[Gary]

Used cars can be tricky. I took a risk in buying a 40 year old truck myself. Heres what I do when buying a used car to ensure I’m not buying a headache:

1. Give the car/truck a very detailed visual inspection(underhood, underbody, interior, exterior etc.)
2. Run the car and check for leaks in all the usual spots
3. Test drive and listen, feel, smell, and look for anything unusual
4. Hook up a vacuum gauge(if the place/person really wants to make a sale they will let you do this) and check the general engines operating condition if you know how to interpret readings.
5. Ask about the cars history… in my trucks case it was very well documented in a papertrail all the way back to 1974

If all these check out I would say its safe(make sure you get a title too). As far as honda reliability I agree with Wysetech, their quality has gone downhill in recent years and are certainly not as good as they used to be. If you are looking for reliability I would recommend Volkswagen or Toyota. I’m a domestic American car guy though and if you are looking for something generally easy and cheap to work on the American brands are the way to go. Volkswagen doesn’t fall under easy or cheap to work on at all trust me. A timing belt job on VWs is a nightmare to do.

[Gary]

I have quite a few favorites since I’m a muscle car fanatic lol

1. 1970 Chevy Chevelle SS 454
2. 1969 Chevy Camaro Z/28 302 or even better Don Yenko 427
3. 1969 Dodge Charger R/T
4. 1970 Plymouth Barracuda 440 Six Pac
5. 1969 Chevy Nova SS

[Gary]

I have quite a few favorites since I’m a muscle car fanatic lol

1. 1970 Chevy Chevelle SS 454
2. 1969 Chevy Camaro Z/28 302 or even better Don Yenko 427
3. 1969 Dodge Charger R/T
4. 1970 Plymouth Barracuda 440 Six Pac
5. 1969 Chevy Nova SS

[Gary]

It runs alot better. I feel I have quite a bit more power. I further advanced the timing since. I am now at 8 degrees initial timing at idle. And thank you Eric, I love the valve covers too. I should post a current picture on this thread tommorow because I just changed out the master cylinder today so no more rusty cylinder.

[Gary]

It runs alot better. I feel I have quite a bit more power. I further advanced the timing since. I am now at 8 degrees initial timing at idle. And thank you Eric, I love the valve covers too. I should post a current picture on this thread tommorow because I just changed out the master cylinder today so no more rusty cylinder.

[Gary]

I apoligize for the late update y’all, ive been havin some family issues to work out. Here is what I’ve done:

1. Advanced the initial timing to 6 degrees before TDC
2. Adjusted the idle mixture screws evenly
3. Raised the idle speed slightly

After these adjustments I achieved 19 inches/hg. It seems it was mainly a timing issue since the idle to 2k rpm test with a snap of the throttle allowed me to believe the rings and seals are in good shape even before I started messing with the timing.

Attached is a picture of my setup. Its been cleaned up a little bit since then. Ive added new headers, plugs/wires, air cleaner, breather, etc since the picture was taken. Yes it is a quadrajet 🙂

Attachments:

• IMG_8626.jpg

[Gary]

I apoligize for the late update y’all, ive been havin some family issues to work out. Here is what I’ve done:

1. Advanced the initial timing to 6 degrees before TDC
2. Adjusted the idle mixture screws evenly
3. Raised the idle speed slightly

After these adjustments I achieved 19 inches/hg. It seems it was mainly a timing issue since the idle to 2k rpm test with a snap of the throttle allowed me to believe the rings and seals are in good shape even before I started messing with the timing.

Attached is a picture of my setup. Its been cleaned up a little bit since then. Ive added new headers, plugs/wires, air cleaner, breather, etc since the picture was taken. Yes it is a quadrajet 🙂

Attachments:

• IMG_8626.jpg

[Gary]

Thank you its 97% restored up to this point. Gotta do the floorboards and inner rockers next. And hahaha to the gary the snail picture that made my night!

[Gary]

Thank you its 97% restored up to this point. Gotta do the floorboards and inner rockers next. And hahaha to the gary the snail picture that made my night!

[Gary]

Ok thank you very much. I will check the timing tomorrow and post my findings here. I just assumed the old 454s normally just have some visible blowby in high humidity environments with the pcv system disconnected and it aint like im blowing the pcv valve out of the valve cover 🙂 .

[Gary]

Ok thank you very much. I will check the timing tomorrow and post my findings here. I just assumed the old 454s normally just have some visible blowby in high humidity environments with the pcv system disconnected and it aint like im blowing the pcv valve out of the valve cover 🙂 .

[Gary]

Wow that is quite a bit of info. I see why full manifold makes more sense now and that I should probably slightly advance the initial timing like you suggested. But, how will this all affect the “blowby” that I’m experiencing with the PCV system disconnected(it ain’t disconnected now it was only disconnected for the vacuum gauge)?

[Gary]

Wow that is quite a bit of info. I see why full manifold makes more sense now and that I should probably slightly advance the initial timing like you suggested. But, how will this all affect the “blowby” that I’m experiencing with the PCV system disconnected(it ain’t disconnected now it was only disconnected for the vacuum gauge)?

[Gary]

It is most certainly ported in that case as I thought. Above the throttle plate and such. Now if I tee’d it off to a live manifold vacuum source what would be the goal of that? I should also add the make and type of distributor, it is a Delco Remy HEI Distributor

[Gary]

It is most certainly ported in that case as I thought. Above the throttle plate and such. Now if I tee’d it off to a live manifold vacuum source what would be the goal of that? I should also add the make and type of distributor, it is a Delco Remy HEI Distributor

[Author]

Replies