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never mind, i started removing DS yesterday. The U joints are serviceable, but the midshaft yolk is welded on making it impossible to get carrier bearing off to replace. Anyone ever use SKP products? Rock Auto has a SKP driveshaft that is pretty affordable. I just need it to work for a few months.
thanks. i have a set of those. I am currently trying to get starter and harness out so that I have enough room to hammer the 10mm/ 3/8 on …wish me luck. that bottom starter bolt is a b*&ch to get to
Thank you, I have seen this. But unfortunately the problem is that the bolt is already buggered up and seized. On top of that mine is a Gen 2 which has less working space and more interference issues than the gen three, in the video.
thank you
Yes I knew what the code was. So since I didn’t touch any wiring that had to do with the instrument cluster, does that mean that the cause could be the ECM I swapped in?
Thanks
thanks. ill try that, but it is a fairly new NAPA battery. Maybe I just got a bad one or a have a parasitic drain that toasted it
Haha…..as fun as that sounds, im thinking that might ruin the original appearance of it.
i have to check out the drive train when it gets here, if its junk than im going to re-power it with L-6 super hurricane and 4 speed from an FC170
thank you for your input. I do want to maintain it as stock as possible and only thought about upgrading brakes for driveabilty reasons where i live. Roads are very crowded here. I have never driven one of these myself so the stock brakes might be sufficient. No harm in fixing them out they way they are and trying it out
Attachments:Unfortunately Ford stopped putting drain plugs on the transmissions an torque converters in these trucks. After swapping out 8 qts I stood on brake and cycled the gears in an attempt to push fluid through their areas of valve body. By disconnecting the cooler return line and starting the engine, the transmission pumps the clean fluid from the pan,pushes it through the the transmission, through through the cooler and then out the return line into a bucket. As the new fluid is sucked up in the pan it it pushing the old though the system into a bucket. If I had a drain plug, I would have done it the way u suggested after replacing filter. So far no leaks, if I do get any, then I guess ill just have to replace the lines. I like to think of repairs as a great way to learn new things, that way they don’t become cumbersome
Just finished changing out brake fluid, PS fluid, t-case fluid, and trans fluid. PS was very very dark, so wasnt brake fluid. Used Preston DOT 3 and Merc V in PS. T case drained ~4.5 qts and it was still pretty red and didnt smell burnt or look gritty. This was my first time ever changing it. It only is supposed to hold 2 qts so i think my rear trans seal is leaking. For the transmission I attached 10ft of vinyl clear tube (3/8ID) to return line and started engine. Measured out 4 qts and stopped. Now pan is empty so I dropped it and replaced filter and cleaned magnet. Magnet was only a little fuzzy and pan had no debris in it. I found the factory dipstick plug still in there which means this was the first time the fluid has ever been changed. The fluid was very dark but you could still make out that it was red. I honestly expected there to be much more debris in pan seeing as there is 126k on this fluid and i use my truck for towing and hauling. gasket was reusable so i just cleaned everything up and bolted pan back up after replacing filter with new motorcraft one. Added 4 qts new castrol merc V then started engine and drained out 4 more qts. added 4 qts and then drained 4 qts. Added 4 more drained 2 then added 1.5. put the return line back in place and took the truck for a spin.
Results:
Brakes feel 10x more firm
PS feels smoother
Transmission shifts and accelerates like brand new. Even the bump when putting it into D is gone.I will check transmission level over the next week and top off as needed. Have 1.5 qts on hand in tool box
newer ford transmissions use LV i believe, but the 04-08’s still used Mercon V. Castrol has meet all requirements to label their product mercon V. Many ATF’s are universal and simple stay the meet or exceed ford specifications. Plus the difference between castrol and motorcraft was significant enough across 14 qts to matter and i know many f150′;s running the castrol
Thanks, I ordered Castrol Merc V from amazon at 31$ for a case of 6 and bought 3 cases. They should be here monday so I will update when all is said and done.
thanks for the reply, I think i am gonna try to swap out all the fluid. Im gonna attach a clear tube to the return line so I can sit in the drivers seat and see the line until it starts to bubble. The pan only hold 4 qts out of the 14 so I will only be able to pump out 4 qts of the old at a time.
thanks, but the radio I was looking at was pre-2000 which wouldn’t have that feature …..maybe ill just try to find a not tacky aftermarket
Do Honda/Acura radios require a code absolutely every time they loose power? My VW I have only asks for it sometimes. If it asks for a code i just re-disconect battery, wait 10 min and reconnect and it usually doesn’t ask for it.
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