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I think you may be thinking in the right direction with fuel supply. You can check your fuel pump performance with a fuel pressure gauge. You might also start by replacing the fuel filter. It’s not expensive and probably due and could solve the problem without any more extensive diagnosis.
Check the primary circuit to the starter relay with multimeter or listen to it when someone tried to start the vehicle. If you hear the relay click the problem is in the cable to your starter. But most likely it won’t click. I suspect that the problem is in the primary circuit. The most common failure would be the park neutral switch or the safety neutral switch if it’s a manual tranny. Then it could also be the relay itself.
The TCM is integrated with the PCM and is located on the left side of firewall directly behind your brake fluid fill cap.
I’m thinking you have a bad brake hose to your front left front caliper. I would strongly suggest that you replace hosed on both sides. As far as the hard pedal, I would look for a vacuum supply problem to your booster.
Sounds more like worn motor mounts rather than bearings. I would have it properly diagnosed before you just slap parts at it.
With the age of this car I would normally go with an aftermarket cat. But in my experience Honda’s are very sensitive on catylis effeciencies. I would recommend the dealer cat.
The EGR bolts to a bracket. The bracket holds a tube that goes into the intake and takes a 90 degree turn. That’s where the clog was. The first time I went into this I neglected to look at this. Too much in a hurry with time restraints. Would have saved some trouble if I would have taken this next step the first time. Thanks for all the great input. Thankfully I didn’t have to diagnose the circuitry, but it is great info for future again many thanks.
Thank you Richard. That is a tremendous help. I think that article combined with what I’ve previously learned should cover every aspect to find the problem. My only problem now is I just left my scanner 30 minutes away, forgetting about this project. I have a van window to replace. Going to be a busy night. And I have to find the correct diagram. 😖
AC repair can be quite expensive. It may not be wise to replace parts just to find out you didn’t need to. This should be fully diagnosed before any repair attempts are made. Pressure must be checked with a gage.
It is normal for fractional engine speed variation when applying or releasing brakes, but if you are suspecting a vacuum leak it’s always good to check.
Anti lock brakes are activated by signals from your wheel speed sensors. For differant reasons theses sensors cannot report speeds under 5 mph. Newer and different vehicles have different cut out speeds. If sensors do not provide a signal or the ABS module refuses to accept a signal within certain parameters antilock brakes will not activate. All this to say that it is perfectly normal for no antilock braking at low speeds. From 70 to 0 on hard braking your vehicle did axactly as it was designed to do. If you want to have more reassurance, find a dirt road, at about 25 mpg, do an emergency stop and you will find the same behavior.
Sorry for not replying. Site seemed to not let me in several times. I replaced wires from sensor to module. Problem still persists. I think we came to the conclusion that it was a bad connector or faulty module. I’ll try to switch out connector before winter. If that doesn’t work, I’ll disable system thanks for help.