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[quote=”dollman0″ post=64228]I have been watching detailing videos for a while and invested into a Porter Cable orbital buffer 7424XP I think. Its really slow but for not having any buffing experience I did not want to burn the paint with a forced rotational polisher.
I started with a light compound recommended to remove 2000-2500 sand scratches. I had to wet sand with 2000 wet dry paper to get rid of some paint over spray. The polish was not cleaning it up very well. I switched to a swirl remover that was more aggressive, and it was a good combination.
A guy on youtube was giving me all sorts of crap about using two different brands of polish and some nonsense about not being a chemist. I find that to be very disturbing for a trial and error process to determine what works and what don’t.
I would like to see a little discussion about shining up your ride, where you get your supplies, which polishers & pads are working for you. I am looking for simple information to be used on a daily driver, not a high end customized car.
The stuff I am using:
I am getting my supplies from chemicalguys and I also have stuff from Adamspolishes, both work really well. I just ordered a rotary polisher from HarborFreight because it was marked down to $30 and I don’t plan to use it professionally.Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks guys.[/quote]
Back in the old days we used a generic orange compound for lacquer and black ebony on clear.
The paint choice back then was lacquer or enamel.
I was told to rub out a black caddy the first time I used a wheel. Sure enough I burned the top ridge of the fender. I think that is when they gave me my nickname. I never got rid of that one either.Overspray is a real pain, but now you have a better idea about what you have to mask next time.
Understanding the chemistry of the product[s] being used is probably the biggest hurtle involved when messing with finishes.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=86118]This may be one of those situations where ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’. The humidity sensor is not a critical component to the engine’s operation. In fact, I believe it’s only there for the HVAC. In fact, I’d doubt that you’d even know it was bad if you weren’t looking. Actually, not knowing the scanner you’re using, it could easily be a communication issue. Most DIY scanners don’t read body codes.
I could be wrong, but if you’re not experiencing any issues, I would recommend you leave well enough alone.
If you’re looking to learn. Check out these articles I’ve written.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks Eric
I’m checking out the FAQs page and watching some of the videos about what to look for when buying and selling a used car, because I don’t want to mess with the stock settings. I also want to understand better exactly what they are, so I’ll know if I’ve changed any of them or if I’ve gotten the IMA update. The behavior of the system looks like I have had the IMA update, but it’s not listed in the service history.
I’ve run 5 different self tests on the B-Can system and I was more interested in getting the sequence of what I’ve already done in print than I was in finding out about the other protocols in the networked system. ie: F-CAN, ISO and a couple others too. You mentioning body codes clicked and I realized rerunning the self test wouldn’t be accessing the IMA system anyways.[quote=”grg8888″ post=86068]The SOC indicator is a VERY approximate attempt at figuring out the battery charge.
The only REAL and ACCURATE way of figuring out SOC is to use a Hygrometer to measure the density of the battery acid.
The SOC gauge sort of does “dead reckoning”, by assuming a certain level of starting charge and integrating the current in and current out and doing its best to estimate how much of the net input charge is sticking to the battery. All based on very approximate guesses and estimates.[/quote]
Thanks grg
The SOC on my dash is probably even less accurate than an actual SOC built into a charger.
And the SOC’s new behavior of jumping up to full and down to empty without ever showing anything of consequence in the middle of the SOC range has me wondering exactly what’s up with it.
I’m looking around to see if I can save my $2000 battery pack or if I need to replace it.
That coupled with the fact ( as I understand it ) that the Honda IMA update reduces the range of the SOC to 30 – 70 % of capacity from 20 – 80 % of the IMA battery packs capacity.
I’m really still just trying to get a baseline of the cars condition and what are my best options for that condition.[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=86118]This may be one of those situations where ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’. The humidity sensor is not a critical component to the engine’s operation. In fact, I believe it’s only there for the HVAC. In fact, I’d doubt that you’d even know it was bad if you weren’t looking. Actually, not knowing the scanner you’re using, it could easily be a communication issue. Most DIY scanners don’t read body codes.
I could be wrong, but if you’re not experiencing any issues, I would recommend you leave well enough alone.
If you’re looking to learn. Check out these articles I’ve written.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks Eric
I’m checking out the FAQs page and watching some of the videos about what to look for when buying and selling a used car, because I don’t want to mess with the stock settings. I also want to understand better exactly what they are, so I’ll know if I’ve changed any of them or if I’ve gotten the IMA update. The behavior of the system looks like I have had the IMA update, but it’s not listed in the service history.
I’ve run 5 different self tests on the B-Can system and I was more interested in getting the sequence of what I’ve already done in print than I was in finding out about the other protocols in the networked system. ie: F-CAN, ISO and a couple others too. You mentioning body codes clicked and I realized rerunning the self test wouldn’t be accessing the IMA system anyways.[quote=”grg8888″ post=86068]The SOC indicator is a VERY approximate attempt at figuring out the battery charge.
