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found this thread right after watching ETCG1 Vintage parts video.
Nice images wysetech[quote=”wysetech” post=63566]Yeah…….Let’s blame Henry Ford for flat rate. LoL
Thanks for your comments.[/quote]
heheh
I’ll bet that is also why people in Detroit generally respond differently to the word satisfactory then people in most other parts of the country do.Does yours have the cockpit cover too?
We used to have one of those when I was real young. I might be able to dig out a slide or two of the boat if I can find one in my dads old stash of mostly railroads of the world pics. IIRC it was traded in on or sold for a new AMF sailfish for one of my sisters. But by the time I was in my early teens the class had gotten so small that I was the only one in the class for the last race week I sailed in. Sunfish which were similar, grew to be a huge class with near a hundred boats in the class for many sailboat races back in the olden days.
Our snipe was old when I was young, so I’m guessing early fifties possibly for a build date, maybe even older than that.Now, after double checking my spelling I remembered my sister complaining that there were no longer any other snipes for her to race with during race week. And the sailfish was one of the early fiberglass boats that were much easier to maintain and and they were getting really popular around that time.
One of the best ways I remember to gauge the boats efficiency is by how high into the wind you can point her and still make headway. Another is to see how well she planes when running downwind or on a reach.
Although one of the most important aspects of the boat is how dry you can keep the bilges
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BilgeIf she hasn’t been in the water for a while the joints below the waterline open up and it takes a while for them to swell one she gets back in the water, a day or two at most.
Does yours have the cockpit cover too?
We used to have one of those when I was real young. I might be able to dig out a slide or two of the boat if I can find one in my dads old stash of mostly railroads of the world pics. IIRC it was traded in on or sold for a new AMF sailfish for one of my sisters. But by the time I was in my early teens the class had gotten so small that I was the only one in the class for the last race week I sailed in. Sunfish which were similar, grew to be a huge class with near a hundred boats in the class for many sailboat races back in the olden days.
Our snipe was old when I was young, so I’m guessing early fifties possibly for a build date, maybe even older than that.Now, after double checking my spelling I remembered my sister complaining that there were no longer any other snipes for her to race with during race week. And the sailfish was one of the early fiberglass boats that were much easier to maintain and and they were getting really popular around that time.
One of the best ways I remember to gauge the boats efficiency is by how high into the wind you can point her and still make headway. Another is to see how well she planes when running downwind or on a reach.
Although one of the most important aspects of the boat is how dry you can keep the bilges
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BilgeIf she hasn’t been in the water for a while the joints below the waterline open up and it takes a while for them to swell one she gets back in the water, a day or two at most.
Hi Eric,
I know you are busy, I see all the threads you are reading and posting to.Thanks for taking a look at my latest project and providing me with your experience.
I’m breaking new ground with this cleaning EGR passages thing.
First times around for me are slow and usually painfully so.
I headed your warnings as I’m letting the paint dry on some of the old rusty brackets I’ve pulled so far.
I also had to drill out a broken bolt in one of them.
Your video on how to get out broken bolts was on my mind as set the center notch and drilled the pilot hole. Eventually the broken bolt came out with threads of the nut still intact.
Tomorrow I’ll check the top bolts on the intake, paint the special two and reassemble what I’ve taken apart so far.
I have 500 lbs of concrete mix in the trunk ( keeping it dry ) I have to get down to repair the corner of the garage slab.
After that I can tackle the lower section of the intake and get my bearings there as well.Hope you had some fun over the holiday and was not stuck doing chores all day long.
Hi Eric,
I know you are busy, I see all the threads you are reading and posting to.Thanks for taking a look at my latest project and providing me with your experience.
I’m breaking new ground with this cleaning EGR passages thing.
First times around for me are slow and usually painfully so.
I headed your warnings as I’m letting the paint dry on some of the old rusty brackets I’ve pulled so far.
I also had to drill out a broken bolt in one of them.
Your video on how to get out broken bolts was on my mind as set the center notch and drilled the pilot hole. Eventually the broken bolt came out with threads of the nut still intact.
Tomorrow I’ll check the top bolts on the intake, paint the special two and reassemble what I’ve taken apart so far.
I have 500 lbs of concrete mix in the trunk ( keeping it dry ) I have to get down to repair the corner of the garage slab.
After that I can tackle the lower section of the intake and get my bearings there as well.Hope you had some fun over the holiday and was not stuck doing chores all day long.
