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Nice video!
I attempted a trailing arm bushing replacement once, but the toe control link bolt used for adjusting toe was rusted frozen in to the bushing. In that case what could have been done to free it?
I ended up not replacing those bushings.
Thanks wysetech! I didn’t think about that and it was something that was suggested by a friend. Hope I didn’t do any damage! The car is running fine for now. The funny thing is that the lights were always flickering at a cyclical manner (about 5 hz) for the past 2+ years since I’ve owned it. With the new battery, that has gone away.
A did a little search on online and found this explanation on http://www.batteryfaq.org/
9.2.12. Never disconnect a car battery cable from a vehicle with the engine running because the battery acts like a filter for the electrical system. Unfiltered (pulsating DC) electricity sometimes exceeding 40 volts is produced by the alternator and can damage expensive electronic and electrical components such as the emissions computer, audio system, charging system, alarm system, etc.
Thanks wysetech! I didn’t think about that and it was something that was suggested by a friend. Hope I didn’t do any damage! The car is running fine for now. The funny thing is that the lights were always flickering at a cyclical manner (about 5 hz) for the past 2+ years since I’ve owned it. With the new battery, that has gone away.
A did a little search on online and found this explanation on http://www.batteryfaq.org/
9.2.12. Never disconnect a car battery cable from a vehicle with the engine running because the battery acts like a filter for the electrical system. Unfiltered (pulsating DC) electricity sometimes exceeding 40 volts is produced by the alternator and can damage expensive electronic and electrical components such as the emissions computer, audio system, charging system, alarm system, etc.
Just redid the voltage test across the battery terminals.
Battery Voltage 12.5 V
Engine idle no Accessories running 14.4 V
Engine idle with radio, AC, defrost, and high beams on, 14.2 VAll of the flickering is gone with new battery installed, but returns when I disconnect the battery with the car at idle.
My intuition is leading me to believe the the alternator is producing enough power, but there may still be an internal problem with the alternator not being able to produce clean DC voltage.
Just redid the voltage test across the battery terminals.
Battery Voltage 12.5 V
Engine idle no Accessories running 14.4 V
Engine idle with radio, AC, defrost, and high beams on, 14.2 VAll of the flickering is gone with new battery installed, but returns when I disconnect the battery with the car at idle.
My intuition is leading me to believe the the alternator is producing enough power, but there may still be an internal problem with the alternator not being able to produce clean DC voltage.
I just did the test that you mentioned, dollman0, and the positive test came out to 0.112 volts with the engine running and no load; 0.226 volts with AC on high and defrost on. On the negative side it was about 0.05 volts. So this means that its not the alternator, right?
I had to purchase a new battery to perform this test and of course everything is fine with a fresh 12v source. With the car running, the voltage across the battery terminals is 13.8 volts.
Just as a precaution I performed a parasitic load test, and found that to be about 0.02 volts.
I hope its just needs something as simple as a battery. After all, the old one was 5 years old.
I just did the test that you mentioned, dollman0, and the positive test came out to 0.112 volts with the engine running and no load; 0.226 volts with AC on high and defrost on. On the negative side it was about 0.05 volts. So this means that its not the alternator, right?
I had to purchase a new battery to perform this test and of course everything is fine with a fresh 12v source. With the car running, the voltage across the battery terminals is 13.8 volts.
Just as a precaution I performed a parasitic load test, and found that to be about 0.02 volts.
I hope its just needs something as simple as a battery. After all, the old one was 5 years old.
Just tested the alternator and it was fine. What I did find odd is that they didn’t test for amperage. I purchased and alternator anyways and they said that if it didn’t fix it I can return it. I also cleaned the battery terminals and couple of the engine ground wires.
Just tested the alternator and it was fine. What I did find odd is that they didn’t test for amperage. I purchased and alternator anyways and they said that if it didn’t fix it I can return it. I also cleaned the battery terminals and couple of the engine ground wires.