The only REAL and ACCURATE way of figuring out SOC is to use a Hygrometer to measure the density of the battery acid.
The SOC gauge sort of does “dead reckoning”, by assuming a certain level of starting charge and integrating the current in and current out and doing its best to estimate how much of the net input charge is sticking to the battery. All based on very approximate guesses and estimates.[/quote]
Thanks grg
The SOC on my dash is probably even less accurate than an actual SOC built into a charger.
And the SOC’s new behavior of jumping up to full and down to empty without ever showing anything of consequence in the middle of the SOC range has me wondering exactly what’s up with it.
I’m looking around to see if I can save my $2000 battery pack or if I need to replace it.
That coupled with the fact ( as I understand it ) that the Honda IMA update reduces the range of the SOC to 30 – 70 % of capacity from 20 – 80 % of the IMA battery packs capacity.
I’m really still just trying to get a baseline of the cars condition and what are my best options for that condition.I spent most of last week reading and testing,
so this post will probably not be in the exact sequence I followed.I’d taken the car for a few short trips ( less than 25 miles ) last week, while doing the diagnostics
and noticed that the SOC ( State of Charge ) gauge
was both charging and discharging the IMA battery pack faster,
especially when first starting – cold – in the morning.
The SOC would even out and stay charged a bit longer when warm, ( after about 10 miles ).
But the SOC shows recharging to full ( 8 squares ), from empty ( 2 squares )
about twice as fast now ( over the weekend and this week )
as it did before I started running the diagnostic self tests last week.After doing the initial self test ( grabbing the DTC’s ( diagnostic trouble codes ))
and the climate control self test, ( mentioned in post above )
I did the B_CAN self diagnostic again or
cleared the DTC’s than ran the diagnostic self test again.
I ran the tests a couple of times to learn how they worked and what they tested for.After clearing the codes and running the diagnostic again one code cleared
and one code was still in memory.
2968 ( A short in the humidity sensor circuit )So I pulled the dash covers and disconnected the humidity / interior temperature sensor.
( I actually disconnected all the modules in that section of the dash and removed that center section of the dash )
radio/CD, climate control module, 4 way blinker, humidity/temperature sensor, srs passenger air bag off light
and
the odometer trip, temp / average mpg, dash light dimmer button switches in the other dash cover I had to remove first.There was some dust and a few small fibers on the humidity / temperature sensor
that I cleaned with air.
Then I reconnected only the climate control module and the humidity /temperature sensor and ran the climate control self test again.
The – 2968 ( A short in the humidity sensor circuit ) – DTC was gone.( initially I thought I wasn’t seeing the entire climate control self test, it seemed a lot shorter than the description in the manual, but I guess that was me not fully understanding the manuals description.)
The difference was that when running the climate control self test,
when the self test finished the CEL would flash five times, indicating a code was still in memory.
At least that is my current understanding of how this thing works ….
CEL = ( the manual calls it the MIL ( Malfunction Indicator Light/Lamp))I reconnected all the senors, switches and radio/CD, entered the security code than took the car for a 100 mile drive the next day ( yesterday ) and will make a new post in What are you working on? about what happened next ,,,,
I spent most of last week reading and testing,
so this post will probably not be in the exact sequence I followed.I’d taken the car for a few short trips ( less than 25 miles ) last week, while doing the diagnostics
and noticed that the SOC ( State of Charge ) gauge
was both charging and discharging the IMA battery pack faster,
especially when first starting – cold – in the morning.
The SOC would even out and stay charged a bit longer when warm, ( after about 10 miles ).
But the SOC shows recharging to full ( 8 squares ), from empty ( 2 squares )
about twice as fast now ( over the weekend and this week )
as it did before I started running the diagnostic self tests last week.After doing the initial self test ( grabbing the DTC’s ( diagnostic trouble codes ))
and the climate control self test, ( mentioned in post above )
I did the B_CAN self diagnostic again or
cleared the DTC’s than ran the diagnostic self test again.
I ran the tests a couple of times to learn how they worked and what they tested for.After clearing the codes and running the diagnostic again one code cleared
and one code was still in memory.
2968 ( A short in the humidity sensor circuit )So I pulled the dash covers and disconnected the humidity / interior temperature sensor.
( I actually disconnected all the modules in that section of the dash and removed that center section of the dash )
radio/CD, climate control module, 4 way blinker, humidity/temperature sensor, srs passenger air bag off light
and
the odometer trip, temp / average mpg, dash light dimmer button switches in the other dash cover I had to remove first.There was some dust and a few small fibers on the humidity / temperature sensor
that I cleaned with air.
Then I reconnected only the climate control module and the humidity /temperature sensor and ran the climate control self test again.
