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[quote=”Dizplay” post=154493]I reckon newer cars are “better”. They are more reliable, comfortable, economical and they don’t rust as much. I feel like a lot of people forget about the rust thing… newer cars don’t seem to rust as much. Another thing people like to complain about is how newer cars are difficult to work on – times have changed, so have the tools you need to repair cars. Gone are the days where old Dave from down the road was fixing 1960s Fords with a hammer and a few bent screwdrivers.
To me, anything that came standard with fuel injection and ABS is a modern car. I was born in 1994 and drive a 2000 year car.[/quote]
You can galvanize the older metal to solve the rust problem, or just keep it out of salt.[quote=”monster_ct” post=154398]Because you like the Mac and Snap-on tools better how do you feel about Williams tools, which is part of the Snap-on industrial group? Proto tools are also part of Stanley Black and Decker. I am looking to get USA made tools with a good warranty program for my schooling. Any input would be appreciated.[/quote] I haven’t used Williams, however I hear it’s good stuff.
What you choose will ultimately be decided by discounts. If your school gives a discount for SO, that’s what you should go with while you have 50% or so off. The warranties are very similar for all top tier brands however, a tool truck makes it much easier to warranty stuff. That’s why for beginners I usually recommend starting with a craftsman mechanics set that you can warranty at any sears. Once you get serious about the trade and start doing heavy duty work your going to have to step up to MAC, SO and Matco(and the industrial brands like proto and williams). Tools such as ratchets should be top tier or made in the USA craftsmand at the very least. Torque wrenches should also be top tier.
Some tools like a breaker bar you can get by with Husky(home depot). I’ve been using a big 1/2 breaker bar for years by Husky with no complaints…it’s a pretty simple tool, you’d have to actually try to make a crappy one. SO/Mac and Matco are a waste of money for tools like that.
Same thing with hammers, channel locks, vice grips etc. No reason to buy a truck brand when there’s perfectly good USA made alternatives for less than half the cost.[quote=”ChrisKaye” post=154293]I think Chevyman hit it on the head: Planned Obsolescence!
Eric mentions comparing a car 20 years in the future with a car from this year, personally I’m thinking “yeah, right! Like a car from this year will last 20 more in able to be compared!”Besides we’ll all be in flying cars by then powered by mini fuel cells, right? ;)[/quote]
I’d have to agree with this. I have seen firsthand the rise and fall of quality. I’ve worked on stuff as early as the Ford Model A(1929).
I was born in the late 80s, but I’ve seen and owed cars from all decades. My current fleet of trucks is a prime example. I’ll quote another of mine:The older trucks are built better than the newer trucks, they last forever provided they don’t succumb to the rust monster. I have had multiple trucks, all from different eras. Even my current fleet shows the progression of degradation.
1955 Chevy: Solid sheetmetal(more like plate metal), thickest metal I’ve ever had on a truck. engine is original, has only been rebuilt once. Manual transmission has never been touched and still shifts great. 60 year old truck all original.
1974 Chevy: Decent thickness sheetmetal, original engine has been rebuilt twice, manual transmission still shifts great, wiring has had to be redone and floors have had to be fixed from rot (floors are thinner than the 55′). 41 year old truck, mostly original
1998 Dodge: Sheetmetal is 50% thinner than the 74′, more rust in less time(17 years), engine still running strong(318 with FI), auto tranny shifts good(OD 727) basically all old school mechanical components from dodges heyday.
2008 Chevy(No longer have this truck): Sheetmetal was paper thin…just looking at it made it crease and ding, engine had a misfire at 40,000 miles, transmission started going out at 51,000 miles, brakes didn’t last more than 30,000 miles, frame looked like it had been underwater after 4 years, bed dinged from the lightest loads shifting, brake drums couldn’t even be resurfaced, paint was thin and chipped easily, wheels oxidized after 2 years, among other things.
The truth is, just like refrigerators, washers and other appliances they just don’t make’m like they used to.
The more complicated you make the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain, and the cheaper the pipes you use, the more leaks your gonna have.I’ve weighed in on this subject quite a bit in the past. I believe that older is better generally. But there are so many ways to look at it.
