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[quote=”poppajonzz” post=92661]As I said the P0A7F is exactly what you scan tool says, IMA module deterioration. This means that your high voltage IMA battery is deteriorating. The system is constantly monitoring the SOC of the battery, and can tell when the battery is performing out of specification or radically.
If you check for DTCs and P1586 is not also appearing with P0A7F, clear the DTCs. Start the engine. At this point you’re suppose to have a Honda special diagnostic computer to tell you the exact SOC of the vehicle. Since this is not possible for the DIYer all you can do is hold the engine at about 3,500rpm and wait for the SOC gauge to read at about 70%. With an old battery this level might not be possible. Check for DTCs again. If P0A7F is back, and is not accompanied by P1586, you do need a replacement IMA battery. This is an extremely dangerous high voltage battery that you should not attempt to service yourself. Even on a malfunctioning battery the voltage CAN AND WILL HURT OR KILL YOU! At this point a dealership will have to replace the battery for you to achieve proper hybrid assist.
I hope the information I have provided proves to be helpful.[/quote]
Are you saying that if I follow the DIYs instructions and the IMA system indicator and or the P0A7F DTC don’t show up again then it is an intermittent issue?
And also, If I do get the P0A7F code again my only alternative is to bring the car to a Honda Dealer because of the dangerous nature of servicing the IMA systems?My questions are not in any way directed towards influencing any DIYs to attempt to service any IMA components, but rather to ask you to think about what you are recommending the DIY to do when they are confronted with any of these IMA problems.
I think understanding how any one dealers service dept handles these issues would be helpful.
ie:
Which module is used between the HDS and the vehicle.
Which procedures are followed when using the HDS
What data is collected while using the HDS
And what data, if any was collected, is returned to the DIYs.thanks for understanding.
[quote=”poppajonzz” post=92661]As I said the P0A7F is exactly what you scan tool says, IMA module deterioration. This means that your high voltage IMA battery is deteriorating. The system is constantly monitoring the SOC of the battery, and can tell when the battery is performing out of specification or radically.
If you check for DTCs and P1586 is not also appearing with P0A7F, clear the DTCs. Start the engine. At this point you’re suppose to have a Honda special diagnostic computer to tell you the exact SOC of the vehicle. Since this is not possible for the DIYer all you can do is hold the engine at about 3,500rpm and wait for the SOC gauge to read at about 70%. With an old battery this level might not be possible. Check for DTCs again. If P0A7F is back, and is not accompanied by P1586, you do need a replacement IMA battery. This is an extremely dangerous high voltage battery that you should not attempt to service yourself. Even on a malfunctioning battery the voltage CAN AND WILL HURT OR KILL YOU! At this point a dealership will have to replace the battery for you to achieve proper hybrid assist.
I hope the information I have provided proves to be helpful.[/quote]
Are you saying that if I follow the DIYs instructions and the IMA system indicator and or the P0A7F DTC don’t show up again then it is an intermittent issue?
And also, If I do get the P0A7F code again my only alternative is to bring the car to a Honda Dealer because of the dangerous nature of servicing the IMA systems?My questions are not in any way directed towards influencing any DIYs to attempt to service any IMA components, but rather to ask you to think about what you are recommending the DIY to do when they are confronted with any of these IMA problems.
I think understanding how any one dealers service dept handles these issues would be helpful.
ie:
Which module is used between the HDS and the vehicle.
Which procedures are followed when using the HDS
What data is collected while using the HDS
And what data, if any was collected, is returned to the DIYs.thanks for understanding.
My ideas are not mainstream and will probably be offensive to many luxury minded people
who want creature comforts built into their vehicles.
This is probably because the car companies build into their vehicles what the people who buy them want,
and the people who buy the cars usually take what is mass produced and available.Anyways,
I’d much rather have a car that I could pre-heat or pre-cool both cabin and motor before driving,
without having to burn more gas to do it. Especially for the daily use case of the car.I’m no stranger to the many different types of drivers on the roads, so I try not to be judgmental
about others preferences. I do what I can to figure out what I can do as an individual to reduce my
impact on the environment and still live as comfortably and peacefully as I can manage.I doubt the 1% and even the 10% are too concerned about the environment we all share, why should they be? Big money science says there is no problem to big for them fix given enough time.
But I’m still dismayed that I could not buy a production car out of detroit, 10 years ago, of 15 gran
that gets 100 mpg.
Pre heating and cooling might also win a few customers.Will it take 75 gran to buy one with those features? 100?