The – 2968 ( A short in the humidity sensor circuit ) – DTC was gone.( initially I thought I wasn’t seeing the entire climate control self test, it seemed a lot shorter than the description in the manual, but I guess that was me not fully understanding the manuals description.)
The difference was that when running the climate control self test,
when the self test finished the CEL would flash five times, indicating a code was still in memory.
At least that is my current understanding of how this thing works ….
CEL = ( the manual calls it the MIL ( Malfunction Indicator Light/Lamp))I reconnected all the senors, switches and radio/CD, entered the security code than took the car for a 100 mile drive the next day ( yesterday ) and will make a new post in What are you working on? about what happened next ,,,,
A couple of suggestions that may help you.
1: back into the driveway half the time.
( so half the time you put it into drive instead of reverse )
2: take the car for short slow drives a few minutes after starting.
( then let the car sit and finish warming up ).see if the car behaves differently after a week or two.
A couple of suggestions that may help you.
1: back into the driveway half the time.
( so half the time you put it into drive instead of reverse )
2: take the car for short slow drives a few minutes after starting.
( then let the car sit and finish warming up ).see if the car behaves differently after a week or two.
It’s a phase shift. This is the second time I’ve gone through it.
Back when electronics first were introduced it was also hard to keep up.
The HEV and EV’s seem to be creating the same sentiment again.I wanted a FCX in 02 when honda said it was going to be released.
Instead my wife opted for the civic EX because she didn’t like the Insight style
( I think it was still a 2 seater back than as well, anyways ).The dealer has the same excuse currently for the Fit EV
“we’re not going to carry it because of the service retooling expense”
as they had for the FCX in 02.
But in 02 the dealer had little if any knowledge that the FCX even existed,
at least that was my impression on the sales floor.I’m learning a lot about my newer car.
I have too because dealer service is notoriously bad for the model.
And since it’s now out of warranty it seems to me the dealer has very little incentive
to keep the vehicle in good shape.And most customers have little to no clue about which mechanic / garage / dealer did what and or when to their vehicles.
But only does the car work up to their satisfaction or not.A catch22 ?
Generally, it seems to me that having any conscientious objections to the direction(s) of local, regional, national
and international social expectations gets harder by the minute, much less annually.What do we expect?
respect B)
Interested in Toyota / Tesla ?
C-Max solar EV ?
standard oil ?
It’s a phase shift. This is the second time I’ve gone through it.
Back when electronics first were introduced it was also hard to keep up.
The HEV and EV’s seem to be creating the same sentiment again.I wanted a FCX in 02 when honda said it was going to be released.
Instead my wife opted for the civic EX because she didn’t like the Insight style
( I think it was still a 2 seater back than as well, anyways ).The dealer has the same excuse currently for the Fit EV
“we’re not going to carry it because of the service retooling expense”
as they had for the FCX in 02.
But in 02 the dealer had little if any knowledge that the FCX even existed,
at least that was my impression on the sales floor.I’m learning a lot about my newer car.
I have too because dealer service is notoriously bad for the model.
And since it’s now out of warranty it seems to me the dealer has very little incentive
to keep the vehicle in good shape.And most customers have little to no clue about which mechanic / garage / dealer did what and or when to their vehicles.
But only does the car work up to their satisfaction or not.A catch22 ?
Generally, it seems to me that having any conscientious objections to the direction(s) of local, regional, national
and international social expectations gets harder by the minute, much less annually.What do we expect?
respect B)
Interested in Toyota / Tesla ?
C-Max solar EV ?
standard oil ?
The new battery is in and seems to be working OK. scangauge2 showing an average of 13.5V
There is a 12V battery test for parasitic leak while entering sleep mode,
that I will get to in due course, because I still don’t understand all of what’s involved.While looking for reasons why the SOC ( State of Charge ) gauge is misbehaving,
(This morning was the first time in months that the SOC was not at FULL when starting cold in the morning.)
I ran a Diagnostic self test of the B-CAN system ( Self diagnostic Mode 1 ) and the MICU switches ( Self diagnostic Mode 2 ).
MICU == Multiplex Integrated Control SystemI have two codes that neither the actron or the scangauge could read.
2968 ( A short in the humidity sensor circuit )
2993 ( A short in the Thermal protector circuit )
The manual says to tackle each code in numeric sequence. ie 2968 first than 2993
The manual heavily favors using the HDS, but I think I can still so at least some preliminary testing without the HDS.I’m looking at the manual as I typing here and I just found the
climate control – Self-diagnostic functions without HDS
which I’ll now attempt.Last night after I identified the DTC’s I took the car for a drive and for climate control I selected circulate instead of the
default fresh and I switched off the A/C which is turned on by default as well.The new battery is in and seems to be working OK. scangauge2 showing an average of 13.5V
There is a 12V battery test for parasitic leak while entering sleep mode,
that I will get to in due course, because I still don’t understand all of what’s involved.While looking for reasons why the SOC ( State of Charge ) gauge is misbehaving,
(This morning was the first time in months that the SOC was not at FULL when starting cold in the morning.)
