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Haynes and Chilton’s manuals and other shop manuals are known to be wrong. I have plenty of proof. One issue was in 2004 when I needed to know where the fuel pump relay on my ’93 Ford Tempo was. Two shop manuals and the Dealership were dead wrong. I had to trace the wire to the pump. Found it on the strut tower on the drivers side in a relay box. Not even close to where it was listed by three different references. And to top it off I was given the wrong pump listed too. It was the $59 model not the $129 as shown at the parts store. Must have used an aftermarket or something or however that happens. Holy, Moly. There’s your proof. lol. I’ll keep checking for replies. I’d hate to have someone not know I’m backing up and walking behind me but It’s the drivers responsibility to watch for oncoming pedestrians or vehicles. Just sayin’ !!
Are these similar to the BMW engine a friend of mine was working on a few weeks ago ? These fit on the plugs and a lever snaps on the plugs with a wiring harness that snaps on those. I think a different design but basically the same thing ?!
This actually makes this the incorrect forum for this but are you saying that line of 4 boots in the bar that screws into the top of the cylinder head can need replacing as well ? Or whatever the technical name for that is.That would be why I’m not understanding the “Costly Issue”. That would make more sense if so.
Why ? Today that’s about all there is to a tune-up that I know of but I come from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s vehicle tune-up days when a lot more was involved to a standard TU. Thanks for your comment tho.
[quote=”lar1969″ post=142017]This is the DOHC engine, correct? How many miles are on this vehicle? What is the condition of the fluid (color and odor)?
This should help get you started
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems?start=3#AutomaticTransmissionsHesitation upon acceleration can be due to a couple things but if it hasn’t had a “tune up” (new plugs, wires, air and fuel filter) lately, I’d start there.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues%5B/quote%5DSorry to start a new thread on a prior discussion but I must have done the incorrect search for this. I always try and do that before starting a new one. It has 155,000 (Hiway Miles) and the engine is a DOHC. As stated above in my post the fluid is slightly darker than it should be and smells O.K. On a note: There are no plug wires on this engine. I know you were just stating that, if so. I’m going to read these over and I’ll see what I can do from there. Thanks for the links.I have a 1999 Olds Alero that does typically the same thing. The gauge will go from full down to 1/2, to full then the correct amount, then to empty etc. Actually fluctuating is the issue. I suspected a ground the sending unit ? And also the battery went dead because it sat for a few months over the winter in my garage and the needle has spun around to the opposite side of the full peg when the battery went dead. Yeah, figure that one. Never seen something like that before. That may be another symptom to whats going on with it. How to get that back over is inscrutable. lol. No reply to what was up to this issue posted yet. I also read that this was a common problem with these vehicles. Thanks for any advise.
Also it’s really hard to diagnose something that hasn’t done this for 5 months now and isn’t at the time either. I noticed that my Son had moved it today to a different stall.
[quote=”cap269″ post=141471][quote=”cap269″ post=141436]I’ve never seen a MAP sensor or its vacuum line cause a no-start.[/quote]
You’re correct, there is no vacuum line on a MAF sensor. BUT, I said MAP sensor, which DOES have a vacuum line, and that was in response to NT’s post.[/quote]I see that now. My mistake.
To sum it all up I think we’re back to the bad fuel pump issue. I got it started by pumping it and it did exactly what it did in Co. Backfired a few times under the hood and was jugging and after a few more times finally started. You can hear the pump running and it’s loud from outside the car and thru the back seat. It’s also louder than it was when you turn the key to the on position. There possibly may be a piece dirt or something stuck in it as to why it’s loud when it’s running is what I think may be happening and it may be heating up and shutting down, but that wouldn’t cause a no start issue I wouldn’t think when it’s cold. The fuel pump relay may be getting hot when it was shutting down. There’s also a misfire in reverse which is really strange because it’s only in reverse, not drive. This has been going on since We got it running in Dec after the new pump installation. No idea what that would be, especially in reverse only !?. It may misfire once in a while in drive I should say. It was sitting for a year before I replaced the pump, FYI. Thanks for your comments.
[quote=”wafrederick” post=141464]There is a fuel pump module underneath the back rear seat.What brand fuel pump did you install in 2014?If an Airtex,there is the problem and Airtex has very high failure rates since it is an aftermarket fuel pump.Ford uses Bosch and Walbro fuel pumps from the factory.[/quote]I don”t remember actually. I got it from an eBay seller. You can hear the pump coming on tho. Whether there’s good pressure or not…good question. AS noted above, it did stumble a little when I tried starting it again after I came down to help him push it into the stall. The tach did also bump when I turned it on and over. The compression sounded good on it by the cranking sound as well. Let me try a few things and see what I come up with. Better get it first than start spending money on a wild goose chase and still getting nothing. Thanks for your time everyone.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=141463]I asked about the trip length because I was entertaining the idea of ignition coil break down when hot. Stalling after chugging up steep slopes in the first incident, and then starting again after a 30 minute rest and cool down, had me thinking that could have been the case. But, given the short trip length this time, it seems much less likely, unless the coils have suddenly become much worse with the onset of summer heat.
Has the car started again since you first posted?
I really don’t think the 02 sensor would be your problem, especially not for the reasons you mentioned. Would it be possible to access any stored codes?[/quote]Not at the time. My friend down the street has a code scanner but he’s out of town. I should invest in one. A handy little tool for those kind of issues. No I haven’t tried to start it again since. It’s downstairs outside in the stall yet where we pushed it to. I have the keys tho.
I was thinking that an 02 sensor problem wouldn’t necessarily cause a stall out situation. More for a miss or rough idle, maybe.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=141435]When the car died in your driveway, was it after a long “road trip” kind of drive, (I’m assuming the Colorado mountain incident was that kind of drive), or was it just a short commuter hop?[/quote]Just from a 2 mile drive this time. I was thinking 02 sensor because why would it stall at a high altitude like that in CO. ? My cousin that works on cars for a hobby out there said the same thing when he ran a code scan on it and it only showed a high fuel pump circuit code. I changed the fuel pump in December ’14 because i bought it for my kid with it out. So we figured it was possibly because the pump was bad the first time and the code was never cleared. For reference there’s 207,000 mi. on it. Note: There’s no vacuum hoses to the MAF sensor. Never heard of that.
No change with the relay direction issue. I’m just taking it into the shop and having them do a diag on it. My Dad took things there and was happy with them and it’s only $100 for the complete check and I can decline service which I most likely will at those repair prices. And I want to do a evac correctly if there’s any refrig still in it which there still was when I checked the valve core this morning. It’s only right, you know ? At least I’ll know what to replace. Thanks for your help.