My ideas are not mainstream and will probably be offensive to many luxury minded people
who want creature comforts built into their vehicles.
This is probably because the car companies build into their vehicles what the people who buy them want,
and the people who buy the cars usually take what is mass produced and available.Anyways,
I’d much rather have a car that I could pre-heat or pre-cool both cabin and motor before driving,
without having to burn more gas to do it. Especially for the daily use case of the car.I’m no stranger to the many different types of drivers on the roads, so I try not to be judgmental
about others preferences. I do what I can to figure out what I can do as an individual to reduce my
impact on the environment and still live as comfortably and peacefully as I can manage.I doubt the 1% and even the 10% are too concerned about the environment we all share, why should they be? Big money science says there is no problem to big for them fix given enough time.
But I’m still dismayed that I could not buy a production car out of detroit, 10 years ago, of 15 gran
that gets 100 mpg.
Pre heating and cooling might also win a few customers.Will it take 75 gran to buy one with those features? 100?
Sure, I’d love to get some feedback on the IMA system
and more specifically the IMA battery issues.I’ve been working hard trying to understand how to tackle the IMA code with what I have
on hand to work with. Which isn’t much, at least as far as the IMA battery is concerned,
although I’m looking at DIY skills and tools for the job.In the meanwhile I’ve been monitoring the cars behavior and trying to use the cars systems
to work with the problem instead of against it, while waiting until I can nail down
why the IMA battery pack is throwing the code.It’s been an interesting two months of ups and downs since my last post about this project. 😉
Sure, I’d love to get some feedback on the IMA system
and more specifically the IMA battery issues.I’ve been working hard trying to understand how to tackle the IMA code with what I have
on hand to work with. Which isn’t much, at least as far as the IMA battery is concerned,
although I’m looking at DIY skills and tools for the job.In the meanwhile I’ve been monitoring the cars behavior and trying to use the cars systems
to work with the problem instead of against it, while waiting until I can nail down
why the IMA battery pack is throwing the code.It’s been an interesting two months of ups and downs since my last post about this project. 😉
Stock 89 Kaw Ex 500 White Pearl / Gold stripes
I keep trying to get the original black pipes repainted high heat white with crylon color gold stipes,
to match up with the OEM stripes just above them.
I must have 5 or 10 coats on those pipes already.Stock 89 Kaw Ex 500 White Pearl / Gold stripes
I keep trying to get the original black pipes repainted high heat white with crylon color gold stipes,
to match up with the OEM stripes just above them.
I must have 5 or 10 coats on those pipes already.“hammer the wields smooth” OK, here let me try that ….
I can stretch metal real easy using only a hammer and a dolly,
shrinking a panel back into place after I’ve stretched it, not so easy.
Thanks for the vids …..
nice work all around.“hammer the wields smooth” OK, here let me try that ….
I can stretch metal real easy using only a hammer and a dolly,
shrinking a panel back into place after I’ve stretched it, not so easy.
Thanks for the vids …..
nice work all around.[quote=”dollman0″ post=64228]I have been watching detailing videos for a while and invested into a Porter Cable orbital buffer 7424XP I think. Its really slow but for not having any buffing experience I did not want to burn the paint with a forced rotational polisher.
I started with a light compound recommended to remove 2000-2500 sand scratches. I had to wet sand with 2000 wet dry paper to get rid of some paint over spray. The polish was not cleaning it up very well. I switched to a swirl remover that was more aggressive, and it was a good combination.
A guy on youtube was giving me all sorts of crap about using two different brands of polish and some nonsense about not being a chemist. I find that to be very disturbing for a trial and error process to determine what works and what don’t.
I would like to see a little discussion about shining up your ride, where you get your supplies, which polishers & pads are working for you. I am looking for simple information to be used on a daily driver, not a high end customized car.
The stuff I am using:
I am getting my supplies from chemicalguys and I also have stuff from Adamspolishes, both work really well. I just ordered a rotary polisher from HarborFreight because it was marked down to $30 and I don’t plan to use it professionally.Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks guys.[/quote]
Back in the old days we used a generic orange compound for lacquer and black ebony on clear.
The paint choice back then was lacquer or enamel.
I was told to rub out a black caddy the first time I used a wheel. Sure enough I burned the top ridge of the fender. I think that is when they gave me my nickname. I never got rid of that one either.Overspray is a real pain, but now you have a better idea about what you have to mask next time.
Understanding the chemistry of the product[s] being used is probably the biggest hurtle involved when messing with finishes.