I ran a Diagnostic self test of the B-CAN system ( Self diagnostic Mode 1 ) and the MICU switches ( Self diagnostic Mode 2 ).
MICU == Multiplex Integrated Control SystemI have two codes that neither the actron or the scangauge could read.
2968 ( A short in the humidity sensor circuit )
2993 ( A short in the Thermal protector circuit )
The manual says to tackle each code in numeric sequence. ie 2968 first than 2993
The manual heavily favors using the HDS, but I think I can still so at least some preliminary testing without the HDS.I’m looking at the manual as I typing here and I just found the
climate control – Self-diagnostic functions without HDS
which I’ll now attempt.Last night after I identified the DTC’s I took the car for a drive and for climate control I selected circulate instead of the
default fresh and I switched off the A/C which is turned on by default as well.sure enough! now I feel just a bit foolish.
I’ve been scrambling around reading up on everything I can find related to the electrical
system in this car. And I’ve found a lot of things I will be following up on.Well, I pulled the 12V battery out of the car and took it to advanced for a load test. It’s rated 290 CCA
and it tested 170 CCA at 71 degrees / 12.57V . Needles to say I got a replacement.When the replacement is installed ( it’s on maintenance charge now ),
it will really be interesting to see how the systems adjusts to the new 12V source.I’m guessing that the weak battery was a parasitic draw that the DC to DC converter flagged.
Then adjusted by sending more volts to the weak battery up front while taking volts away from the IMA pack in the back.
It’s just a theory and I will be trying to learn how to figure out what actually happened.
I was too stubborn to actually check it when mechanic left me those two big red hints on the battery terminals in Oct. :blush:sure enough! now I feel just a bit foolish.
I’ve been scrambling around reading up on everything I can find related to the electrical
system in this car. And I’ve found a lot of things I will be following up on.Well, I pulled the 12V battery out of the car and took it to advanced for a load test. It’s rated 290 CCA
and it tested 170 CCA at 71 degrees / 12.57V . Needles to say I got a replacement.When the replacement is installed ( it’s on maintenance charge now ),
it will really be interesting to see how the systems adjusts to the new 12V source.I’m guessing that the weak battery was a parasitic draw that the DC to DC converter flagged.
Then adjusted by sending more volts to the weak battery up front while taking volts away from the IMA pack in the back.
It’s just a theory and I will be trying to learn how to figure out what actually happened.
I was too stubborn to actually check it when mechanic left me those two big red hints on the battery terminals in Oct. :blush:I’ve been happy with mine but I’ve driven it like an old lady since it was new.
I wanted to see what kind of mpg I could squeeze out of it using alternative driving techniques.
I’ve heard the modules in this hybrid adjust to different driving styles.
I’ve been interested in knowing just how true that is, and I guess I’m getting even more interested now.I’d also like to get a handle on what the dealer service does to the modules, when done correctly.
It seems to me as if I have gen3 ( 2012 – 13 ) hybrid specs set on my gen2 hybrid.
( does that make sense to anyone else? )I remember commenting to my navigator on a road trip a few years ago,
“I can’t get more then 4 bars of assist.”
to clarify, that was normal I’d never gotten more than 4 bars of assist from the time the car was new
until just a few months ago.
In contrast, these last few months the assist gauge often shows all the bars.
The battery charge gauge ( the one I’m watching the closest ) also changed within the last few months.
And the battery charge gauges is showing bigger change as the weather gets colder. And those differences
are much more pronounced than in past winters when I never noticed any change as the weather got colder
from my assist gauge or from my battery charge level gauge.I’ve been happy with mine but I’ve driven it like an old lady since it was new.
I wanted to see what kind of mpg I could squeeze out of it using alternative driving techniques.
I’ve heard the modules in this hybrid adjust to different driving styles.
I’ve been interested in knowing just how true that is, and I guess I’m getting even more interested now.I’d also like to get a handle on what the dealer service does to the modules, when done correctly.
It seems to me as if I have gen3 ( 2012 – 13 ) hybrid specs set on my gen2 hybrid.
( does that make sense to anyone else? )I remember commenting to my navigator on a road trip a few years ago,
“I can’t get more then 4 bars of assist.”
to clarify, that was normal I’d never gotten more than 4 bars of assist from the time the car was new
until just a few months ago.
In contrast, these last few months the assist gauge often shows all the bars.
The battery charge gauge ( the one I’m watching the closest ) also changed within the last few months.
And the battery charge gauges is showing bigger change as the weather gets colder. And those differences
are much more pronounced than in past winters when I never noticed any change as the weather got colder
from my assist gauge or from my battery charge level gauge.