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1. I’ve got an oil squirt can I plan on doing that with, how much should I actually put in? Also would it be safe to turn the engine with the fan, as there is no bolt on the crank pulley, only a “key”?
2. The antifreeze is fresh, I checked it and it tests excellent, even though it’s been sitting in there for a while.
3. I inspected the hoses and the belt yesterday, all looks good there!
4. I have a new cap, points, and condenser on the way, I figure replacing them all will be for the best.
5. Tranny is the three speed manual, it uses heavy duty gear oil, I plan on changing that out once the engine runs.
6. That’s on the list when I tune up the ignition system for sure!
7. There is a hole further down in the pip after the manifold after careful inspection. It will be getting some new pipes once the engine runs again
8. Sadly it will need all new tires it seems, all four are dry rotted. The brake pedal returns,however I’m sure pulling the drums off will reveal some rusted springs.This is going to be a multi weekend project and I appreciate all the help I can get!
I am also replacing the valve cover gasket, is there anything specific I should check in reference to the rocker arms and springs when im under there?[quote=”oldskll” post=193617]I too went to college for a degree in auto service. A majority of the guys in my class went on to pursue a degree in engineering after earning their associates degree. I worked in the repair field for 8yrs. Other than my dealership experience, the independent shops that I worked were good. I didn’t make a killing but it worked out. Most of the customers I dealt with were ok but the few bad ones over shadowed the good. Winters were tough & the physical toll was starting to catch up with me. I just got lucky & got into the engineering department at an OEM auto supplier. I worked in the engine dynamometer lab for a couple of years then transferred to NVH department where I currently am now. Now I get to deal with engineers for a customer![/quote]
Yes, it seems alot of guys that once worked in auto repair who have the book smarts become engineers. I’m constantly told by family, friends and my girlfriends(soon to be fiance’s) family that I made the right choice. My fiance’s grandfather told me that I was smart to get out and that I had a much brighter future in computer engineering. He owned an auto repair shop for many years. He knows how it is. He is in poor health due to his time working in automotive.
I want to be around for a long time, not get poisoned and kill my back and body for some ungrateful shop owner who works me like a dog and doesn’t pay me what I’m worth.
These shop owners wonder why there is a “shortage” of mechanics….I can think of a long list of reasons.
Most of these shop owners don’t even follow OSHA and EPA guidelines so the work environments are often very toxic.I personally wouldn’t recommend anyone who enjoys working on cars to actually go into this field. Keep it a hobby. That’s what I am going to do and should have done in the first place.
If you want to work with your hands, their is a brighter future in HVAC, Plumbing, and Construction. You will also have beter pay and working conditions in those.
If you have the book smarts stay in school and go for business, engineering, or the medical field.
Working on other peoples cars is not the same as working on your own stuff. Not even close.[quote=”nightflyr” post=167941]Though not specific to yours..
I assume the basics are the same[/quote]
I will have to look into that. The regulator box that contains those components is also original to the truck so it’s entirely possible.[quote=”nightflyr” post=167938]I wonder if perhaps there may be an issue with one of the shunt windings:
Without specifics … here is a 1950-51 wiring diagram
[/quote]
Even though that diagram is for the older 6 volt system(GM switched to 12 volt in 1955) is is still very similar to how the truck is wired, similar enough to use.
By the shunt windings, are you talking about the ones inside the generator?
[quote=”nightflyr” post=167930]In a vehicle that old:
I would be looking for a possible short in the generator or the starter circuit.You can still do a parasitic draw test, but in your situation instead of pulling fuses you’ll need to start disconnecting electrical connections
IE. generator power feed, power feed to the starter switch then starter motor.Is it possible for the battery to lose that much charge sitting for three weeks without the engine being run?
If the battery wasn’t fully charged to begin with.If I remember correctly:
Unlike a alternator, which replaces what the vehicle uses from the battery.
