 🙂
Thanks!
Alright thanks for your answer 🙂
I will post new info back in here as I get them 🙂
Thanks!
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