I got it out. Not the way I was hoping to, but it’s out. two injectors popped off the rail, oh well, it’s an 02
next time I hope I don’t have to peel the valve cover off to see what I’m missing.
I got it out. Not the way I was hoping to, but it’s out. two injectors popped off the rail, oh well, it’s an 02
next time I hope I don’t have to peel the valve cover off to see what I’m missing.
thanks for the suggestions 🙂
[quote=”quickNpainless” post=102315]generally the pcv valve should just screw out. I’m pretty sure the easiest way to get to it is from the top (maybe use a mirror so you can see it better). You “shouldn’t” have to remove the throttle body to do this. pcv valves are cheap enough that you generally just replace them. I’ve never actually tried to clean one.[/quote]excellent, I’ll take a look and see if I can wiggle my down in there.
[quote=”quickNpainless” post=102315]unfortunately your egr valve is electronic so there’s limited cleaning that you can actually do here. If it doesn’t work after your cleaning, you need to replace it. It’s also possible that the electronic solenoid in the egr is actually at fault here in which case you’ll need to replace the egr.[/quote]Yep, I took it apart as far as I could and lubed the piston so it at least moved some but I had a bear getting the nut behind the valve off. No socket I owned would fit properly on it. I finally got if off with a craftsman 10mm open end but it was stripped pretty bad after all my attempts at it. So I ordered the two nuts and the gasket just in case.
My egr passages were filled with carbon. I tried to get it out till the cleaner ran clear, but after waiting an hour or so and flushing again I got more carbon deposits, every time.
edit: I even taped an old piece of air filter on the throttlebody and turned the motor over with the valve off. It sucked in one hole and blowout the other from what I could see afterwards, but I still got more carbon out of there after that too.[quote=”quickNpainless” post=102315]Also, when you took the throttle body off to clean it, did you replace the gasket or at least put some silicone around it to keep it from leaking?[/quote]
hell no 🙁The throttlebody was a after thought while I had the egr off for repairs. I followed gearwrenches forgotten tuneup mods – and I got most everything at least once over except the pcv.
I felt even back in the fall I would need to do it again to get at the stuff I missed the first time around.And the other code turned out to be the canister shut valve. I tried like hell to reuse the canister.
I guess you know where that lead to. 🙂thanks for the suggestions 🙂
[quote=”quickNpainless” post=102315]generally the pcv valve should just screw out. I’m pretty sure the easiest way to get to it is from the top (maybe use a mirror so you can see it better). You “shouldn’t” have to remove the throttle body to do this. pcv valves are cheap enough that you generally just replace them. I’ve never actually tried to clean one.[/quote]excellent, I’ll take a look and see if I can wiggle my down in there.
[quote=”quickNpainless” post=102315]unfortunately your egr valve is electronic so there’s limited cleaning that you can actually do here. If it doesn’t work after your cleaning, you need to replace it. It’s also possible that the electronic solenoid in the egr is actually at fault here in which case you’ll need to replace the egr.[/quote]Yep, I took it apart as far as I could and lubed the piston so it at least moved some but I had a bear getting the nut behind the valve off. No socket I owned would fit properly on it. I finally got if off with a craftsman 10mm open end but it was stripped pretty bad after all my attempts at it. So I ordered the two nuts and the gasket just in case.
My egr passages were filled with carbon. I tried to get it out till the cleaner ran clear, but after waiting an hour or so and flushing again I got more carbon deposits, every time.
edit: I even taped an old piece of air filter on the throttlebody and turned the motor over with the valve off. It sucked in one hole and blowout the other from what I could see afterwards, but I still got more carbon out of there after that too.[quote=”quickNpainless” post=102315]Also, when you took the throttle body off to clean it, did you replace the gasket or at least put some silicone around it to keep it from leaking?[/quote]
hell no 🙁The throttlebody was a after thought while I had the egr off for repairs. I followed gearwrenches forgotten tuneup mods – and I got most everything at least once over except the pcv.
I felt even back in the fall I would need to do it again to get at the stuff I missed the first time around.And the other code turned out to be the canister shut valve. I tried like hell to reuse the canister.
I guess you know where that lead to. 🙂[quote=”poppajonzz” post=92822]The Honda dealer would use their Honda specific scan tool to see the SOC. To diagnose this concern they would do the procedure above. There is no real data to be collected, and only the trouble codes are looked at. The IMA system has it’s own self diag that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system. When it decides the battery is no longer stable it will apply code P0A7F. The only other code that would come up to question the diag of the IMA system would be code P1586 which is, “Battery Current Sensor Signal Malfunction”. If P0A7F keeps coming back without P1586 also being present it means you need a new IMA battery to return to full assist.