A generator system actually supplies power to the vehicles electrical system and I assume some type of recharging circuit to replenish the battery, which may be at fault for a discharge condition.[/quote]I’ve confirmed it’s not within the starting circuit, as I’ve put my multimeter on it and when my foot is not on the pedal, there is no voltage going through it.
Actually, the button that is pushed by the foot rod is untouched and when depressed, move voltage through. So it is functioning as normal(this is the original starter)
As far as the generator is concerned, it is the original generator and it’s power is routed through a voltage regulator(which serves as a distribution center) on the firewall(also original) to the ignition system and ammeter. There is NO direct connection to the battery.
The Battery is connected to the starter and ground, that’s it.
The battery is also brand new, it was fully charged.
I believe you are correct, the generator powers the vehicle and the battery simply starts it. After starting, the battery has no hand in the matter.Foot on Starter>Crank Engine>Cranks Generator>Key Closes Ignition Circuit>Starts Ignition>Engine Firing>Starter Circuit Disengage
So in theory, the battery gets the excess charge from ground, as the generator is grounded, not directly charged.
It still leaves the mystery however.
[quote=”gmule” post=157246]That engine uses the crank sensor to detect misfires so it won’t call out the individual cylinder that is misfiring.
With that being said that engine uses an injector unit with 6 injectors in a central location under the upper intake manifold. From the injector bank there are runner lines to each cylinder. The nozzles at the end of the runners have a tendency to plug up and the spray volume or spray pattern is disrupted causing a misfire. Sometimes you can clean them up with some fuel injector cleaner. If you are sure the ignition system is not the problem run a can of BG44k through the tank and see if that clears it up.Another issue with these engines is that the distributor gear will wear out causing the distributor to be a little sloppy causing a misfire.[/quote]
That’s right, the V8s switched design..what I was thinking of. The 4.3, yes that’s right. Was too tired last night to think clearly lol.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=157216]Check Spark plugs, Do a power balance test. May be something mechanical as well (compression test may be necessary)
-Karl[/quote]
P0300 would be a random misfire, hence not isolated to a single cylinder. Unless the entire engine is low on compression, I would doubt it’s mechanical.
Oddly enough, the wrong torque converter can cause this too(I speak from experience from a high stall converter on a GM truck), if a much smaller converter with less rotating mass, of course this results in a false code.
I’m inclined to say this is a fuel delivery issue
The engine should be fuel injected and not TBI, therefore fuel pump, filter or regulator may be suspect. Of course, this may or may not cause a lean code.Loss of engine compression to the point where it’s misfiring like this would likely result in a rich code…inclined to say fuel system issue.
Wondering where he got the new/used engine from? That would help establish what we could be dealing with.
It’s late, no idea why I’m still up haha.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=157069]It seems many of you share my sickness. Cool.[/quote]
You don’t even wanna know my endgoal Eric, lol.What I’ve got now is only the beginning of a massive planned collection that I hope to retire with lol.
A truck for each decade of the 20th century is the beginning of my plan to have a barn full of 20th century cars, trucks, old Texaco signs and vintage Cocacola machines and other memorabilia by retirement.
A classic car enthusiasts dream retirement, surrounded by hundreds of classic cars and memorabilia.
I promised my dad a 57′ Chevy Belair…so that’s a restoration project I need to undertake while he’s still around.
My “fleet” consists of three trucks and a tractor.
The daily driver(the 98′ Ram) requires the most maintenance because daily driver
74′ Chevy: Actually decided to turn this into my tow rig due to it’s serious capability. Requires adjustments periodically due to being carbed and distributed as well as the typical regular maintenance. Not driven often enough to require the same amount of maintenance and attention as the Ram.
55′ Chevy: The show truck, so far it’s been garaged since I’ve gotten it and ran inside the garage periodically to keep things in good order. My ultimate baby in perfect running shape.