I’ve had 4 trucks, three of which I still have and the metal is far superior on the older trucks. Sure, it’s not galvanized but it’s also not recycled overseas steel either and it’s THICK!.
There is no denying that things were made to last in the old days, today it’s all about “smalller, lighter, cheaper” and along with industry crippling regulations and planned obsolescence newer cars/trucks are disposable due to their complexity and parts cost alone.Anything could be rebuilt in the old days, whether it be a starter, alternator, radiator, engine, transmission, fuel pump etc,
Today, everything is made to be replaced and while cars today require less “maintenance and tuneup”, the parts are usually non rebuild-able and expensive to buy and replace.
Mechanical fuel pump: 45 dollars
Fuel pump sending unit(electrical): 300-700 dollars(for the sake for the sake of discussion)That’s just one example. Then of course it is much easier to service anything on an older car or truck due to the simplicity and with basic tools to boot in most cases. Newer cars you gotta remove this to get to this to get to this and you often need that one special tool you don’t have.
Then, theres the character of older cars, they were real works of art..not hampered by safety, efficiency and emissions regulations of today that destroy automotive design by forcing engineers and designers to bend to the government, environmentalists and safety lobbies will .
Driving an older car, you are fully connected to the vehicle and the road. No electronic nannys, all the smells, sounds and feel as well as the quirks that a computer/design in a newer car would mask. Newer cars are so binary and cold, on or off. No real connection.There are so many aspects to this topic, I have left quite a bit out due to getting tired of typing B)
UPDATE!
First day went well. Seems like my kinda place. Looking forward to tomorrow and will give an update end week.
[quote=”Pitt” post=153843]I still appreciate MDK22 tking his personal time from work, hobbies, friends and family to write this. And yes he can only recommend tools that he uses/owns.
ETCG only does tool reviews on tools that he can use, or tools that are sent to him for review. I wish more people appreciated the time forum members take to help others out. I know it has helped me tremendously.[/quote]
I’ve always found this post to be one of the best on the forum, so when applicable I reference it to other members looking to get into the field.
I’ve been on the forum about a year and a half(a bit less recently due to my own life getting in the way) and MDK22 probably is one of the most knowledgeable regular members here along with Fopeano.[quote=”Daveqc” post=153720]Thanks for your reply,
You are right, it wasn’t clear. Let’s me explaine a bit more. I own a 03 civic and a 05 Corolla. I perform as much as maintenance and repaire as I could on my cars. I am interest to lean more about how cars in general work. I would say modern cars. I am not looking for a book for a specific model but more a reference that cover the principles of each system of a car. Let’s say a chapter per system you mention. I hope that precise my need.
thanks again!
regards,[/quote] Well thats a bit more specific.Unfortunately not all of those systems would be covered in a single book due to the massive amount of content.
I feel that your best bet is internet resources, in fact there are sites dedicated to it such as: http://www.aa1car.com/Best of all the information is free, and it’s all at your disposal without turning a single page.
I wish there was one book that covered it all, but that’s impossible. There are too many things to compile into one single book.
I mean , engine repair alone you could make 2 books out of.
Then you got electrical, transmissions, HVAC, diesel, engine performance, fuel, ignition, axles, suspension, hybrids, CNG, brakes and wheels etc.I am unsure what you are wanting to accomplish. Shop and service manuals cover everything on individual models.
For example:
Which I actually bought for my 55′ Chevy Truck. In depth everything you need to know about a particular model.
Covering model years 1900-2015 of all makes and models would be impossible in a single book.
If you tell us what particularity you are looking for it will be easier to pinpoint the best option.
[quote=”Fopeano” post=153267]I’ve never had a easy time changing shops, and I feel lucky I’ve only done it 6 times. I’ve had various issues with my current employer and I have a friend with a shop with whom I’ve had some serious discussion about working with, but I’ve still been able to remain stable at my job. It sure does get tempting sometimes though, when too many stupid things happen in a short period of time. When it comes down to it though, I’m luck for the situation I have. My boss says that I’m “un-fireable”, I get paid an above-average wage for my demography, and I have a key to the building so I can come work on my shit when the place is empty. My point being, I hope that this move will help you get to a point in your career where you can only admit that you actually have it pretty good. [/quote]
Un-fireable, that is a flattering statement I’m sure.
