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[quote=”Chaz9496″ post=139775][quote=”cap269″ post=139759][quote=”Chaz9496″ post=139757]I also needed to add that my Mom has a 2003 L200 same engine and we looked at the relays in her’s tonight and found that the relay top lettering are right side up on her fuse block and my clutch relay and one other is upside down. We were stumped at that one too. Interesting.[/quote]
Does her fuse box look the same? Same orientation and layout? Perhaps somehow your relay got installed backwards.[/quote]Yup. All the same.[/quote]Just for the sake of argument, I’m going to go out and switch that replay around and see what I get. Stay tuned ! It’ll either blow another fuse or do nothing..
[quote=”cap269″ post=139759][quote=”Chaz9496″ post=139757]I also needed to add that my Mom has a 2003 L200 same engine and we looked at the relays in her’s tonight and found that the relay top lettering are right side up on her fuse block and my clutch relay and one other is upside down. We were stumped at that one too. Interesting.[/quote]
Does her fuse box look the same? Same orientation and layout? Perhaps somehow your relay got installed backwards.[/quote]Yup. All the same.
[quote=”Chaz9496″ post=139452]The service line DOES have a schrader valve.[/quote]Only on the refrig end. I removed the end to the gauge set and the yellow service line is open. My mistake to check that.
[quote=”cap269″ post=139758] Do not jumper the clutch directly to the battery if you haven’t checked to see if it is shorted first though, or your jumper wire will become a fuse and melt, or worse.[/quote]That’s what I was afraid of by attempting that.
I also needed to add that my Mom has a 2003 L200 same engine and we looked at the relays in her’s tonight and found that the relay top lettering are right side up on her fuse block and my clutch relay and one other is upside down. We were stumped at that one too. Interesting.
Did that the first time when it popped it. I would tend to believe that means the clutch is bad. As stated above, I assume that is correct how I jumped it, 30 to 87. I saw on a video that you can also do this with a jumper wire to the battery but don’t know what relay slot to use on the fuse block panel. We assumed the 87 prong slot to battery positive. Sorry, I’m not too good at the newer vehicles today. I repaired older ones in my teen days that were much simpler. Sorry to go on and on about the same issue but that’s how I learn about these things. Thanks for putting up with me which tend to Ware Out others on sites I’m a member of and give up. lol.
I plan to start over and wanted to add that we tried jumping the compressor clutch via the relay in the fuse box via the 4 relay prongs but kept blowing clutch fuses. So my question is, can you use the relay itself via a jumper wire on the numbered prongs to jump the compressor clutch on the bottom of the relay still plugged in the fuse box or does it have to be via a paper clip or jumper wire direct to the battery ? The issue is I need a diagram of the jumper method for that model Saturn if that won’t work. Youtube is really not useful for my model or I need to find a GM product that’s the same set-up as my Saturn to properly jump the clutch relay. Either way, I’m trying to save from having to install another compressor or clutch which is about the same price for a reman and having it be a wiring problem or bad relay instead of going thru all the trouble of changing one out, which isn’t really that bad on this vehicle. Hope I’m not being too confusing here.
I also found that I didn’t tighten one of the line fittings up and was leaking from that at first. I did get that fixed. Could it have drawn air into the system when this happened ? Will it need re-vacuumed if so ? I can do that. I don’t know if that has anything to do with the refrig issue or not. Thanks again.
I had to replace two lines that had cracks in them. Vacuumed out the system went to add oil via the low side can of oil shown above and come to find the system won’t take hardly any oil OR refrig. The manifold gauge on the low side is 3/4 of the way up and the high side low. The compressor won’t kick on at all. We can’t figure out how to jump the compressor to make it come on to test the clutch to see if it’s working. Nothing works to jump it momentarily and we followed the directions as stated on some YouTube videos on how to do this with no success. On another note, how can you feed refrig into the system with no compressor ? My friend that’s helping me with this says you can’t. That’s why the gauges are almost maxing out. Well, come to find out his does the same thing on his car that’s empty as well, except his compressor does come on but the gauge still almost maxes out as well and hardly drawing in any refrig. You can see the site glass still holding refrig when you disconnect the lines and still holding pressure in the lines as well. What in the jumpin’ Hell could be going on here ? I’ve also replaced the pressure switch. So I don’t believe it’s there. Possibly a bad gauge line or fitting is our next step. Something not letting any regrif in. I don’t know if this is a safety feature for the compressor or what it could be. We went thru the shop manual and are pretty much confused. Boy, Eric said they can be complicated. I guess so. I can’t afford to have this checked and hate to think how long it would be to even get it in a shop to check it with 90+ degree temps coming up. We’re talking about a 2001 Saturn 2.2L automatic if I didn’t state that already Thanks for any suggestions.
I was incorrect. By watching the A/C video again on recharging the system the service line DOES have a schrader valve. I’ll need to do further review on how the oil was added.
I work at Wal-hell and have checked. Nope. Just Dye W/Sealer. As of the shop issue, you can guess that one. That’s also why I had to settle for used lines. Just a little TRUE humor there.
I did get a new drier. I just don’t want the system to fail because I didn’t follow Eric’s advise to change the drier when you make any changes. I’ve also read this via a Saturn forum.
This is really hard for a former Ford driver of 32 years and have switched to a Saturn L200 with a 2.2L from 2001. I removed the lines from the same vehicle from the yard that were bad on mine and the system on that one was holding some pressure so I went ahead and pulled those lines. It was dated Feb. as the processed in date. Anyway, my system is completely empty, as of refrig. that is. Some oil as run out changing the lines tho. There is some still in it. I was just going by what I saw of Eric’s video that he also added oil to it after changing a bad line. As of the A/C oil via the can type, there isn’t any at our local parts stores. I called and checked the shelves today. I need to take the quickest way to get rolling I guess I’m saying. Tho Ford is no different. I just have only had an A/C that didn’t work on older cars back in school, but I didn’t care then. Not much else to explain. Sorry but it’s confusing to me what I need to do to make this work. I’ve never done any A/C repair. Thanks for your help either way.
Ah, but the groan changes pitch when you accelerate. That would be a clue that probably not the struts. Could be a lot of things. I’m considering doing a pump pressure test. Thanks for your comment.