78′ John Deere: The yard workhorse for all seasons, tilling mowiing, plowing etc the maintenance required is more than all the trucks combined to keep in top running shape. Of course, it’s worked and run alot more and keeps on ticking.
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=155772]i am guessing the 74 is that chevy with the 454 big block and the low gears you have? yea… a ford F-150 would throw a connecting rod trying to tow with that.
yea i know the government wants to push better fuel economy, but they have too much control, people who know nothing about automobiles should have no say in our automotive industry, just like people that can’t tell the difference between a BB gun and a real gun shouldn’t have a say in our second amendment rights.[/quote] That’d be the one.
Ya, there’s a certain faction in this country that is trying to strip us of our say and constitutional rights.
Ya, nevermind the difference between bolt action, semi auto, muzzleloader, fully auto, pistol, revolver etc.
The same people that call every rifle with an aggressive cosmetic design an “assault rifle”.
The same people that don’t realize that a AR-15 will actaully due less damage per pull of trigger than a 12 gauge shotgun
The same people that preach gun control will stop criminals and curb gun violence(statistics prove othwerwise)
and the same loonies that believe in man made climate change.
But I digress.[quote=”CARFAN117″ post=155742]I’ll check out that airlift for sure, sounds pretty cool.
100% agree with your 2nd paragraph, i’m not asking for anything more, they just didn’t do what they were supposed to. After some more research apparently its common for techs to forgot to do this, especially on prius’ because they are little more complex. I was able to bleed the system myself and just need the overflow topped off. I just wasn’t happy that they couldn’t do a simple task, nevertheless i’ll have to go back to get the coolant topped off and get the missing fasteners they forgot to put. I just wasn’t sure what to do if they keep insisting on paying a diagnostic charge.[/quote]
Well, if they keep asking, tell them the words they don’t want to hear: Small claims court.
I hope you took pictures of the missing fasteners and low coolant.[quote=”Bsosborne1″ post=155280]Its good to know GM (Isuzu) has gotten past the issues. Like I said I mostly work on Ford Diesels. The duramax techs I know have always given me crap about how “their” engine was less prone to failure. I was mostly just complaining about DPF’s and all the post 07 NOX stuff.
Also please understand this is the opinion of a guy who spends all day tracking down tiny leaks in High pressure oil systems that cripple 6.0s while almost never having to touch the 7.3s. I’m a bit jaded[/quote]
No Ford diesel will ever be as robust and reliable as the harvester 7.3.
The Duramax has gotten better, we are past that nasty fuel injector issue.
Cummins still retains the upperhand.[quote=”Bsosborne1″ post=155179]I would not recommend using a stock 4l60E for towing that weight. The 5.3 has the power but the 4l60E isn’t great in its stock config. I would recommend you have the tranny rebuilt by someone who knows how to strengthen these units into something more robust. Or you can swap in a 6.0 with a 4l80E. Its more work and more money but it would make a great tow rig. What ever you choose to do I would re gear your differentials. with 33’s and a need to tow you should considers 4:00s or even better 4:10s.
Those trucks can have pretty high gears from factory. Going to a gear more fit for towing and your tire size with benefit you greatly. As a bonus it will help you get more “power” out of your stock motor. The down side is your motor will turn at more Rpms at highway speed. Some of that will be negated by the tire size you run. I wouldn’t be surprised if your stock truck has 3.53 gears in it now. Chevy loved those in the Z71
As for the swap the 5.3 is a pretty simple motor. When selecting a motor I suggest an 03-05. Find one with the “862” castings cylinder heads. It will last you 300,000 miles plus if you take care of it. Plan on putting some long tube headers and a good tune on it if you want to see it really come alive![/quote]
This is true, the 4L60-E is…meh for towing. The drop from 1st to second alone is hard on it. It needs to be strengthened with a stronger sunshell, thicker 2-4 band, 7 piece 3-4 clutch pack, aluminum accumulator, firmer 2-3 servo, and if desired 5 pinion planetaries.