“Which module is used between the HDS and the vehicle.”
Honda uses a scantool specially designed for Hondas.Which procedures are followed when using the HDS; What data is collected while using the HDS
When using the HDS to diagnose a bad IMA battery the main resource is DTCs and SOC. The IMA system has an on-board system that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system.
What data is collected while using the HDSAnd what data, if any was collected, is returned to the DIYs.
Due to the dangerous repair procedures I am not sure what information would be given to the customer other than the DTCs, and a recommendation. It would be a case by case item, and very dependent on the service writer.Sorry for my harsh views towards self service of the IMA system. While in school they actually show a video of the exact path the electricity will take to your heart, and kill you… They put the fear of god in you! My recommendation when it comes to hybrid systems is calling your local dealership, and seeing if they can cut you a deal on diag time.
Best Wishes[/quote]
just a couple of quick comments and thanks for the explanations.The reason I don’t like using the quick and dirty remove the negative battery terminal to clear the code is that it clears everything. Same if using a generic scan tool to clear a code. It clears everything.
No SOC no freeze data no body codes no nuttin.Using the HDS and one of the 4 modules dealers use between the HDS and the vehicle, 2 of those modules are depreciated, the HDS can clear specific codes and leave codes of the other 5 systems
as they are while preserving freeze data.And SOC is data, but it is never shown to a customer, at least that I’ve ever heard of.
So what are the voltage limits of SOC? The IMA light, P0A7F and P1586 ?
Wouldn’t P1586 indicate something other than Pack Deterioration anyways?I’ve been to the local dealer, a lot and for a long time, and have seen many changes.
I was not looking forward to having to service this vehicle myself,
but I’m also not interested in a circle jerk with the dealer about out of warranty services,
MVCI or no MVCI. Lots more where that came from so I hope we can move on from here.Electricians training stresses electrical safety too for obvious reasons.
It’s not a good idea to mess around with stuff one doesn’t understand.[quote=”poppajonzz” post=92822]The Honda dealer would use their Honda specific scan tool to see the SOC. To diagnose this concern they would do the procedure above. There is no real data to be collected, and only the trouble codes are looked at. The IMA system has it’s own self diag that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system. When it decides the battery is no longer stable it will apply code P0A7F. The only other code that would come up to question the diag of the IMA system would be code P1586 which is, “Battery Current Sensor Signal Malfunction”. If P0A7F keeps coming back without P1586 also being present it means you need a new IMA battery to return to full assist.
“Which module is used between the HDS and the vehicle.”
Honda uses a scantool specially designed for Hondas.Which procedures are followed when using the HDS; What data is collected while using the HDS
When using the HDS to diagnose a bad IMA battery the main resource is DTCs and SOC. The IMA system has an on-board system that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system.
What data is collected while using the HDSAnd what data, if any was collected, is returned to the DIYs.
Due to the dangerous repair procedures I am not sure what information would be given to the customer other than the DTCs, and a recommendation. It would be a case by case item, and very dependent on the service writer.Sorry for my harsh views towards self service of the IMA system. While in school they actually show a video of the exact path the electricity will take to your heart, and kill you… They put the fear of god in you! My recommendation when it comes to hybrid systems is calling your local dealership, and seeing if they can cut you a deal on diag time.
Best Wishes[/quote]
just a couple of quick comments and thanks for the explanations.The reason I don’t like using the quick and dirty remove the negative battery terminal to clear the code is that it clears everything. Same if using a generic scan tool to clear a code. It clears everything.
No SOC no freeze data no body codes no nuttin.Using the HDS and one of the 4 modules dealers use between the HDS and the vehicle, 2 of those modules are depreciated, the HDS can clear specific codes and leave codes of the other 5 systems
as they are while preserving freeze data.And SOC is data, but it is never shown to a customer, at least that I’ve ever heard of.
So what are the voltage limits of SOC? The IMA light, P0A7F and P1586 ?
Wouldn’t P1586 indicate something other than Pack Deterioration anyways?I’ve been to the local dealer, a lot and for a long time, and have seen many changes.
I was not looking forward to having to service this vehicle myself,
but I’m also not interested in a circle jerk with the dealer about out of warranty services,
MVCI or no MVCI. Lots more where that came from so I hope we can move on from here.Electricians training stresses electrical safety too for obvious reasons.
It’s not a good idea to mess around with stuff one doesn’t understand.
