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Thanks for the correction, Dreamer. I strive to be right, or accept corrections and learn.
My Army Service covers ASE Minimum req. 2 years. T)
Although, when you condense it down to actual experience, I would say it’s more like 6 months. 2 Month Military Mechanic school = 1 month ASE. 12 months at WyoTech = 6 months ASE. 2 months at Spiffy Lube. So I figure my real total to be 15 out of 24 months as of Graduation. lol I may try to take ASE practice tests or wait a little bit. IDKAnd I know that my education barely scratches the surface. During the Automotive program, I learned something almost every day that I would never have dreamed of in a million years. If WyoTech didn’t teach me something like that on a Monday, I got double on Tuesday.
canobd2.com
Now, “P” codes are Powertrain “B”ody “C”hassis and I think “U” is what they have for ABS…
‘”0″ Means it’s SAE standardized across the board. But a “1” is Manufacturer Specific
The third place is usually the component
and the 4th & 5th ones are the specific circuitEXAMPLE: P0306 is Powertrain, SAE Standardized code, Engine, Missfire Cylinder #6
Some new stuff is cool, but well, quite honestly, phuque that shizit! It’s retarded. All to prevent “Global Warming”.
Let me tell you something, January 2011 where I’m at saw 60 below 0 Fahrenhite with an aditional 30 degree colder windchill. weather.com stated that felt like 100 below! This was the coldest place on the entire PLANET for 6 hours.
Global Warming? Smog? Are you phuqueing serious?! Say ‘hi’ to Santa Claus for me. And tell the tooth fairy that she owes me $0.50.
Thanks, Shaun.
Let me run this theory by you:
Average work week is 40 hours. 8 hours per day, 5 days per week. So, If I work 12 hours per day, 6 days per week at 72 hours, I’ll get more cars in and out of my bay. The more cars that one repairs, the more knowledge he gains as a Tech.
Ipso Facto, if I put in more daily hours and more days per week, I’ll learn faster and progress to the top, and take less years to get there. Right??
Why all of the sensors? So the engineers can talk to each other and say: “Dude, wait til the techs get ahold of THIS one!” Freakin B@$t@rd$. No car in the history of Earth actually NEEDS any of this electronics garbage. Give me a Sloburetor and a Distributor, I’ll be just fine. You can tune the whole engine with a piece of pocket change in a pinch.
Dude, yours is the best sig I have ever seen anywhere. ‘Cept MAYBE “horsepower sells cars. torque wins races”
Junk @$$ foreign sh1t! STOP flying my country’s flag on your foreign, cracker-jack cars!
Wild dream car: 1932 Ford 3 Window Coupe ‘glass repro body on ’32 frame. Rear fenders bobbed, no running boards or front fenders. Grille Chopped 2″ Nose, deck, and top chopped. Open engine, zumies. 565 CID Chevy pumping 2500BHP on Alcohol with Blower. Sloburated. Goals/reason why? 1/4 mile ET. 6.00
Ashes to ashes,
And dust to dust,
If it wasn’t for Fords,
Our tools would rust.I’m the middle of the road on that whole thing. If professional Techs (kinda hard to include myself in that since I’m still in school) take their knowledge and just “give it away”, then yes, eventually, there would be no need for pros because everybody could fix it themselves.
But if we, as automotive enthusiasts, and helpful Henry’s take the time to share some basics and give simple advice, this will become a better world for all of us.
I just like to be completely covered in grease, oil, and ATF.
So, Shaun, once I get my foot in the proverbial door, what next? How can I rapidly accel to the top?
November 8, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: Anything you always look for when checking out a used car? #443883Show me the carfax
You should be able to reach your goal with a good intake/exhaust system, and a Turbo. Heck, I think a good turbo alone is enough
The ETCG ones should come manget optional so I can buy some with and some without.
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