I hope so too, I need to keep adding to my skillset as well as bank account. I want to be at a point someday where I can say “I’m a seasoned veteran mechanic with 40 years of experience” I want to be well versed in everything possible.
Ultimately, 15-25 years down the line, I would like to get into restoration and to do that I need to be well seasoned. My truck and tractor restorations barley even scratch the surface of what I need for credentials. Being in my mid twenties now, I feel my goals are achievable from the point I’m at now. I feel like this is a forward move, time to seize it.
Will update as soon as I start!I encourage you to check out this post by one of our members here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/15-Technicians-Only/55499-so-you-want-are-going-to-be-a-mechanic-technician?limitstart=0
As a fairly experienced technician, I can give you the following advice:
1. Get ready to be hazed. This is common in shops and for a greenhorn it is even worse. Usually it is a test to see if you will make it. Which leads us to…
2. Have a thick skin
3. Obtain your own tools asap, even if you have to get Craftsman set to start, thats what most of us started with; eventually you acquire an arsenal of tools if you make it long enough. My setup went from a little Craftsman tool set and a carry box to a massive array of tools and equipment in stacked and rowed toolboxes. I even fabbed up a rolling workbech!
4. Listen to the other techs, when starting out, this is probably the most important thing. Don’t be a know it all. Being a know it all quickly gets you marked for failure.
5. Take your time, speed will come with time.Sealed for life transmissions are where I draw the line. First of nothing is “sealed for life” and it should be serviced regularly. “Life” means the manufacturers predetermined life of the vehicle, which can be from 100,000-200,000 miles for example.
Naturally, this number can vary greatly as individual use, quality control, and make all add variables.
As far as servicing “normal transmissions” I do so regularly both manuals and automatics.
The sealed for life trannies I prefer to leave alone however upon customer request I will service them.[quote=”techjim” post=152921]when switching shops in the future i would recommend taking a week off from your current job and work a week at the new one . i wish i had done that this time but live and learn i guess .[/quote] That’s actually a really smart way to do things. Provided you can get the week off.
[quote=”Pitt” post=153045]The last two weeks at my shop have been weird. I’ve been getting hand picked cherry work. The foreman has treated me like gold, but never asked me straight up to stay. While a few of the other techs have given him a piece of their mind about me leaving because of his games.
Now the foreman is running around to all the lube techs offering bonuses if they get as little as $1,000 in upsells. It’s like the foreman and service manager all of a sudden realize just how bad things are about to be, and someone has to answer for it. They realize now it won’t be the techs. I was talking to one of our master techs on a smoke break. He was about one more broken promise from walking out the door, and then looking for a job. It amazes me how 13 techs can walk after the new dispatcher starts and he still has his job.[/quote] In alot of cases, there is such a chain reaction.
One thing often does affect another. I couldn’t take the dealership world when I was in it, it was too much BS and politics.
Someone who is unable to be upfront is not someone I want to be working with or for.
My current boss(independent shop owner) is a good guy that is upfront. My new boss(the indie shop im going too) is the same way.
Politics and games don’t fly with someone like me. You either tell me what I need to hear or l want nothing to do with you.
I’m like that even with women… no games no bullshit.No dipstick on that car. Sad but true. You check the level almost like you would with a manual gearbox as stated above.
Any sealed for life claim by any manufacturer is horse rubbish. Sealed for life means “planned obsolescence”.
You want to change that fluid every 60-100k.Considering your manual says 60k I would follow the recommendation.
Ya, it’s just how it goes.
My boss appreciated the two weeks notice and was glad that I gave it.
He did however try to get me to stay by telling me that he would give me more vacation time and a pay raise. However, when he found out how much my hourly rate was going to be at the shop I was moving to, he realized he couldn’t match it.
It’s nice to feel wanted and needed, but it always makes me feel guilty to tell the losing party that well..their losing.